Robzki Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 HI I know the profec a is very old, fuzzy logic is/isn't good depending on who you believe etc etc. But its all I have at the moment I have been fitting loads of parts over the last couple of days and the final part is the boost controller. It has a solenoid with 4 ports, as far as I can tell 1 is left open but aimed downwards? That leaves 3 on the other side 1 being smaller than the other 2, which I assume would be connected with a tee piece into the boost gauge? That leaves 2 I have searched on the greddy site and can find the setup manual but only a very basic install guide. http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_AB_helpdia.pdf I have absolutely no idea where these 2 pipes go and what to block off etc, If anybody has a profec A fitted and can shed any light to a very dim person it would be much appreciated, or if anyone has a fitting guide that would be great too , It says on the link above at the top that there is a jza80 specific guide available, I have searched the net until I'm grumpy, and can't find a copy. If anyone has any help advice at all with pics if possible I would be eternally grateful etc etc I'm fairly sure the profec b must use the same connections to a point, and I'm only assuming I'm right with the first 2 connections I'm trying to get this finished by monday morning, mot retest etc. So if you think you may have something helpful to say please do Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 not sure if this will help. But have greddy profec spec B i have just installed. can take some pics tomorrow of where and how i have it plumbed in. should be the same or give u some kind of idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 not sure if this will help. But have greddy profec spec B i have just installed. can take some pics tomorrow of where and how i have it plumbed in. should be the same or give u some kind of idea. That would be outstanding, I'm sure I'm making it more complicated than it probably is. I bought it secondhand from here a year or 2 ago. been stressing about fitting it ever since, fairly sure the solenoid on the profec A can be used on the B or vice versa, so there must be similarities. Just fitted 1st and second decat, walbro, new fuel filter, pulsation bypass, new coil pack clips, NGK iridiums, catback, upper rear wishbones etc etc, been a busy couple of days. last things on the list tomorrow(turbo timer, boost controller, fcd) so wiring in the morning then hopefully plumbing in the afternoon. Any help appreciated thanks again Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 I also take it that the boost controller is powered by a switched + source? Off out to get started, would love to get this completed today, Any help appreciated now bpu after 2 years of waiting and haven't driven it yet. thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 Could someone explain these diagrams, possibly adding some text to them to make it clearer for a dimwit, All I'm doing is confusing myself. bypass the vsv, plumb between vsv and actuator, plumb into actuator and turbo housing, unplug the vsv? another couple of hours and I'm gonna get desperate to just unplug pipes, cap stuff, then worry that I toast something..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Okay, here we go. First a picture of the area you'll be working in for reference. You can see one of the capped VSV ports just to the upper right of the air intake. This is the VSV that needs to be capped. The first vacuum line that needs to be removed runs from the top of the motor down to the left VSV nipple. Remove it and cap both ends. Next you need to remove the vacuum line going going from the VSV to the front outlet of the wastegate actuator (shown in one of the previous photos). Cap both ends. Then remove the vacuum line running from the turbo pressure outlet which goes to the top of the wastegate actuator. Both the top wastegate nipple and the turbo outlet nipple are very hard to see. Now run a vacuum line from the middle port of your EVC solenoid to the top outlet of the wastegate actuator. The wastegate actuator is the brass cylindrical object with two outlets on it. Next, run a vacuum line from the leftmost port of the EVC solenoid to the turbo pressure outlet. See the picture of my EVC solenoid install if you're wondering which ports are left and right. You should place the larger of the two vacuum filters on this line. FYI: There will not be enough of the wider vacuum line to reach both the turbo pressure outlet and the wastegate actuator. So you will need to find some more vacuum line. I had some left over from the EVC IV install in my old 3000GT (along with the vacuum caps). MAKE SURE YOU GET THE VACUUM LINES RUN TO THE CORRECT PORTS! If you don't the wastegate will not open and you'll be SEVERELY overboosting your car. This will also happen if the wastegate selector switch on the back of the EVC control unit is not set properly. For stock turbos it needs to be set on "SW". Finally attach the smaller of the two vacuum lines (with a vacuum filter installed) to a manifold pressure source. I used the port that connected to the actuator for the stock BOV. I had to use the included HKS T fitting on it because I already was using this port for my boost gauge. Picture of the solenoid installation. This actually took me the longest because I wanted it in a nice clean out of the way spot. There is a small 1"x2" square hole behind it that I stuck my finger in to hold the bolt for the mounting screw. I must have dropped that damn bolt 15 times before I finally got the screw into it successfully. Hope this helps you out. Who knows, maybe I'll do a better writeup on this someday and see if MKIV.com will host it. Anyway, one other thing, you don't necessarily need the install kit for the EVC V. I ordered it anyway but you can pretty much get by with the stuff that comes with the EVC. You may just need a T fitting and some extra vacuum line. Here is what you get with the installation kit... 2 M6 TEE Fittings 1 Reducer TEE Fitting (2 M6, 1 M4) 1 M6 to M4 reducer Fitting 17 M6 Hose Clamps 4 M4 Hose Clamps 1 M6 Vacuum Cap 1 M4 Vacuum Cap 1 M6 Silicone hose 1 M4 Silicone hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 m8, you are an absolute star, I've been searching for days for something like that, even using red caps just so I can see them easily is above and beyond . Finishing off the wiring shortly then I'm on the plumbing. Can't see any reason why this won't work with the greddy profec a, except that it has an extra pipe on the back which I've seen somewhere just vents to open air. Could be wrong but least you've put me on the right track. Thanks again, I'll post back here how get on. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 Hi all I have now fitted this as per the instruction given to me by fastcar.(really helpful for a new member with only 50+posts ) surely there must be other members here with an opinion, or knowledge. Has anyone got any input at all as to whether this is the right way to go about it? I am a little confused as from what I have read when an ebc is switched off the car will go back to stock boost, how does this happen when you have basically removed a part of the toyota system? I'm also baffled as to how this works on a sequential system, surely you are only controlling one actuator for no1 turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 dont forget to block off the connection that arent used. The 3rd pipe your talking about is a pressure refference pipe and should be plumbed in with the T peice in to a pressure source. I plumbed mine in to a pressure source on the manifold the pipe marked in red. like in the pic below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 cant realy help u with that one i have some sort of idea of how it works but not 100% sure. im sure the turbo pressure is all controlled from the first turbo. so thats the reason why u only plumb into the first turbo and acuator. there is another acuator but i think that only controlls exhaust gas to spoll up the secound turbo just before it comes online at around 4000rpm. but again im not 100% sure. it is a difficult system to work out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 (edited) dont forget to block off the connection that arent used. The 3rd pipe your talking about is a pressure refference pipe and should be plumbed in with the T peice in to a pressure source. I plumbed mine in to a pressure source on the manifold the pipe marked in red. like in the pic below. Thanks for all your advice. It has helped me out no end. Strange that noone else has perked up with any support or advice. there is a kind of apathy round here sometimes. Usually when you really need help to get a car back on the road. I failed but would have been even further behind without your help. couple of really quick questions: Where did you find out about this? Just to check you have tried it? works ok? Thanks again Rob Edited September 19, 2010 by Robzki (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 cant realy help u with that one i have some sort of idea of how it works but not 100% sure. im sure the turbo pressure is all controlled from the first turbo. so thats the reason why u only plumb into the first turbo and acuator. there is another acuator but i think that only controlls exhaust gas to spoll up the secound turbo just before it comes online at around 4000rpm. but again im not 100% sure. it is a difficult system to work out! Yeah that does make sense, hadn't thought about the spool on the second turbo. In my mind they worked entirely independently 2 actuators etc, but your way makes more sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 i just did a massive amount of searching on the net. got little bits of info from each place then sort of put it all together. I used this info to plumb in my boost controller and is working fine. its raising boost 1.2bar with no probs. im going to get mine set up propley on a dyno somtime this week as i find it abit hard to do to the road. Just need to wire in the HKS air/fuel controller. then can get them both setup together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 I tried making sense of all the bits and pieces I've found and failed I have almost finished plumbing it in, just need to tidy it up and give it a try tommorrow. good luck with the dyno thanks again Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_cbr Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 did this work ? ive got to change how its set up on a friends car as he had it fitted by some one and its all wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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