Blitz twin turbo installation

As some of you may be aware I bought a Blitz twin turbo kit a couple of weeks ago and seeing as there's not many of these kit's about I thought I would do a complete step by step write up of the installation.

To start of with, I'll explain about the kit. The kit consists of two KKK450R turbo's, which I'm told are 61.5mm turbo's with a .73 hotside (thanks Usmann A!)*Edit* Just found some more info on these turbo's.

Compressor wheel inducer dia = 54.9

Compressor wheel ex dia = 76.2

Compressor housing inlet dia = 70

Compressor housing ex dia = 60

Turbine Wheel inducer dia = 64.4

Turbine wheel ex dia = 54.6

Exhaust Flange = K26

Taken from here:- http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/turbokit/turbo-charger.htm

Here's a couple of pics:-

Further information about these turbo's seems to be very difficult to come by.

The kit also comes with exhaust manifold or header, which is a tubular steel construction. There has been much said as to wether this will, in the future crack due to the unsupported weight of the turbo's. To safe-guard against this, I'm planning to create a brace that will bolt onto a stud welded onto the manifold, and the stock brace location on the engine.

Lastly the kit comes with a pair of Blitz D47D wastegates. Initially these appear to be set-up to open about 1.3Bar, but there is a nut on the top which will allow some fine adjustment of this.

Everything else will need to be fabricated. This includes the downpipe, air inlet pipe (from air filter) and the turbo outlet pipie (to the intercooler)

One last thing that does not come with the kit, and requires to be made, is the oil feed and return lines to the turbo's, and also wastegate actuation lines (ie from the compressor housing) All of these lines I will be making myself using off the shelf aeroquip components.

In terms of goals, I'm aiming for a healthy 600 - 650 bhp, which will be an easy 275 - 300 bhp increase in what I currently have. I know these turbo's can create in excess of 800 bhp, however my desire for engine longevity, and a restrictive budget means that I won't be able to aim for these kind of high figures in the short to medium term.

As far as how I'm going about the complete installation, I'm basically breaking it down into 8 distinct stages. They are:-

1. Strip stock sequential turbo's.

2. Pre-fit Blitz twin turbo's.

3. Fabricate downpipe, IC pipe, turbo air inlet pipe/ turbo brace.

4. Strip Blitz twin turbo's down and send away for ceramic coating/polishing

5. Strip stock fuel system.

6. Install custom fuel system.

7. Final fit Blitz twin turbo's.

8. Engine mapping.

Unfortunately I don't get much time to work on the car, so am only able to work on it at the weekends. That said, I'm hoping to have the car finished in about 8 weeks.

So to start off with here's how to strip the stock turbo's.....

Another fantastic Tony write up is on its way I feel

Tools you'll need:-

You won't need any particular specialist tools, just a good 1/2" and 3/8" socket set with both normal and deep 12mm/14mm and 17mm sockets. A couple of 6 inch extensions wouldn't go amiss, as well as a universal joint for the 1/2" drive, a breaker bar, and a lot of WD40! A good set of spanners ranging from 10mm to 17mm, a set of axle stands and a jack would be useful too.

So to start off with, safety first, we'll remove the battery negative terminal:-

Next you'll want to drain the coolant. I didn't do this, and regretted it later when it caught me out by surprise, so a word from the wise... do it now!

Next you want to disconnect both the cruise control actuator cable and tuck it out of the way:-

and then do the same with the accelerator cable. I tucket it along the firewall:-

Next remove the air inlet duct:-

Loosen the jubliee clip around the hose from the air box to the turbo inlet and remove the hose. (It will take some jiggling to do this!)

Your engine bay should now look like this:-

Next undo the three bolts fixing the air box, and remove it (Not you can see the duct that feeds cold air into the air box from the bumper):-

Next you'll need to get under the car. So now's a good time to jack the car up. Ensure the car's on a level base, and jack the car up using the jacking points that can be found here:-

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=44357&highlight=jacking+points

OK so with the car jacked up, you need to remove the catalytic convertor. To do this there's a couple of brackets and things that you need to remove to give you enough space to get the catalytic convertor out. So first of all you want to remove this brace. There's 2 bolts at the rear and 1 at the front which I had to use the breaker bar to undo:-

Just above the brace, you'll find this bracket. Undo the 4 bolts and remove it:-

Next you need to remove this bracket:-

To get to the bolts for this bracket I had to temporarily remove both the clutch inspection covers, you can clearly see the bolt hole for the inspection cover, and the top of the bolt for the catalytic convertor bracket. There's 1 bolt on either side of the gearbox:-

The last bolt for the bracket is one of the mating bolts for the cat/exhaust itself. Undo this and the bracket should now come away:-

If you now undo the other bolt that's holding the cat to the exhaust, and then undo the three bolts at the top of the catalytic convertor, the car should come away fairly easily. Remember there's a catalytic convertor temp probe attached. We'll remove this in a bit. Here's a pic of the downpipe with the catalytic convertor removed. You can see the three fixings. If these are difficult to undo, use plenty of WD40 and leave overnight. Luckily, mine weren't too bad...

Fantastic work

By this point you've probably got fed up of lying under the car, so let's get out from under there and undo some stuff on the top.

The toyota manual says to remove the harness protector at this point. It says to remove two bolts, but I'll be damned if I can find the one near the drivers side. So I undid the one on the passengers side and left it at that.

Now comes the bit that I found a real pain. Removing the air lines over the top of the turbo's.

First of all you need to remove the water by-pass hose, if you've not drained the coolant system yet, do it before you undo this, or get plenty of paper towels to soak up the coolant as you undo it:-

Next unclip both of the connectors to the vsv's and move the loom right out of the way:-

Next you need to remove the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's. IF you remove all the hoses to the VSV's and undo the 2 bolts (IIRC?) You've done the easy bit.

Now if you follow the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's towards the back of the engine you'll find 4 lines going down the back of the 2nd turbo near the bulkhead. You need to undo all 4 of these. Don't worry if you struggle because the clips are facing the wrong way or just difficult to remove, I did too! In the end I beat it by using a pair of pliers on the clip, and a screwdriver pushed up against the end of the hose, and pushing hard with the screwdriver whilst I compressed the clip with the pliers. A real pain, but once those last 4 hoses are undone you can remove the hard-piping:-

Next if you remove the wastegate actuator VSV by undoing the 2 bolts and undo the hoses to the wastegate actuator which are on the front of the number 1 turbo. The grey connector attached to the bracket is for the stock narrow band o2 sensor. If you undo this from the backet by using a small flat bladed screw driver where it's clipped on:-

You should end up with a bit that looks like this:-

OK next if you remove the water hoses to the turbo. If you've not drained your engine coolant by now, you're about to one way or another. I strongly suggest you do it via the rad, and not by just undoing this hose. After all that would be a school boy error.

Undo the other 2 hoses as well:-

Next you want to remove the bolt to the upper water hose. I had to go a bit off-plan here as I had a non-stock dump-valve, so I removed that first. Anyway you can see the bolt you need to get to here. It's the blurred one in in the middle:-

Next undo the vent hose:-

and loosen all of the jubilee clips that you can get to on the top:-

Great write-up Tony.

That coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head that goes to the heater matrix is a right bugger to get off. Getting it back on is damn near impossible.

After 20mins I gave up trying to the fit the OE sprung clip back on and used a jubilee clip instead.

90o Pliers will do the trick. Went out and got them for that very job one apon a time.

Some great pics there Tony.

agree with Jake, i imagine its bad enough doing this let alone fannying around taking pics every 5 minutes so top marks from me

Nicely done

NIce one Tony!

~edited~ Should've read the first couple of posts! DOH!

Wow awesome write up! one thing tho, how much was the turbo kit cos i think i might be due for a new set up, not of my choice tho!

Next if you undo the nuts holding the no.1 turbo inlet hose, and the bolts holding the no.1 turbo outlet hose, and the nuts to the no.2 turbo inlet hose:-

Now with a large amount of wriggling the no.1 and no.2 turbo inlet pipe and the no.1 outlet pipe (and maybe an extra hand) you should be able to remove the inlet pipe. (It took me a quite a bit of wriggling, and I couldn't describe the exact way, but perservere and you'll get it!):-

You're engine bay should now look like this:-

Now you can go ahead and remove the rest of the turbo outlet pipes right up to the no2 turbo outlet:-

Now your engine bay should look like this:-

Next if you undo the four bolts holding the heat shield and remove it:-

Notice how I placed paper towel into the turbo inlet's. Don't want anything getting in there and damaging them for the next potential owner

Just one for those who hadn't seen it before, but to the lower right of the turbo you can see the wastegate actuator:-

OK next it's time to remove the stock 02 sensor:-

This is what mine looked like after 100K miles of use:-

As I'm not going to be using this sensor with the twin kit, I decided to completely remove it:-

The grey connector I spoke of earlier:-

O2 sensor and loom:-

I may well keep the bracket, and cut the grey connector off the o2 sensor, and wire it up to my EGT probe so it will work with the stock loom.

Damn Tony. Top Notch! A write up to be envied and followed for sure. Way to go establishing the benchmark!

The next bit was as much of a pain as getting the hoses off earlier....

Removing the Exhaust gas control valve. This sounds a very simply thing to remove. There's a bracket which has a bolt and a nut to undo, and then there's 3 bolts, and the whole assembly "should" just come away.

I spent about 10 minutes trying to get a photo of the 3 nuts. Unfortunately my digi cam is an SLR, and it's a little large for getting into tight spaces. I managed to get a picture of this nut underneath:-

And you can just make out a second nut in the gloom of this pic. There was no way I could get to this bolt from underneath. The stud for the o2 sensor is just below the stud for this nut, so I couldn't use a socket, so get at it from the top use a spanner and a breaker bar to leaver the spanner to get it to budge. Not the best way to undo things but needs must:-

There's a 3rd nut 120degree's around the pipe. To get this undone I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joing and about 9" of extension bars. It was a real pain, but it came off in the end.

Onec the bolts are undone the assembly comes apart in 2 sections:-

Be careful not to drop or bang the second section if you're looking to keep the valve as apparently the valve is ceramic.

Here you can clearly see the bolt arrangement.

OK that's me for the moment. Will hopefully attack it again maybe thursday or friday evening, and finish stripping them off over the weekend.

That coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head that goes to the heater matrix is a right bugger to get off. Getting it back on is damn near impossible.

After 20mins I gave up trying to the fit the OE sprung clip back on and used a jubilee clip instead.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean. I split the other hose about a year ago and undid this hose to get to it, so I replaced the clip with a new one then, otherwise I think I would have struggled more.

agree with Jake, i imagine its bad enough doing this let alone fannying around taking pics every 5 minutes so top marks from me

Cheers Scooter, it's not the time it takes to do the pictures, it's remembering to take one at each stage, and not just rush on and undo the next bit. I can see myself forgetting to take a pic of a fundamental stage and having to bolt bits back on!

Wow awesome write up! one thing tho, how much was the turbo kit cos i think i might be due for a new set up, not of my choice tho!

Thanks for your kind words! The exact same kit, brand new, as mine is, is I believe, still available here :-

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=67521&highlight=blitz+twin+turbo

However you can expect to spend probably at least £2.5-3K on top for fabricating/IC/fuel system/ and mapping. If you don' already have a programmable ECU of some kind, that will also need to be factored in.

Great write up Tony, very informative, keep it coming

Once it's done I'll poach it for the Tech articles if you don't mind Tony

Seeing the stockers getting removed in such detail gives me flashbacks

-Ian

Managed to do a little bit more this evening.....

The next step is to remove the turbo support brackets. There's two of them, here's a pic of the no.2 turbo stay:-

and this was the best shot I could get of the number 1 turbo stay upper fixing. I had to get to this by reaching up in front of the steering rack:-

No word of a lie, this is what I used to get these un-done. Really I could have done with a deep 14mm socket due to the length of the stud, but I didn't have one for 1/2"drive, and only had enough extensions for 1/2", I loosened the socket so it wasn't fully clipped onto the universal joint, and it just about managed to work:-

Here's the number 1 turbo stay removed:-

and number 2:-

Next I removed the oil feed/return for both turbo's. This was a real pain of a job, as again I had to use a ridiculous number of extensions to get to the nuts on the bottom of the turbo. Here's where it joins onto the bottom of the number 2 turbo (the easy one to get to!):-

Here's where the feed from on the engine block is. I used a 19mm socket to remove it. Make sure you put some towel under this banjo bolt as you undo it, as there was still quite a bit of oil in this pipe:-

I just about managed to get this pic of the oil feed banjo bolt for the no.1 turbo. Sorry for the quality, but it's a real tight squeeze! For reference This was taken from just below and in front of where the steering column meets the steering rack:-

I really struggled with removing the turbo oil feed hoses. Basically, as you can see in this pic, you need to seperate the hoses where the metal hard lines meet the rubber hose. After 13 years of being in 1 piece these were a real pain to undo, and took me some amount of time. As I'm not going to be using the oil return housing I removed that at the same time. I took a few shots of the bore diameters for reference. I'll try to remember to take a rule with me next time and get some with it in for scale reference:-

Turbo inlet and return diameter:-

Oil return housing diameter:-

Unfortunately, that's all I managed today, but hopefully on Saturday I'll be able to finish off removing the turbo's.....

good stuff Tony,keep up the good work!