Single Turbo Nightmares!!

Guys,

After a series of road trips this summer to LeMans & Paris, with a convoy of supercars. I'm tinkering with the prospect of going Single! BPU is great but it'll be nice to give a Lambo and a Ferrari a good spanking once in a while!!

But I am put off by all the problems and countless unreliability you then encounter. All I've ever heard, is people ranting on about the problems they have had.

Can any one please shine sum light on this topic!

I'm not after mad power 550 BHP would be fine for me, possible a T67 Turbo (So the car is still street drivable).

Can some one please define a good set up?

Thanks

Wayne

well i was reading that in order to have a good horse power car it it is recommended to get the correct fuel setup possible two fuel to three fuel pumps will stop engines from blowing:search:

Personally, I don't think it's the big things that make an installation good or bad, it's all the little things.

As they say, the devil's in the detail.

fueling is the most important

So what set up would you go for?

Wot do you think about a T67 Turbo?

I have been looking at that sort of range lately...

However I am just waiting to see what my car runs like at full boost on my hybrids... got 407 @ the hubs @ 1.2bar boost, and its mapped to 1.4 so still more power to come. have a look at my garage and signature link for the spec, etc...

But as tony said, the devil is in the detail... I can vouch for that

for 550 you only need to go to gt35, wth supporting mods... fueling, ecu, cams, fmic, etc.

Personally, I don't think it's the big things that make an installation good or bad, it's all the little things.

As they say, the devil's in the detail.

totally agree, you have to first of all have a good basis its no use putting a single on a poorly serviced car, get all the basics right first, hiking the power up will just accellerate any problems, and as Tony says it wont be something big that lets the car down it will be a blown off hose or a bad connection

Personally i think it would be better to buy a tried and tested one....One such as THIS for example

Personally i think it would be better to buy a tried and tested one....One such as THIS for example

shameless

shameless

If i keep going like this they will be calling me Nic.

Personally i think it would be better to buy a tried and tested one....One such as THIS for example

PMSL Nic would be proud of the way you got that plug in Gaz

PMSL Nic would be proud of the way you got that plug in Gaz

5125 posts of watching and learning.

5125 posts of watching and learning.

(in a Darth Vader stylee) the apprentice has now become the master

550 *IS* big power, in anyones books, people sneer at anything under 650 now, yet a true 650 BHP will break lots of other things on the car. FWIW here's my take of what you need.

Cast iron exhaust manifold, genuine Garrett turbo, model and A/R et cetera as recommended by someone that knows what they are talking about. Tial wastegate, proper plumbed back into downpipe wastegate pipe, with flexi section. Properly made downpipe, supported at bellhousing, with a flexi sectiom. proper heat insulation of turbo, and heat protection of surrounding parts. Properly formed steel or alloy turbo oil drain pipe. Proper heat tolerant oil supply line. Correct stainless fasteners for turbo and wastegate using K nuts

Forged pistons, preferably JUN, Wiseco at a pinch. New engine bearings and oil pump, bores and crank properly checked for size and wear. BIG oil cooler, as big as you can fit in, on 3/4 bore plumbing, with a decent oil thermostat. Stock oil filter in stock location. Stock headgasket.

Set of 264 cams, properly set up, and re shimmed, operating freshly lapped valves with new stem seals in new or perfect guides.

Proper, stand alone ECU, minimum of AEM, but preferably Motec, fitted and set up by someone proficient, mapped by someone ultra proficient, and tweaked on the road over several days. This'll cost a lot of dosh...

Bigger fuel pump, probably in tank Bosch 044 Motorsport pump with proper pickup filter. Stock pressure regulator, stock rail, -8 hoses from pump to bigger than stock fuel filter, and on to stock rail.

Set of 650 ish injectors, not re drilled, genuine things from a respected injector manufacturer, flow and spray pattern tested.

Properly thought out air filtration system, preferably try and adapt the stock air box and stock paper element panel filter.

Properly rated colder precious metal plugs, NGK as a 1st choice. NOT copper!!!

New water pump, thermostat and all coolant hoses, new rad (stock), perfect or new SMIC, new rear main seal, new uprated clutch assembly, either on new stock flywheel, or if you can stand the noise, a Giken twin plater.

Enough funds in reserve to maintain it and keep its prodigious fuel requirements and insurance needs met. A good dose of good luck, and a desire to spend far far more than thing will ever be worth

550 *IS* big power, in anyones books, people sneer at anything under 650 now, yet a true 650 BHP will break lots of other things on the car. FWIW here's my take of what you need.

 

Cast iron exhaust manifold, genuine Garrett turbo, model and A/R et cetera as recommended by someone that knows what they are talking about. Tial wastegate, proper plumbed back into downpipe wastegate pipe, with flexi section. Properly made downpipe, supported at bellhousing, with a feexi sectiom. proper heat insulation of turbo, and heat protection of surrounding parts. properly formed steeel or alloy turbo drain pipe. Proper heat tolerant oil supply line.

 

Forged pistons, preferably JUN, Wiseco at a pinch. New engine bearings and oil pump, bores and crank properly checked for size and wear. BIG oil cooler, as big as you can fit in, on 3/4 bore plumbing, with thermostat. Stock oil filter in stock location. Stock headgasket.

 

Set of 264 cams, properly set up, and re shimmed, operating freshly lapped valves with new stem seals in new or perfect guides.

 

Proper, stand alone ECU, minimum of AEM, but preferably Motec, fitted and set up by someone proficient, mapped by someone ultra proficient, and tweaked on the road over several days. this'll cost a lot of dosh...

 

Bigger fuel pump, probably in tank Bosch 044 Motorsport pump with proper pickup filter. Stock pressure regulator, stock rail, -8 hoses from pump to bigger than stock fuel filter, and on to stock rail.

 

Set of 650 ish injectors, not re drilled, genuine things from a respected injector manufacturer, flow and spray pattern tested.

 

Properly rated colder precious metal plugs, NGK as a 1st choice. NOT copper!!!

 

New water pump, thermostat and all coolant hoses, new rad (stock), perfect or new SMIC, new rear main seal, new uprated clutch assembly, either on new stock flywheel, or if you can stand the noise, a Giken twin plater.

 

Enough funds in reserve to maintain it and keep its prodigious fuel requirements and insurance needs met. A good dose of good luck, and a desire to spend far far more than thing will ever be worth

and thats why I went with hybrids...

Some good advise chris

550 *IS* big power, in anyones books, people sneer at anything under 650 now, yet a true 650 BHP will break lots of other things on the car. FWIW here's my take of what you need.

 

Cast iron exhaust manifold, genuine Garrett turbo, model and A/R et cetera as recommended by someone that knows what they are talking about. Tial wastegate, proper plumbed back into downpipe wastegate pipe, with flexi section. Properly made downpipe, supported at bellhousing, with a flexi sectiom. proper heat insulation of turbo, and heat protection of surrounding parts. Properly formed steel or alloy turbo oil drain pipe. Proper heat tolerant oil supply line. Correct stainless fasteners for turbo and wastegate using K nuts

 

Forged pistons, preferably JUN, Wiseco at a pinch. New engine bearings and oil pump, bores and crank properly checked for size and wear. BIG oil cooler, as big as you can fit in, on 3/4 bore plumbing, with a decent oil thermostat. Stock oil filter in stock location. Stock headgasket.

 

Set of 264 cams, properly set up, and re shimmed, operating freshly lapped valves with new stem seals in new or perfect guides.

 

Proper, stand alone ECU, minimum of AEM, but preferably Motec, fitted and set up by someone proficient, mapped by someone ultra proficient, and tweaked on the road over several days. This'll cost a lot of dosh...

 

Bigger fuel pump, probably in tank Bosch 044 Motorsport pump with proper pickup filter. Stock pressure regulator, stock rail, -8 hoses from pump to bigger than stock fuel filter, and on to stock rail.

 

Set of 650 ish injectors, not re drilled, genuine things from a respected injector manufacturer, flow and spray pattern tested.

 

Properly thought out air filtration system, preferably try and adapt the stock air box and stock paper element panel filter.

 

Properly rated colder precious metal plugs, NGK as a 1st choice. NOT copper!!!

 

New water pump, thermostat and all coolant hoses, new rad (stock), perfect or new SMIC, new rear main seal, new uprated clutch assembly, either on new stock flywheel, or if you can stand the noise, a Giken twin plater.

 

Enough funds in reserve to maintain it and keep its prodigious fuel requirements and insurance needs met. A good dose of good luck, and a desire to spend far far more than thing will ever be worth

allthough i do feel Chris gets a bit carried away with his "wish lists" New water pump, thermostat and all coolant hoses, new rad (stock), perfect or new SMIC, is definately where you need to start i did all this work including all belts (and a FMIC rather than SMIC) valve stem seals, fuel filter, etc before even contemplating a single, work like this will more than anything ensure reliability

allthough i do feel Chris gets a bit carried away with his "wish lists"

I know I do, but I mean well Again, the old adage "You can't polish a turd" is appropriate, if your engine leaks oil, has a death rattle on cold start up, and has poor leakdown results do you *REALLY* think it will welcome a big single and a poor map?

I know I do, but I mean well Again, the old adage "You can't polish a turd" is appropriate, if your engine leaks oil, has a death rattle on cold start up, and has poor leakdown results do you *REALLY* think it will welcome a big single and a poor map?

lol "You can't polish a turd" fully agree Chris

Anyone modding a TT or thinking of fitting, or having fitted, a single turbo conversion, or indeed converting an N/A to turbo power should settle down and read ALL the articles in the pages below. I don't advocate the ECU for Supras, although it's a super little unit to learn about ecu's with on more basic engines, but the tech pages are worth their weight in gold.

http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html

Anyone modding a TT or thinking of fitting, or having fitted, a single turbo conversion, or indeed converting an N/A to turbo power should settle down and read ALL the articles in the pages below. I don't advocate the ECU for Supras, although it's a super little unit to learn about ecu's with on more basic engines, but the tech pages are worth their weight in gold.

 

http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html

settles in with a cup of coffee, thanks for the link Chris:)

Chris makes good sense as usual This is why i went down the line of PHR as they are suppose to have a good reputation in the single turbo business. I am in the middle of my conversion TBH with the next stage being a new fuel system, engine and gearbox rebuild and i've spent over 5k already . I am budgeting at least another 5-8k for the next stage. Although i'm not knocking how the car is at the moment as it was nearly a year ago since i fitted my single and the car on the whole has been great as my daily drive.

So my advice would be make sure you have very deep pockets as it always seems to go over budget

You could always just ship it to the US and get it done properly

You could always just ship it to the US and get it done properly

Now you're just taunting Mr Wilson Bobbeh!!

That wasnt directed at him, but I know he likes a good excuse to try and bash the Yanks