Project Supracharger

You could run it like that, or/and use the distributor sensors, or swap the distributor for an MA70 CPS, there are many ways to skin the cat.

I posted a thread with photographs, videos and links to threads showing several different ways of upgrading the GE engine to coil packs and how to modify the tacho.

For easy reference I posted a link on the N/A-T page, here's another.

GE Coil Pack Conversion

After fitting a U.K. spec bonnet-scoop I found that the wipers skipped off/on the screen when over 70 Leptons and since running the modified Chargespeed (Superchargespeed) bonnet, the wipers progressed onto lifting clear of the screen at exactly 70 and by 130 would be 100mm off the screen waving about like a Leo Sayer performance.

Not that I wish to make a habit of tearing about in the rain, yet suddenly not seeing where I'm going can be "inconvenient" when breaking the 70 Leptons barrier during overtaking.

With the JDL bonnet extension temporarily trapped into place, I've just had an opportunity for a test run in the rain and the Supracharged Research & Development Aerodynamics Department reports that the wipers were still wiping perfectly at the 100 Leptons tested to.

With the JDL bonnet extension temporarily trapped into place, I've just had an opportunity for a test run in the rain and the Supracharged Research & Development Aerodynamics Department reports that the wipers were still wiping perfectly at the 100 Leptons tested to.

This is very useful to know, glad that R-DAD has completed this research. especially as I need a bonnet re-spray so additions could be added during

This is very useful to know, glad that R-DAD has completed this research. especially as I need a bonnet re-spray so additions could be added during

I thought it might be useful info for some aftermarket bonnet owners.

The acronym for "Supracharged Research & Development Aerodynamics Department" is actually "SRD-AD".

I thought it might be useful info for some aftermarket bonnet owners.

 

The acronym for "Supracharged Research & Development - Aerodynamics Department" is actually "SRD-AD".

Steady, there may be a copyright infringement going on here.

Steady, there may be a copyright infringement going on here.

Supracharged Research & Development has been on the go for longer.

After fitting a U.K. spec bonnet-scoop I found that the wipers skipped off/on the screen when over 70 Leptons and since running the modified Chargespeed (Superchargespeed) bonnet, the wipers progressed onto lifting clear of the screen at exactly 70 and by 130 would be 100mm off the screen waving about like a Leo Sayer performance.

 

Not that I wish to make a habit of http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=162647&thumb=1&d=1324415165 tearing about in the rain, yet suddenly not seeing where I'm going can be "inconvenient" when breaking the 70 Leptons barrier during overtaking.

 

 

With the JDL bonnet extension temporarily trapped into place, I've just had an opportunity for a test run in the rain and the Supracharged Research & Development Aerodynamics Department reports that the wipers were still wiping perfectly at the 100 Leptons tested to.

Get yourself some Rainex or Rain Guard and you won't even need wipers at over 60. You will need to apply it according to the instructions though and let it dry properly before rinsing.

For the life of me I can't think why the stuff isn't made mandatory as you can see clearly in torrential rain.

Lasts about 3 months between applications.

Never heard of it and don't need it now that I've cured in old money.

Never heard of it and don't need it now that I've cured in old money.

Prevention is better than cure.

http://www.rainx.co.uk/what-the-experts-say/

With assistance from Shane for the soldering/bending, both the injector driver and VVTI coil packs and ignitor are now fitted.

Thank you very much.

Foam tape on the sides of coil packs make them a snug fit and they nestle in nicely.

The injector driver is mounted where the coil used to be and I'll replace the distributor with an MA70 GTE CPS when I can find one.

It's running but cylinder 5 is not happy, there's a good spark and the injector and driver circuits check out fine, we've treble checked our wiring which is A okay.

The threads we've been working from are gobbledecontradictagook with insufficient information to configure the ECU and unfortunately, the AEM forum is down for maintenance.

I need to enquire which ignition and injector settings are required before I can drive it.

Certainly not a job for the faint hearted.

[video=youtube_share;oOvJC12-wpE]

I worked out how to make the settings changes save and the engine will run, but it's not happy.

It sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders yet it's definitely firing on 6.

Coils 1, 2, 3 & 6, 7, 8 are turned on and I've retarded the timing map by 14.1 degrees.

Here's a pic of the settings.

Could someone please confirm these are correct or not?

I have also swapped from a resistor pack to an AEM injector driver, could that be causing this problem?

You have a PM

Update:

ECU settings are A okay and now suspect that the finer signals from the driver are not strong enough to fire a sticky no. 5 injector.

It has been a bugger to start for a while, then cough and chug for a while to clear, the AFR gauge read lean on startup yet I had put that down to low voltage to the gauge.

I'll pull the injectors and get them off to Chris Wilson for a service.

If I were you, getting into the guts of ecu and injector / ignition modifications, I'd go out and buy a USB oscilloscope and a current clamp. By putting the current measuring clamp over various wires you can see on the screen just what signals the coils and injectors are receiving. A sticky, stuck, dead or shorted injector will show up clearly, as will faulty coils or signals thereto. There are dozens of YouTube videos showing how to do these tests and they are not difficult. Whilst the perceived ultimate USB oscilloscope for automotive use is the PicoScope, it's VERY expensive. This is because it is menu optimised to make it easy to do common auto electrical tests A generic USB scope is nearly as good and a fraction of the price. In terms of oscilloscope performance everything on a car apart from CAN BUS tests happens pitifully slowly, so a slow (cheap...) scope is more than adequate.

Glad to hear you sorted the problem matey

If I were you, getting into the guts of ecu and injector / ignition modifications, I'd go out and buy a USB oscilloscope and a current clamp. By putting the current measuring clamp over various wires you can see on the screen just what signals the coils and injectors are receiving. A sticky, stuck, dead or shorted injector will show up clearly, as will faulty coils or signals thereto. There are dozens of YouTube videos showing how to do these tests and they are not difficult. Whilst the perceived ultimate USB oscilloscope for automotive use is the PicoScope, it's VERY expensive. This is because it is menu optimised to make it easy to do common auto electrical tests A generic USB scope is nearly as good and a fraction of the price. In terms of oscilloscope performance everything on a car apart from CAN BUS tests happens pitifully slowly, so a slow (cheap...) scope is more than adequate.

Cheers for that snippet, I'll look into it.

As per our tel conversation, have sent them guaranteed delivery before 13.00hrs tomorrow to Dan Turner at AME for an express check and clean and because they're only 40 miles away I've managed to arrange a lift to go and pick them up on Thursday.

It's the only way to have them back in time before the World stops on Bad Friday.

Glad to hear you sorted the problem matey

Not sorted yet, just moving on to the next most likely probability.

Will refit them Thursday pm and should I be correct, can then drive home.

Either/or, Shane needs it out because he plans to paint the floor at the weekend.

Cheers for that snippet, I'll look into it.

 

As per our tel conversation, have sent them to Dan Turner at AME for check and clean because they're only 40 miles away and I've arranged a lift to go and pick them up on Thursday.

 

It's the only way to have them back before the World stops on Bad Friday.

 

 

 

Not sorted yet, just moving on to the next most likely probability.

 

Will refit them Thursday pm and should I be correct, can then drive home.

 

Either/or, Shane needs it out because he plans to paint the floor at the weekend.

That's not a real issue though, as per our call we can easily move it round the back and park it where mine currently is.

Chris is right and you could do with a scope for this, mine is dead but saw this one that would do the trick and it's right on your doorstep:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-MDO4104-6-Mixed-Domain-Oscilloscope-Ex-Demo-in-Great-Condition-/251502531451?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3a8eb8137b

That's not a real issue though, as per our call we can easily move it round the back and park it where mine currently is.

 

Chris is right and you could do with a scope for this, mine is dead but saw this one that would do the trick and it's right on your doorstep:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektronix-MDO4104-6-Mixed-Domain-Oscilloscope-Ex-Demo-in-Great-Condition-/251502531451?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3a8eb8137b

I'm fortunate that my, "I can do it anywhere" falter is not an issue for you, yet I'm desperate for a haircut and the sooner I'm back on wheels the better.

With the quality of information we worked from, with a multitude of untested used components and 66? wire, open brain soldering surgery on both the ignition and injection circuits, not forgetting my never before tried button pressing ECU games, there always was a wing and a prayer element to the job.

We double checked every component and circuit every which way and with input from Pig, Gpro and Dan Turner, it was confirmed that I had pressed the correct buttons.

Thank you.

With the "human error" element discounted.

It happened that way because it was the only way it could - and think we did well.

My logic is;

The previous to cold-start "minor fault" Gremlin, that I suspected to be a culmination of poor ICV control, low voltage, weak ignition and engine flooding which would be magically cured by this conversion or/and a new battery was because of it, in the Real World, exposed as a "Major fault".

I think the shorter stronger pulse from the previous to resistor-pack signal and with conducted heat from the engine was just enough to get number 5 injector going from "stuck closed when cold", however, the now longer, peak and hold signal doesn't quite pack the same punch.

Silly quote of the day. "Where does this red and white wire go?"

Sensible quote of the day. "Sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders!"

I daren't tell the funniest.

Both battery chargers are turned off because the fuel line is open and the dog eggs I launched down the Nene valley.

P.S.

I'm listening to my first cuckoo this year, maybe it flew over the Supra's nest?

Glad to hear you are starting to move in the right direction.

Shame you are not closer otherwise I would have said you would be more than welcome to borrow my PicoScope...bit cheaper than your £17k ebay option

Us Supranerds are a far flung Tribe.

Unfortunately, I could probably order one of those in a local Pub, yet should my diagnosis be correct, I'll have cracked another conundrum in old money and won't need to.

Dave I think you aleady know what im going to say what I think you problem is,

Dave I think you aleady know what im going to say what I think you problem is,

Excessive use of emoticons? Flatulence? A supercharger? Do pray tell

Old money diagnostics have unearthed a whole can of worms!

Just spoken with AME and the news is not good, I'm waiting for an emailed pic of the results.

Is that three nil now Gary?

"It's worse than that they're dead Jim!"

A 24% spread explains the high EGT's and a few of the missing horses and maybe even the mystery ting-ting?

There's a Wanted thread posted, yet mention it here too just in case.

I've had a search around and found inc taxes and Express delivery; I could have a set of recon Denso 550cc for £270, or a new set of Precisions for £400, but the World has ground to halt now for 4 days, so might as well spend them looking out for a set of low-impedance top-feed injectors, ideally 550cc yet up to 700 tops would be O.K.