Fuel Pump

Im thinking of changing the fuel pump on my UK BPU+ TT.

Theer are no know problems im just thinking at 10 years old the original is probably past its best and as im running higher boost its probably a worthwhile maintenance replacement?

The question is, should i replace with a standard UK pump? if not what would be a better alternative?

And how easy are these to fit as a DIY job?

Dave :flame Dev

"Theer are no know problems im just thinking"

I've bought a UK spec fuel pump for my Tiptronic, it's got a higher output than the Walbro. It'll cost you more than a Walbro though.

They're a piece of cake to fit. 30mins max

Anyone bought one of these pumps from the states?

Might be worth looking into at the current exchange rate

cheers

mark

I'm looking to get one too - same reasons as you really Dave, mine is old and there doesn't seem to be an upgrade that's better than the UK... how much are UK pumps normally?

Maybe we could pick up a box of them from Russia or something?

Been on the piss Dave?

 

 

I've bought a UK spec fuel pump for my Tiptronic, it's got a higher output than the Walbro. It'll cost you more than a Walbro though.

 

They're a piece of cake to fit. 30mins max

And it will draw more current than the walboro , where did you see that it has a higher output than a walboro ?????

You can allways up the voltage to the walboro and it hten outperfoms the UK for sure

Dude :littled:

where did you see that it has a higher output than a walboro ?????

HERE

HERE

There was a thread that showed the various flow rates i was hoping youd come up with that , like i said once you crank up the voltage the walboro flows more , i have a new FSE if you need it , going cheap !!!!

Dude

I'll send you an email in a minute John, there's a few things I need to ask you.

I'll send you an email in a minute John, there's a few things I need to ask you.

Your wish is my command oh fat handed one !!!!!

Are you coming to Belgium ??? they have heard tales of the 'mighty one who smokes whilst screaming and balancing a car on one hand ' !!!!!

Dude

I have a shipment of UK brakes coming over from the USA. Do you want me to enquire on the cost of the fuel pumps?

I have a shipment of UK brakes coming over from the USA. Do you want me to enquire on the cost of the fuel pumps?

They would be US pumps though !!!!!

Dude

Without wishing to sound a complete numpty, I thought the US and UK spec were the same?

Without wishing to sound a complete numpty, I thought the US and UK spec were the same?

They are !!!!!

Dude

I have been offered them for about £175 including taxes and delivery to a UK address. Is that a good price?

do you have to cut OEM wiring and solder when you fit an aftermarket pump such as a walbro in a supra?? or does everything just slide into place? Wheres the fitting guide for a walbro pump - i've searched but cant find one?

CJ i think that is a good price from memory but will try and get details from Toyota, would you include in your order? and when would you need to know by?

John how easy is it to swap the pumps out for your average at home give it a go geeza?

Dave

and Jake i wasnt pissed, but im trying.....

CJ i think that is a good price from memory but will try and get details from Toyota, would you include in your order? and when would you need to know by?

The brake order is being finalised tomorrow evening so would need to know by then really.

Terminals on JDM and Uk pumps are different so chop the plug and solder.

Getting the cover off the tank can be difficult. Mine was easy.

Dude I have flow charts showing the UK outflows the Walbro's. Yes the draw more current, but not really the issue on a single pump

I recently did my walbro and like Terminator says, you have to chop off the old terminal and solder/crimp on the new one. I borrowed an electrician friend to do the soldering but it is extremely easy. I got this advice from Matt on how to do it. Im sure he wouldnt mind me printing it here:

1. open boot

2. remove boot cover and spare wheel

3. remove 6 bolts from around the fuel tank access cover, (directly under the spare wheel)

4. remove all pipework and wiring harness. keep a cloth handy as you're about to be spayed with fuel! (3 pipes, two are only on with clips, one banjo bolt, don't lose the washers,!)

5. remove large jubilee clip from sealing ring, then remove the sealing ring (this is easiest done with a massive pair of pliers, but can be done by tapping the ring with a large flat screwdriver and a hammer anticlockwise. Make sure you don't tap the screwdriver through the plastic ring.

6. carefully lift out fuel pump cage assembly

7. remove old fuel pump, (unclips at the bottom, and has a hose and wiring connector at the top.

8. solder or crimp the new pump wiring loom making sure it's the correct length, (make sure that the connection is well insulated, and not with insulation tape as this will disintigrate in fuel)

9. re-fit new pump assembly in the same manor that the old one came off, (don't forget the little retaining clip that holds the filter bag to the base of the pump)

10. carefully re-insert pump cage assembly

11. refit sealing ring, (this is the hardest part, it's a bugger to get it on, and I'd guess this is the bit that will take you the longest. We've found that if you spray lubricant on the thread, then start it by hand, and resort to tapping with a hammer screwdriver again, (clockwise obviously), if the ring pops out of the thread slightly, tap it around a little bit more, then tap down the edge thats sticking up)

12. refit big jubilee clip

13. re-fit hoses and wiring. (When you re-fit the main fuel line banjo bolt, you need to hold the whole assembly as spanner tightning will move it all out of line. Also, remember to put the small washers either side of the banjo bolt)

14. start car and check for fuel leaks. (car may stall at first as you've now lost fuel pressure and it'll take a little time to get back there)

15. if all is well, refit access plate, spare wheel and boot gubbing.

16. clean up, have a cup of tea and feel good about saving yourself money and sucessfully doing a worthy modification all by yourself...

All i would add to this is, when you take the assembly out to do the soldering and swapping, choose where you're going to do it as youll make the room smell of petrol. Afterwards, I let the car idle for a bit and it ran fine, first time and no stalling.

thats excellent getrag thankyou - a walbro is a great mod for making sure everythings running nice and safe and you arent leaning off, it's also a good base for starting your tuning as well. I aim to do all the preliminary bits such as fuel pump before i do the double decat and boost controller mods later on

Terminals on JDM and Uk pumps are different so chop the plug and solder.

You have to chop the plug off a Walbro to fit it in a Jspec but I don't know if you have to do this when fitting a Walbro in a UK Supra like Dave's.

I was hoping the UK spec and Jspec pumps has the same terminal plugs because I'm putting a UK spec fuel pump in my VVTi soon and I'd prefer to use the stock wiring. It's really no problem though.

If I was Dave I'd definitely replace my UK pump with another UK one.

One thing to add to Getrags very good description - before you disconnect the fuel lines (or do anything involving taking fuel lines to bits), disconnect the wiring and crank the engine a few times. That will relieve the pressure in the fuel lines which means you won't get sprayed with petrol under pressure when you disconnect the hoses.

One thing to add to Getrags very good description - before you disconnect the fuel lines (or do anything involving taking fuel lines to bits), disconnect the wiring and crank the engine a few times. That will relieve the pressure in the fuel lines which means you won't get sprayed with petrol under pressure when you disconnect the hoses.

wouldnt it also be a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump fuse first too?

wouldnt it also be a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump fuse first too?

Doesn't matter if you've disconnected the wiring harness! I'm not sure if there's a fuse that is for the pump only and not other stuff so I just disconnected the plug on the fuel pump ECU last time I did anything fuel related. If you're changing the fuel pump and have the cover off the fuel tank area you can just disconnect the electrical plug there.