Blitz twin turbo installation

Fantastic your a credit to the club mate!!

Fantastic your a credit to the club mate!!

Many thanks for your kind words! I hope you'll still be able to say the same when the project is finished!

Well the car has finally gone to the fabricators to have the pipework done.

Hopefully should be back within a week....

Arrgghhh

Spoke to the fabricator yesterday to see how they were getting on.

They said that they hadn't even started on it. It's a lot more work than they thought (although I'd explained it pretty fully)

Anyway, they've re-booked it in for work to start the 2nd week in January!!!!

I would bin them off, except for the fact that the work they do is absolutely top quality (the reason they can't do any work for the next 6 weeks or so is because they're doing a lot of fabricating work for Super Aguri F1)

If I find any other decent fabricators who can do it in the meanwhile I'll get them to do it.

Not happy.

Assuming this has a knock on to mapping? Did Dave call you?

Yes it will mate, I can only apologise for that.

No Dave didn't call me. I guess he's a bit flat chat at the moment.

Yes it will mate, I can only apologise for that.

 

No Dave didn't call me. I guess he's a bit flat chat at the moment.

Ok sure, ILl cancel that appointment. Dave will be calling you Re your build.

Here's a bit more of an update.

As I mentioned I had to get the car trailored to get the remaining pipework to be done. For the entirety of this project the car has been sat on axle stands. Before I could drop the car off of the stands I had to re-fit a couple of parts. Namely the upper front crossmember extension:-

The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 29Nm and the nuts which needed to be torqued to 33Nm. I then re-fitted the front lower arm bracket stay:-

The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 44Nm and the nut to 59Nm. Here's what they look like re-fitted (excuse the fact that it's upside down, the flash caused shadows across the pic otherwise!) Notice lots of anti-sieze grease to help when removing these components in the future:-

Once that was done, I could drop the car back onto the wheels.

Before the pipework was to be fabricated, I wanted to make sure that everything that could be put back onto the car was, so that the guy knew where he could and couldn't run the pipework. So I fitted as many of the oil fittiings as possible. The actual oil lines aren't fitted as I will route these around the pipework once that's done, but at least by doing this he will know that there is going to be something there, and not leave me without any space to fit them. Here's the rear turbo oil feed fitting:-

I also fitted the hose from the heater matrix to the no2 water bypass hose (pipe running vertically through this pic:-

I also fitted the return fitting for the oil feed. This is usually done with a block that has a 45 degree fitting screwed into it with a hose fitting fitted to that. The reason for the 45 degree fitting is that you need to avoid a stud and nut that's on the power steering pump. As I didn't have a fitting for this, I made my own using 10mm thick aluminium. I cut the ally to using the stock return as a template. I wanted to guarantee that the fitting would end up in the right direction to clear the stud/nut, and have some control over where it was going to end up pointing, and as I was needed 2 feeds, I decided instead of the usual 45degree fitting to go for this little assembly:-

Which consisted of a M18 to -6 male to male convertor, with a M18 copper washer to prevent leaks. Then a -6/-6 male to -6 female 'T' going to a -6 straight to hose on one side and a -6 90 degree to hose on the other. It fitted a treat (Note the stuf and nut directly below the fitting in this pic):-

When fitting this I also replaced the gasket which was part no. Y15472-46010.

Looking good sir. Are you not worried that -6 is a little small for oil return ???

I then had a bit of a decision to make. I never really liked the way that the two pipes on the water outlet are blanked off with a piece of hose that goes from one pipe to the other.

It never seems very professional to me. I had already decided that I was going to clean it up anyway, so I removed it by undoing the two bolts shown here:-

And undoing the clip to the rad hose:-

Then it's a case of pulling it off of the no.1 water bypass pipe. It's a bit tight as it's got a couple of rubber O'rings to stop it from leaking, but with a bit of waggling back and forth it soon came off. Here you can see the O'ring on the no.1 water bypass pipe.:-

With the water outlet removed, I then pulled the two pipes out using a pair of stilsons. This was quite easy for the first one but really hard for the second, but they did come out:-

With that done I then set about blanking the holes, and my Dad came through with some water blanking plugs that he uses at work. (Thanks Dad! ) I also gave it a bit of clean-up in a sandblaster. Before doing this I decided to remove the two sensors. The larger one came out really easy. The smaller one... Boy what a pain in the arse this was! First of all the nut part of the connector rounded off, then when I tried to mole grip / stilson it out it disintegrated into about a million parts. So I tried to easy out the remainder, but as the metal was so soft, the easy out was just forming a reverse thread! SO I had to resort to drilling out the remaining brass and then re-tapping it. IIRC it was an 8.7 drill and a 3/8 BSP tap - the water temp sensor itself has a taper thread on it so I used PTFE tape when re-fitting. The part no. Y83420-20040, although there was an option of two, but this one seemed to fit OK.

Anyway here's the blanking plugs:-

You can see that they fit flush:-

Ohh i like that!!!!

Btw jst read through all this. well impressed! Gd job!

The top sensor here was the one that gave me problems:-

And here's the water outlet re-fitted :-

Other bits and bobs, well I fitted the engine hook on the exhaust side which you can see in the above picture. The bolts need to be torqued to 39Nm.

I also received a few bits back from the powder coaters. Here's the throttle control cable bracket:-

And with the rubber piece re-fitted (I used some WD40 on the rubber to help push it on):-

and the chamber stay:-

and also the inlet manifold stay:-

Here's the throttle control cable bracket and the chamber stay test fitted (the inlet manifold will be coming off again to final fit everything else under the manifold) :-

Other than that I received the Air filter for the idle solenoid:-

And that is pretty much it. Hopefully if the weather holds for the next few days I'll be able to get some more done

Cheers

Looking good sir. Are you not worried that -6 is a little small for oil return ???

Nah, it's a -4 feed, and the restrictor hole in the Blitz supplied fitting as absolutely tiny (maybe 3mm max!) so basically twin -6's (although I agree it's going to a single -6 after the T) should be OK.

Here's the hole in the feed to the turbo:-

Ohh i like that!!!!

 

Btw jst read through all this. well impressed! Gd job!

Cheers, it's certainly been hard work up to this point. Not quite as bad though as the frustration in it having taken so long though

Anwyay nearly there!

Should be ok bud,

Usually most returns are a fair bit bigger even with restrictors for DBB to promote free flow.For reference most if not all after market feeds are -4 and that's on singles twins and DBB

Oil can get , for want of a better word, "whipped" up on exit of the return. You want the oil out of the turbo to get out as fast as possible in order to have fresh oil sitting on the bearing, hence the return should really be a "gravity or least resistance path" return instead of pressure. The stock system is a good indicator of this, that you took of, the return is much bigger than the feed. HKS twins for example also have the restrictor feed but the return is almost -10. Not a knock but just a highlight.

Top notch install, very neat and fantastic write up which will help loads of people out. keep up the good work . We need more like this!

Tony,

make the return at least 10 an, i would recommend even bigger since you have twins

Trust me we faced problems even with 8 an returns.

Dimitri

I agree the return isn't big enough, sorry dude, but after all this work I'd hate to see you have a problem.

I agree too. Not because I have a clue what I'm talking about, but I'm in an agreeable mood today and as Alex said, I'd be pi*sed if something went wrong later on.

The 5 P's my friend: Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance.

Good luck!

Greg

Just thought id bump this, its an Awesome thread!!

Has helped me so often during my own stripdown, and its about to help me more tomorrow as i remove my intake runners and remove the pulsation dampener, the pressure cannister and bung up some holes.

Nice one mr L

Wow is all I can say, possibly one of the best threads on the site, incredible attention to detail and well explained. Look forward to reading more on this as you progress. Keep up the amazing work.

Tony,

 

make the return at least 10 an, i would recommend even bigger since you have twins

 

Trust me we faced problems even with 8 an returns.

 

Dimitri

I agree the return isn't big enough, sorry dude, but after all this work I'd hate to see you have a problem.

Cheers guys. Rather than start a discussion here, I've created a seperate thread (just to keep this one tidy ) Check here:- http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=1184675#post1184675

I managed to get a chunk of work done on the fuel pump hanger assy as this has been sat on the side for quite some time now.

As I mentioned previously, a -8 90degree fitting will not fit under the fuel tank inspection cover. To get around this problem, I decided to use a -8 banjo fitting:-

The problem with this is that the WOTM fuel hanger isn't thick enough to be able to screw a banjo bolt in from one side and then an hose adaptor on the other side to connect to the pumps.

So to get around this, I machined the opening from 3/4 to 22.5mm OD and tapped it M24 x 1.5. I then machined a 25mm OD piece of steel bar so that it had a 24mm OD end the same thickness as the hanger and then cut an M24 x 1.5 thread onto that. I then drilled the centre of it 11/16" and then tapped it to 3/4-16 to fit the -8 fitting.

I could then screw this into the top of the hanger, which essentially extends the thread depth so that I could fit it all. In this pic you can see the metal boss (I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow):-

I also did the same thing for the return feed, but this time machined it to suit -6 rather than -8.

I then started to turn my attention to wiring the pumps in. As has been mentioned many times, the stock set-up isn't man enough to run two pumps at potentially 30amps each. The wiring gauge is nowhere near big enough. Another pain was the fact that the pigtail on the connector for the Walbro's I have aren't quite long enough.

So to sort this out I completely took apart the connectors for the pumps and the stock connector. I then stripped the wires from the terminals and re-crimped/re-soldered some wire rated to 35 amps.

I've connected the positives of both pumps to the stock bulkhead connector, and will connect the earths of both pumps to the hanger itself, which will in turn be earthed.

I didn't get any pics of the connectors dissassembled (there was a massive amount of effing and blinding!)

I tested them out by running 12 volts through them, and the earths grounded to the hanger and it seemed to work pretty well. All I have to do now is to securely connect the earth's using a couple of nordlock washers (I really don't want them working loose!!! ) and that's one job ticked off....

Mate thats some awesome workmanship your doing there. Good work.

Mate thats some awesome workmanship your doing there. Good work.

Well it helps if you've got access to a half decent machine shop :-

It's all a bit archaic but it's all kept in good nic. We've got a pucka 5 axis cnc arriving sometime in the next month or two...

Oooo nice