Replacing front Lower-Control Arm (LCA / Wishbone)

Here's the new wishbone. I was advised that the big bolts (they're actually called Camber Adjustment Cams) would likely be ceased in the bush's collar, so I ordered replacements of those too, as you can see.

I also ordered a replacement castle-nut for the balljoint. The bag of black screws are just self-tapping trim screws - unrelated to this job.

16:09. Probably not a good time to be venturing into unchartered territory.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/1.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/2.JPG

I jacked the car up. I really do need a proper ramp.

Don't forget to use an axle stand.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/3.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/4.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/5.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/6.JPG

Here we can see the offending control arm. In my case the balljoint is buggered - MOT fail. The bushes are built into the arms too and some people are replacing the arm for this reason.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/7.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/8.JPG

Here we can see the drop-links. They need disconnecting from the LCA. This will usually be a show stopper. Time to get the angle-grinder out and replace the drop-links with new ones.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/9.JPG

If your drop-links are as easy as this to remove then you're very lucky indeed.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/10.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/11.JPG

Using a mahooooosive breaker-bar, I undid the nut from the right-hand camber-adjustment cam. I took a picture here so I could remember how it was aligned.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/12.JPG

By looking at the new cam, I could see that it isn't a straight bar and wouldn't come out without removing this link-thing.

Next time round I would replace this peice, as mine is very coroded and the bolts were tough to remove - they were coming out but very stiffly and I was afraid they would shear.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/19.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/20.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/13.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/14.JPG

Removing the left-hand cam was a major stopping point for me. I went to my grandads off in search of a blow torch, wondering how I would heat the bush-collar and not the cam itself.

Two hours later I returned with a bigger hammer.

Little hammer was useless. Big hammer became my Tool of the Day.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/21.JPG

Thank you Big hammer.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/22.JPG

Here I am slowly removing that link-bar thing that was in the way.. like I said there is quite a bit of corrosion on both the item itself and the nuts & bolts. Lots of Penetrating Lubricant helped.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/23.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/24.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/26.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/27.JPG

Big hammer hardly even had to touch this one (the right-hand cam)

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/28.JPG

Here is the offending ball-joint. This was an absolute BITCH to get out. Big hammer struggled a bit with this one.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/17.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/18.JPG

God damn it. ARRRRG. Mother hookin' god damn penetrate THIS bitch

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/29.JPG

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/30.JPG

Thank you, big hammer.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/31.JPG

Yep, it really did take that long. I did disappear for two hours in search of a blow torch though

http://www.css-networks.com/lca/35.JPG

Lastly, look at your car head on and laugh at how much camber you've just given your new corner

(visit alignment place ASAP)

Great write up mate!

I'm going to be doing the same thing in the next month, this is very helpful indeed (Looks like I will need to buy a BIG hammer first )

The underside of your car seems to be caked in crap, it makes mine look like new! How many miles has yours covered ?

Great write up mate!

aw thanks I'm chuffed that it's of use

The underside of your car seems to be caked in crap, it makes mine look like new! How many miles has yours covered ?

Ah, I didn't mention this one.. did you notice the 'go faster streaks' of mud behind my front wheels?

TomTom sent me down the WORST road I have ever seen in ages. My heart sinks when I think about it now. My phone was out of juice, my car was almost out of juice, and I needed petrol. The road was 1-cars-width wide, with farm-soil either side, and craters taking up whole halves of the 'road'. I was shitting it. Car scraping on allsorts. I ventured on anyway. With 300yds to go 'til the mainland, the nuclear-damaged concrete stopped and I was left facing mud. Couldn't possibly reverse through the craters, couldn't turn around. Had to carry on. Thank god for LSD's.

anyway.. that, plus the fact that mines a UK car (undersealed), and it's done ~80,000 miles

Great post, really nice pics!

The "Big Hammer" is so much better!

I would've use copper grease when putting it back together so that if you ever had to take them out again, it would be soooooo much easier.

Excellent write-up carl0s

Copper grease does indeed rule!

I would've use copper grease when putting it back together so that if you ever had to take them out again, it would be soooooo much easier.

Yeah definately a good idea. I looked for some at my grandad's but we couldn't find any - my uncle had some but it was at work. Weak excuses I know

Photos attached of new Lower and Upper arms attached for reference.

Available at VERY good prices from here

thanks Carlos

most helpful - did you remove the front bumper, or were they removed without taking it off??

Nice one Carlos, very useful reference.

Excellent write-up, Carlos.

So is there no way of replacing just the bushes on these?

So is there no way of replacing just the bushes on these?

You can replace just the bushes with say TRD ones (see details HERE), but the only way to replace the ball joints is to fit complete new arms.

thanks Carlos

 

most helpful - did you remove the front bumper, or were they removed without taking it off??

All I removed was the wheel, and also that link-bar thing (I must find out what that's called..) - the very corroded one.

All I removed was the wheel, and also that link-bar thing (I must find out what that's called..) - the very corroded one.

ok, its just that the two bolts look like they will require at least the inner wing removing to be able to get the front one out...

ok, its just that the two bolts look like they will require at least the inner wing removing to be able to get the front one out...

Nope

Removing the Upper Control Arm (the aluminium one) requires removal of the wheel-arch liner, but that's all I can think really. The LCA was straightforward.

If you look at the pics, you'll see that both bolts come into the centre - the RH one comes out to the left, and the LH one comes out to the right.. have a look at the pics and you'll see what I mean.

good write up Carlos, if were you though i'de invest in one of them underseal sprayers from Halfords and blast the hell out of the underside of the car, they make a right mess but do the business

how much did this cost you ????

i didnt have the tools or the balls to do it ?????

tt steve

Very important addition

You mustn't tighten the main nuts (those on the camber-adjustment cams) with the car in the air. They must be tightened with the suspension settled, else you risk having your bushes torn to shreds as soon as you drop the car.

What I did was to jack the car back up again from the wishbone itself, so that it was sat near enough straight, and then tightened them. I was also able to adjust the camber with it like this, and now have the car very close to how it was before.

To adjust camber on the RH bush (the one nearest the engine), you need to temporarily remove "that link-bar thing" so that you can get a 24mm socket over the nut, unless you have a slim 24mm spanner to hand.

how much did this cost you ????

i didnt have the tools or the balls to do it ?????

 

tt steve

heh. The LCA was £158 + vat from CJ's contact (Steve Manley at Inchcape Toyota, Oxford), the camber-adjustment cams were under £8 each, and the castle nut was 87p. All +vat.

Only tools I used were a 14mm ring-spanner & 5mm hex/allen-key for the drop-links, and a small & large breaker bar with various sockets from 14mm to 24mm.

And a jack & axle stands of course.

was it neccesary to replace the camber adjustment cams

i looked today while replacing my suspension, i can see now its a farily straightforward job

its the upper mount that may require front inner wheelarch removal

was it neccesary to replace the camber adjustment cams

 

i looked today while replacing my suspension, i can see now its a farily straightforward job

 

its the upper mount that may require front inner wheelarch removal

No, but I just did it for the hell of it. Yeah the upper requires the arch liner taking out.