dude Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Tried another ECU in my car , managed to hit 1.4 bar but no fuel cut , WHY, no fcd fitted and ecu worked as intended in the original car (fuel cut at 1 bar) what tells the ecu to initiate fuel cut , it must be a sensor , is this the same sensor that the ecu uses to control the vsv's that bring the turbos on line ???? John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 It's the signal from MAP sensor that invokes fuel cut and yes this is also used to assist with the switch over from single to twin mode. You could be onto something there, take a look at the MAP and make sure all its pipework is OK. If so then you may want to stick a volt meter on ping E9 - 62 (black and yellow wire) of the ECU as you drive along and watch the voltage. It should increase as boost increases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 I guess its the MAP sensor that sends the ECU the info. Although the FFCD mod on MKIV.com fools the ecu too .......... have you checked the pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 Anyone got a pic/link that shows the location of the MAP sensor . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 the 1.4bar was an accurate reading?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 Yeah 1.4 bar , well 1.41 actually why's that dude ??? John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 It's the item labelled as C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Originally posted by dudersvr Yeah 1.4 bar , well 1.41 actually why's that dude ??? John:flame Dev just trying to rule out inaccurate gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 Martin/anyone Is there a test to determine the efficiency of the map sensor ??. Ive allready swapped this off of another car and it was no different . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 There isn't a way in the TRSM to determine it's efficiency only that it is working. I'll try to paraphrase here for you........... 1. With the ignition on you should have between 4.5 - 5.5v at pin 41 of the E9 connector on the ECU. This is the supply to the MAP sensor and you should really check it at the ECU first and then at the MAP sensor pin 3 a blue and red wire. 2. Then also with the ignition on you should have between 2.3 - 3.0v across pins 65 & 62 of the E9 connector and these are the earth and signal wires for the MAP sensor. Again i would check these at the ECU first and work back to the MAP. If there are any failures on the above procedure do a continuity check between the ECU pins and the MAP connection. There is a possibility you may have an open circuit on the signal wire (pin 62 on ECU; pin 2 on MAP, black & yellow wire) as this is normally fitted with an FCD that may have been taken out of your car sometime in its past and not connected back together again very well. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 Martin im gonna go straight for the checking of the wire that has the fcd attached to it because i fitted one before realizing that the Mines has its own fuel cut built in , it could be an electrical problem because sometimes it runs as it should ie 2nd turbo in at 4000rpm , thought i had cured it yestrerday it was fine for 15 minutes then back to mr laggy again . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Now you tell us! : Good Luck Hey JB smiley is *ucked!!! (I de ucked it...JB) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 12, 2003 Author Share Posted May 12, 2003 Hey Martin do you offer your electrical expertise out as well as your bailif skills , my electrical skills are somewhat limited when it comes to intricate diagnostics , allthough i feel i may be capable of determining if i have a connection come apart !!! John:blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Of course, but on a purely working from home position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Originally posted by Martin F Of course, but on a purely working from home position. I might take you up on that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Originally posted by Matt Harwood I might take you up on that one! Ohhh errrr missus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Martin checked the voltage to the black/yellow wire with ign. on it was 0.05v , had a look at ecu and loom , wire 62 is cut and joined to the yellow wire on my s-afc , leon says this is correct and the s-afc is functioning correctly . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Hmmm didn't realise you had an SAFC installed. Getting a bit trickier now and TBH i think i need to watch what i advise. If i was in your position i think i would start putting things back to stock and then add your mods one at a time and go from there. May want to take a drive with a voltmeter connected to pin 62 and see what happens to the voltage going into the ECU as you build boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Martin Had fault code 31 come up when i checked earlier John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 #31 -Open or short in airflow meter (or MAP sensor) circuit -airflow meter (or MAP sensor) -ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mid_lifecry_sis Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 paint your car red dude like geeza and it then dont matter whether you have lag or not! Enjoyed the 5000 rpm second boost > jet engine stuff!!!!! Thanks for your time this weekend m8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Originally posted by matt #31 -Open or short in airflow meter (or MAP sensor) circuit -airflow meter (or MAP sensor) -ECU There you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Martin elaborate dude where am i going re the code 31 :p John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 could 31 be a result of unpluging the map with ign om to check the voltage of the black/yellow wire ???? and not resetting the ecu. John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 I don't think a voltage going into the ECU from the MAP of 0.05v is correct when the engine is not even started. But as i don't have too much experience with the S-AFC i can't be a 100% sure. May be Pete Betts can advise as i think he has some experience with the S-AFC. I would assume that the MAP sensor will sit between 2.3 - 3.0v at atmospheric pressure (i.e. engine not on but sensor active) head towards 0v with a negative manifold pressure and then head towards 5v with positive manifold pressure. If you are reading 0.05v with the ignition on then i think that this is what is causing the ECU to throw the code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.