Crank Pulley Death Wobble

This is the early stage of TT crank pulley failure

Possible candidate for sticky tech FAQ.

(9meg clip)

http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q55/Devilstorque/?action=view&current=62b43e3d.flv

Good video for reference. Nice one Phil

Unfortunately the air from the rotating fan hitting the mic covers the slight oscillating noise from the belt.

That looks much more like a loose fitting pulley on the crank itself, which is very bad news as the crank nose and keyway will be worn, as well as the ID of the pulley. They can also jam up on the *uggered keyway when you try to pull them off. Hopefully I am wrong, but it looks to me that the WHOLE pulley, inner and outer, is wobbling, not just the elastomer bonded outer ring.

TBH I never really looked at it that closely, but having a good look at it today I think you are right Chris.

Oh well if it lets go, I have another little power plant ready to install, then rebuild the wobbly pulley engine as a spare.

Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.

Thankfully the crank and centre section of the pulley were perfect and a new pulley solved it.

Will steal this for a tech article shortly, thanks Termi

Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.

 

Thankfully the crank and centre section of the pulley were perfect and a new pulley solved it.

 

Will steal this for a tech article shortly, thanks Termi

Is there any really early signs of detecting this? any unusal early behavior?

Is there any really early signs of detecting this? any unusal early behavior?

An early sign is a slight squeal from the front of the engine when the auxiliary devices are under load such as when the AC is on, the steering under full lock and the rpm low. Like for example, reversing out of a drive. Mine failed only 50 or so miles after this started.

Class One recently had exactly the same symptoms.

Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.

TBH I can't see the diffrence from the vid, but I trust your word Jake

Have to agree on one part thought - the outer ring was moving around a great deal more than in the video -a much more pronouced forward/back movement. I really should have recorded it.

Ive got through 2 of these now, currently on the third (both replacements have been second hand so thats my own fault) Is there anything stronger? Also, I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-Lexus-CS-GS300-RX300-Engine-Crank-Pulley_W0QQitemZ220133837213QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Worth alook at all?

Thanks

(btw, i too had squealing from my first 1 that went ether at low revs or on full lock, the previous time happened when I let off on a high speed run.)

I really should have recorded it.

One never thinks of these things at the time though. You just want your car fixed (Well, that's what I'm like anyway)

Ive got through 2 of these now, currently on the third (both replacements have been second hand so thats my own fault) Is there anything stronger? Also, I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-Lexus-CS-GS300-RX300-Engine-Crank-Pulley_W0QQitemZ220133837213QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Worth alook at all?

 

Thanks

First off (as you probably know), the 2nd failure should have said that a scrapper item wouldn't be much good (though I have fitted one myself, many thanks Jake )

And on that item you mention - hell no! That’s not even dampened! Though I prefer stock stuff over aftermarket, if you have to go aftermarket then it has to be the BL one, though it will cost you big money. It's dampened at least.

I thought due to the Crank pulley sticking out, this causes the V belt to rotate in an angle causing the Squeel?

Use a feeler gauge inbetween the inner and outer Crank Pulley. If it's near to 32 mm then it's about to split off! A new one has a gap of only 1.3 mm or less.

Ro

This was fortunately just the outer, trying to part company with the inner. The inner was firmly and correctly, fitted to the crank snout. I will post up some pics of the two parts now separate. They will be quite surprising.

What's a fair price on a BL one nowadays?

Mate get it looked at asap

That looked exactly the same as mine when my pully was loose !

It destroyed the woodruff key and opened the key slot on the crank, luckly it did not damage the crank end.

Toyoda Tech managed to get his machinest to sort the problem but i warn you its not cheap ..... AT ALL if this needs to be done..... I have no issues since the new key and pully have been replaced, in fact its never run smoother

(although i did do a full cambelt and service as well while the front was off)

Hi all

Can someone tell me how to get the old pulley off as mine broke the other week

I made a proper puller that will even remove ones that have separated.

I cannot even get the bolt un-done

3/4 drive air gun or lock up the crank and a 3/4 drive breaker bar and decent socket, no problem. If you are struggling I'd farm it out to a garage, unless you have the proper gear you may well do more harm than good.

Mate get it looked at asap

 

That looked exactly the same as mine when my pully was loose ........................................

Mine was just the outer the inner was fine and the crank snouts is fine no damage. The Woodruff key was just as it should be. The crank bolt was FT, needed the breaker/starter trick to get it undone. Puller was 3/8 steel plate custom made;)

Think im gonna send it to the garage as im having no luck gettin this off

Is there anywhere in the uk that i can buy a BL pully from or will it have to come from the US ?

Unfortunately we have thrown away the parts. However unbelievably the outer had completely separated from the inner and was laying in the under tray. The belt did not come off it some how stayed on the rubber of the inner hub and neatly cut grooves into the rubber. The only thing that let me know some thing was wrong was my battery kept going flat. Being over three years old, I assumed the battery was on the way out. With my big single build only weeks away, and a boot battery as part of the plans, I just kept a jump pack in the car. In reality, the tensioner was at its limit and the belt was not tight enough to enable the alternator to charge up the battery. I have no idea how long it had been like that, or how much longer it would have kept the belt on. A total fluke:blink:

Boost logic has a big problem, so all on back order but titan does one which boost logic sells.Call boost logic they ll sell u one