Project Supracharger

Recycling the ends of Scott's dead OE damper and a couple of shortened stainless 6m x 1.0 rivnuts, a quick visit to TIG Stig and that little job is jobbed.

First opportunity I get, I will test fit this to the jig engine then it can go on.

If this proves not 'man enough' for the job, I will use a turn-buckle with 2 x 8mm rose joints.

Even though the 'Old Girl' is constantly massaged with spanners, she still scrubs up nicely.

If you like this photograph click here and vote into Calendar 2012.

Thank you.

voted

you can vote on my [OBSENITY REMOVED] one if you want lol in events

Yours is the only event.

when do you think you will be fitting everything and fireing it up.

The final little hurdle or three are fighting back, most of these 'complications' have been mentioned in the thread except for Bob's live-in mother-in-law passing away, followed by him now taking his missus on holiday and without access to his workshop the project is on go-slow.

Other than the bonnet, there's only a good weekends work to be up and growling, but one thing and/or another is contriving against progress.

When all settles down and the last bits turn up, the job will get moving along.

Good news.

I have received an email from Garrett at Latent Solutions, he has repaired the Suprastick Free Of Charge and it's now winging it's way back to me.

The after sales support for this product is exemplary.

Any more ideas on the bonnet yet? Be a shame to ahve it all up and running and going down the street like something out of mad max with no bonnet

The plan is to get a bent bonnet from Keron, cut out some strips and to get TIG Stig to weld them into the straight spare I have to play with.

I wish it would be as easy to do as say, but the tinkerology is aiming to turn out something like the photoshoped red bonnet posted a page or three ago.

The whole job has been on go-slow for a while whilst Bob's family bury their granny and get over their grieving.

Things are now settling back down again and on Sunday I will be back to some good old tinkering.

The 78mm stick-on was not happy staying stuck-on, so switched to wearing a 64mm strip-on.

Sorrowfully sad Supra-snap showing said smaller sleeker straighter smarter smile.

Fakir's water-bed testing, Antipodean skip-grovelling and gynelectrikology are included in the origamechanics of extracting this final donor Universal-Translator component from the carcass of a once proud 199A U.K. spec auto, shortly before a crushing destiny on the great voyage of recycling.

After two long years of Supra-Treasure hunting, I have at last found my Supra Golden Chalice.

An almost 'Mythical' U.K. spec integration relay.

To transplant into my Hybrid.

The good news is; yesterday whilst at Kerons I spotted an MT6 N/A engine with everything except the damper and no belt on and my prototype was in the car, Jackpot.

I found the length of the gas strut was only a couple of mm too long, so ground a little off the threads at each end, and 'Bob's your Uncle'.

That was my best guessmeasury yet.

The bad news is; today at the Workshop I have found that the bottom block doesn't match the bolt holes on the oil pump of my MT5 jig engine.

According to my research of part numbers on Toyodiy, the N/A auto has the same oil pump as the N/A 6MT that donated it, I will go and learn some more.

Good news is; I now have both a Lexus cruise cable and an N/A throttle cable, I will send these off to Speedograph Ritchfield for copies @ + 28" tc and + 36" cc and have bespoke length cables.

I have revisited Toyodiy and this time found the right numbers which explains the misfit conundrum.

J spec 2JZA-80 oil pump part numbers

N/A AT4 15100 - 46041

N/A MT5 15100 - 46041 or 15100‑46042

N/A MT6 15100 - 46042

TT AT4 15100 - 46051

TT MT6 15100 - 46051

The little alloy mounting block fits all of them except those with numbers ending in '41'.

Testicles!

Oddly, the bolt holes in the 46041 are better placed and spaced to take the strain, so I will make one from steel.

i had that problem with the lower bolt holes being different.I made the tensioner for one engine not realizing and hey presto it didnt fit.

It shouldn't be too much work to knock one up, but on the jig engine the crank damper is a different size to work around and the burnt PAS pump is twisted with a missing bottom bracket, which complicates the process, so I will have to work in situ on car and there's not much room down there.

I might have a used TT oil pump, but as the case itself is subject to wear it's not an ideal fix.

BTW, the reason for the different pumps is the very late N/A's used a crank position sensor, which mounts in the oil pump casting, hence two different pump part numbers.

Chris,

Thank you for the offer, I don't understand Mr T's thinking with all these different oil pumps, yet I think using a T.T. pump would create further knock-on minor incompatibility complications.

An N/A MT6 pump should be plug&play, yet the simplest and strongest solution will be to make a bracket from steel.

BTW, the reason for the different pumps is the very late N/A's used a crank position sensor, which mounts in the oil pump casting, hence two different pump part numbers.

The part numbers quoted are all for 1996 models, mine is the for no particular reason, odd one out N/A AT4 pump.

The bottom bracket is bracketed, this was an awkward one to make as the pump has a lump in it and the bolt hole faces were not not plane.

I couldn't find any high tensile bolts in the correct size, so will buy some tomorrow.

Courtesy of Shane, I have swapped the plastic wheel for a steel version which will be better suited for the job it has to do.

The PAS adaptor block drawings have been reclaimed from engineer 5 and tomorrow I will pass these onto engineer 6.

The next little job will either be cables or PAS support, depending on which turns up first.

Great build, I have to say I think the SC drive should have been totally separate to the auxiliary drive belt system. But that would only need later pulley work. Shock loading, and drive path loadings in general, look marginal. I still think you are closer to a viable SC set up to any other I have seen for the JZ series. Keep at it, you and Barney certainly deserve success .

Thank you for the kind words, just the PAS pump bearing support to go and then I can mount the charger for a trial spin.

Good luck. watching with huge interest and respect, hope it all comes together for you guys.

Great build, I have to say I think the SC drive should have been totally separate to the auxiliary drive belt system. But that would only need later pulley work. Shock loading, and drive path loadings in general, look marginal. I still think you are closer to a viable SC set up to any other I have seen for the JZ series. Keep at it, you and Barney certainly deserve success .

A few seem to turn up with superchargers in Japan. They are TRD superchargers, so I would assume they're modified Lexus is300 kits.

A few seem to turn up with superchargers in Japan. They are TRD superchargers, so I would assume they're modified Lexus is300 kits.

I would be interested for you to post a pic, I have only found Rotrex kits on the Lexus 2JZ.

Good news; Yesterday I had a call to say that the cables have been made and are in the post.

The PAS pulley adaptor has been promised for the weekend too, again.

The cables have turned up.

Fitting these didn't require a visit to the workshop, so I made hay while the sun was shining.

After routing, mounting, connecting and trial-fitting them to the supercharger throttle-body, the new throttle-cable is now operating the normally-aspirated throttle and the new cruise-cable is attached to the supercharger throttle-body but not the actuator.

Another plug-and-play supercharger-adaptation in-readiness.

I am pleased with their lengths, they instinctively cling to the inner-wing forming nice gentle arcs above the headlamp.

And a large squidgy yellow wheel-well grommet worked well too.

The normally-aspirated throttle closes efficiently but the pedal is uncomfortably heavier, even though it has a nice gentle arc and the cable is well lubricated.

I can improve the arc of the cruise-cable with a slot in the air-box lined with some of the door-rubber and give them a final-fit tinkering about with yet, but can't resist taking them off the list and declaring DEFCON 4.