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NA-T piggyback


HadeS

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Hi.

 

I'm split up between 1jz swap and Dazzi NA-T kit. If I would go to NA-t way what piggyback would I need to buy to run it? Will it needs to be mapped after? How much will it cost to set up? I would not like to spend to much money but obviously enought to make it reliable.

 

Regards Michael.

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Piggyback ECU and mapping would be required. Depending on what power you want to run you could also upgrade the injectors. It is sometimes better to do it all in the one go so that all you need is 1 mapping session :)

 

Best to pick a mapper and then ask them what piggyback to buy. Most people on here prefer Ryan but there are quite a few other options if you require someone more local.

 

I would guess £500 for the fitting & mapping plus whatever the standalone costs. If you budgeted 1k you should be fine.

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I'm not aiming high.

http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=207143

All what I would like to change or add it's intelcooler. Boost 9-11 psi as it is.

TBH I have absolutely no idea where to buy piggyback or anything what would make my ECU work better. Is there anything what I might need more?

 

Possibly the clutch. Not sure what power N/A clutches can take.

 

As long as you aren't going over the 400 mark you should be fine. Saying that I don't know what injectors are in the N/A. They will be the deciding factor really.

 

There was a map2ecu for sale with a boost solenoid...

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=206592&highlight=map+ecu

 

That along with the kit, mapping, intercooler and a bit of fabrication & fitting should see the job done.

 

How much is the 1JZ transplant costing?

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If your running base boost then you can get away with no piggyback but don't expect to run more than 9psi on a stock headgasket. Injectors will also limit you, will max them out very quickly. Stock NA clutch won't hold much so you would need an uprated 1.

There's lots more I can go through but I'm to tired. Feel free to PM me

Edited by Kirk (see edit history)
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If your running base boost then you can get away with no piggyback but don't expect to run more than 9psi on a stock headgasket. Injectors will also limit you, will max them out very quickly. Stock NA clutch won't hold much so you would need an uprated 1.

There's lots more I can go through but I'm to tired. Feel free to PM me

 

Eh? No ECU on base boost? What is base boost? Any increase in O2 would require an increase in fuelling surely?

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ypu will need a piggy back , i use a greddy emanage , this allows you to up the fuel to kerrp the correcy afr and rtemobve the boost cut limiter , an na will not alloe any posotive boost it wilkl cut the fiuel so you need a piggy back thwat will syop thid

 

Please refrain from posting technical info when drunk/high :D

Edited by Ian C (see edit history)
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So does the piggyback is ready needed? Do any of you been running turbo kit with no piggyback?

 

From the digging around I did it seems there are varying opinions. Apparently due to the MAP & MAP sensors on N/A's you can actually run a little boost and the ECU will compensate after 4.5k by throwing in fuel and pulling the timing. This won't be running ideally to say the least but it IS possible.

 

I also found out that the N/A only has 220cc Injectors. This is going to be pretty useless when it comes to adding a blower.

 

Basically you need to get the figure you wish to achieve in your head right now. You then need to decide if you want to do it 100% safely and properly or if you want to do it cheaply. Cheap route gets you about 260-280hp (300 on full duty with the injectors.. not good) and most likely you will have fueling issues at one point.

 

The expensive and safe route involves a piggy back ECU, larger injectors and mapping. It also involves a fair bit more cash though.

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Also just to confirm when I had my old kit I was running 9psi and the stock injectors were at 60% with a afr of 10.0 on full boost.

 

That's good going. What power was that running? I was only quoting what I was told elsewhere lol. I'm amazed that 220cc injectors can get 300hp but 440's can't get 600.

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So does the piggyback is ready needed? Do any of you been running turbo kit with no piggyback?

 

Converting an NA engine to forced induction 100% needs one. The ECU and pressure/MAF sensors that come with an NA engine has no concept of positive boost pressure so absolutely will not be able to fuel for it.

 

As a side note it probably won't have much spare capacity in the fuel injectors to fuel for the extra air coming in, as they will be OEM sized for an NA application. So, for any significant boost/power gain, you'll need larger injectors. Once you have those you need to be able to trim their duty cycles back when not on boost anyway, or it'll overfuel, stall, run badly, or not even start. So yep. Piggyback would be required for that reason as well.

 

-Ian

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Also just to confirm when I had my old kit I was running 9psi and the stock injectors were at 60% with a afr of 10.0 on full boost.

 

That's significantly more headroom than stock 440cc injectors on a stock TT at the same boost. I don't buy that at all.

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NA best power is at 12.7:1 AFRs or thereabouts, so the NA will be mapped to that under WOT.

 

9psi of boost is 60% more air, so figure in 60% more fuel to start with. 10:1 AFR is 27% richer than 12.7:1. So 160%*1.27 = 203%. So you need double the fuel of the NA engine for 9psi of boost at 10:1AFRs.

 

Your numbers mean the injectors in NA Supras should only ever run 30% duty under maximum load :blink: Taking the 220cc size figure (I'm not sure if that's right but we can run with it), that would make them ridiculously oversized and that Toyota should have fitted 66cc injectors. Nope, definitely not buying it :) You in fact would need (220*2) = 440cc injectors to run 9psi of boost at 10:1 AFRs. Numbers which should sound very familiar to stock TT owners...

 

Were you running crazy static fuel pressures?

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