I guess I'll do a rebuild too....

Ok, since the knocking upon start-up has begun and the car has a fair few (160,00 kms) I've decided to join the club and rebuild my engine. The big ends have gone so its going for a full refresh. It came out yesterday. I started work on it around lunch time on my own then a friend came to help at three-ish and it was out by around half eight, so I was quite happy with that. I then spent today ringing round for the bolts to mount it on the engine stand. For reference they are M12 x 1.25 thread pitch, ideally around 75mm long, for the 750 Machine Mart stand. The holes in the housing aren't blind so the thread can go through a bit.

Now this is the first time I've done something like this before, ie full rebuild, so I'm going steady. Being only 19 years old I don't exactly have as much experience as some of the veterans in the field!

The plan, and it is just a little plan because Im standing at crossroads at the moment, is to go with stock Toyota parts and build myself a complete stock Twin-Turbo motor. The bodywork, interior, etc is stock so Im not sure if I want the whole car to carry on along these lines.

Now Im planning on taking this slow, not rushing and getting it perfect. Ill go steady with it however long it takes as Im in no major rush for the car back, Id prefer to have it back perfect than sooner, if that makes sense?

Im just torn between uprating the internals, going single, 6 speed conversion, etc while I can, and use my stock body as a blank canvass to create my own piece of Supra style. Or stick with stock and have a new-engined, stock Supe. Ideas welcome on that one!

Im yet to rip apart the block and see for scoring on the cylinders and any other signs of damage so I suppose that will really set my course.

Im taking pictures but not many and not really much detail to be fair, I tend to get stuck in and not bother getting the camera. I can post a few pictures up if people would like but I do realise there are a few similar threads. So, just thought Id share my fun with this little jobbie and welcome your opinions for what I should do. I know its mainly my idea as many will state but I like to hear what people think also.

Cheers Guys!

would be nice to hear and see the build progress mate;) go uprated parts make it futureproof:D

Nice project ... good luck

Im always a fan of the stock-ish look. Remove the rear wing, nice wheels, lowered, job done. Spend all your cash on the engine

As for tuning route, how bigs your wallet? Whats your power goals? Im sure a 6 speed conversion would be worth doing regardless Good luck

Good on you for taking this on. Have you seen SimonB's thread with very detailed text & pictures? If you can afford it and the engine is worth keeping, I'd go uprated internals so it's futureproof, as gaz1 suggests.

Replied to your PM, I hope it helps

Start looking for a perfect, none ground, used crank. You don't really want to grind yours if you can help it. Get a perfect used one and have the journals checked for size, then micro polished at a decent machine shop. Fit a new oil pump and new bearings, having had all the rod big ends resized. I'd get it bored and fit Wiseco or stock oversize pistons and then get the head refreshed.

Thanks for the replies guys. Ive spotted the other threads and Im keeping a close watch on them so I didnt know whether to post pictures and details up etc, I suppose I can post some progress shots up. Im yet to see the extent of, if there is any, damage to the internals. Ill probably have a better idea of where Id like to go when I get that done. The other threads really are a big help and I really dont feel like Ive been dropped in the deep end because of the help and support you can get on here!

Cheers for the help once again and for your opinions/ideas too!

p/s Got the bolts sorted Dave, 70mm long at that pitch seemed to work a treat!

my advise is while its pulled apart stretch your funds and upgrade the interanals i just done it and im happy with my choice however only if you can afford it as it aint cheap;)

Ok did a bit more tonight and I have some pictures to go along with this post too. Basically we got the wiring off last night along with the intake and some casing too. We had a go at the crank pulley bolt but nothing was really going to get it off, so we ended up leaving it.

Tonight we went ahead and pulled off some other bits. The crank pulley bolt finally gave in, much easier than when I tried doing my NA timing belt! We also got the alternator off along with the remaining casing, pulleys and timing belt. We then took the cam covers off to take a look there, it all seemed fine. I unbolted most of the turbo fixings but am yet to remove them. The exhaust bolts are on really well and will probably take some gentle persuasion. That was about it for tonight.

Ive taken lots of photos and Im really trying to remember where things go and what route they take. I then sit back later on and try to remember and my head is a blur of wires and pipes! Im sure once assembley begins things will piece together quite easily.

Cheers

Looking cool dude!

How did you get the crank pulley bolt off in the end?

I had a right 'mare with mine when it was on a stand (and I didnt have a decent comrpessor at the time)

How did you get the crank pulley nolt off in the end?

I had a right 'mare with mine when it was on a stand (and I didnt have a decent comrpessor at the time)

Well, you need the tool used in the cambelt change, this bolts to the pulley and then to a bar which rests on the inner arch. When I used it on the stand I dropped the bar through the crane hook and this gave enough stopping power as I lifted on the breaker bar. I could lift the motor off the ground whilst doing this but after a few swift yanks and a bit of hammer time it came.

I had the same problem with mine - despite writing a list of jobs to remind me to undo it before removing the current engine I still forgot! My impact wrench made no impact on it... I used some box section jammed between two pegs on the flywheel and the garage floor.

Another update.

I started tonight by removing the rest of the water piping which goes around the back of the engine and also the water pump remainders. I then went on to remove the upper turbo pipings and all the connectors there. Then the turbos themselves came off at the manifold, bolts were on good! And then finally then engine mounts, oil filter and everything off the outside of the head was stripped.

Some pictures too!

Got the rest of the motor stripped tonight, its not completely in pieces but enough to let me see what's occuring. The head came off easy, needed to buy a huge allen key socket to get the head bolts off though. The cylinder walls aren't really scorn (pics) so I hopefully I don't need a rebore and new pstons. Took the sump off after that and lots of shavings were gathered around the edge and in the remaining oil. Looks to be of a brassy/copper colour but might just be coloured from the oil. Lots of shavings on the filter and oil plate. Took one rod apart to see the big end bearing it was faded and worn. The crank doesnt look bad, that was just one rod though, still five to go!

Is the sump meant to be joined with sealant as the gasket or is there a proper gasket for it? Also there was sealant around the bottom joint of the block (where the sump bolts to).

Can't really see from those pics what the bores are like. Those bits of metal don't look good though! Both sumps are sealed with sealant, there's no gasket.

The shrapnel is bearing material. The rods WILL need replacing or at least re sizing, hard to tell from pictures, but the bores look horrible. They need measuring properly by someone used to a Mercer gauge. I'd bore it as matter of course if I were you. Certainly will need a new oil pump, and a crank grind. Much better to find a perfect stock size crank, Cheapest option is a KNOWN good used engine replacement.

Good luck with your project. The stock look on the outside enables all expenditure where it really matters.

It don't half need a clean Luke! Give me a shout over weekend if your carrying on, we'll sort valves and springs and get head sent off

The shrapnel is bearing material. The rods WILL need replacing or at least re sizing, hard to tell from pictures, but the bores look horrible. They need measuring properly by someone used to a Mercer gauge. I'd bore it as matter of course if I were you. Certainly will need a new oil pump, and a crank grind. Much better to find a perfect stock size crank, Cheapest option is a KNOWN good used engine replacement.

Cheers Chris,

I know it probably would be easier to get a new engine but Ive got this far now and am in no real rush for the car back so will probably continue along this route. Can you expand on why new rods would be needed? Also, the cylinders are still covered in oil and carbon etc so dont look the best, especially when I take pictures from beneath! Ill get some better pictures up for a good verdict. I know it needs a proper measure really. Are oversized rings available for stock pistons? Maybe utilize stock pistons once again?

Thanks

Get those decent pics up mate. With Chris on the crank, don't grind it. The crank is long and strength is paramount. Grinding it will probably cause you grief in future. Don't even think about going single on a ground crank.

New oil pump from PHR. Ask Jevansio how much grief he had with stock pumps causing the seals to blow.

By the way bud. Hats off to you for attempting this. Not many would and certainly not someone of so few years. Well done.

Looking at the pics I have to say the bores do look poor and the piston edges look like some det may have occured ??

For the sake of hassle and time it is well worth thinking about a brand new bottom end from Mr T, I paid a little over £1800, a few quid more with a new oil pump and water pump

Best of luck however

New oil pump from PHR. Ask Jevansio how much grief he had with stock pumps causing the seals to blow.

Stock pumps don't cause the seal to blow. Dirt and grit and contaminated oil and poor installation may do. All the modified pumps do is enlarge the drain hole behind the seal slightly - there's no way there should be anywhere near enough oil behind there to need it if everything else is correct.

100% agree Simon. Still a bit unsure whether the later castings are flawed around the pressure relief valve area though, there do seem to be some issues with cracking.

Having said all that the stock RB2* series pumps have probably 3 times the drain area from behind the seal, and the race ones probably 10 times.