Autobox whining and not changing up

My autobox started making a funny whinning noise that sounded tin'y, Drove it home and it wasnt changing up gears properly and got worse over the 10 mile drive.

Stoped at the lights at my house, and when i went to pull away it wouldnt go into drive ,

I switched the engine off , restated the car, put it into drive and it pulled away and it was very juddery but pulled away and it stayed in the same gear.

Next day i checked the fluid and it looked like there was a bit much in it, :thumbdown

I had the car rolling roaded 2 days before it happened and it was making 451@wheels on the wastegate alone, So im not sure if ive cooked the torque converter or gearbox or both

Anyone had this problem ?

Im i aswell just replacing the autobox and the converter at the same time ?

K.

Just a long shot- have you had any probs with your spped converter and delimiter; mine failed last week and auto box went crackers just like that.

New unit fitted and it went back to normal.

52

Only had the car a week

Not noticed any problemd with the speed convertor or delimiter as such.

K.

Bummer, sorry for you m8

however I mentioned it cos mine wouldnt move off and I couldnt get reverse so it is a possibility.

52

It wont select reverse aswell, I forgot to write that, It will pull away but i need to rev it hard and its very stuttery, whats involved in changing the speed converter/delimiter as ive never had to do this before

K.

Check the fluid level and probably renew the fluid - Toyota Type IV only.

What mods have you got to get 451 at the wheels on an Autobox???

That would require over 600 at the fly!

If you are producing that much power a TH400 auto box maybe in order and a 3200+ stall converter.

Ive changed the fluid for redline Gshock ATF fluid, Never made a difrence.

I have a boostlogic T67, emange, hks cams, 650cc injectors and other bits and bobs, The car should run 1.6 bar but my AVCR valve had packed in (now sorted)

It made 451@wheels on AVA's rollers in glasgow, unfortunitly they dont give flywheel or torque figures, and the 451 was made at 1.1bar with inlet temps of 30-33degrees through the whole session.

I have orginised a 3800stall convertor from Vortex, Just need to sort a oil cooler for the transmission and possibly a auto box...

K.

Converter is probably behind dash.

There are a lot of info. posts on here (search)

is the spoiler going down too, mine was so car thought it was doing 60 hence all the probs with the box. Youd have to remove the little unit and wire back up to std to check - someone who knows better will be along shortly ; Im a coward someone else fitted me a new one.

52

Ive changed the fluid for redline Gshock ATF fluid, Never made a difrence.

 

 

K.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong but you should be using Toyota Type IV ONLY

Not an aftermarket variant like redline G whatever... I would guess that might have a lot to do with your current autobox issues.

I bought the car on friday, parked it on saterday night, went to totb, bought 2 bottles of the redline ATF, got home on sunday night collected my car and the noise happened.

Drained the fluid, refiiled with redline and it was still there, So it wasnt the Redline fluid that caused it, as it was filled after it happened.

I have no idea what fluid the former keeper used on the car, Though i do know there was too much fluid in the box.

K.

Fair enough... A good plan when buying a used car (especially a highly tuned turbocharged engine) is to usually change all the fluids in the car just for the reason that you stated. You have no idea what the previous owner had done with regards to the fluids and how he/she maintained them...

Like I said regarding the redline... I am fairly certain that using that in the a340e auto transmission is a no-no

Kenny - I've PM'd you about box's etc m8

BTW Alex, from what I've seen AVA's power figures are extremely conservative if anything because of the type of rollers they use. Those rollers may also be a breaker of autoboxes thinking about it... will certainly give the box some extreme abuse the way they load the rollers up so the wheels are hardly turning. Kenny's setup should be good for 600+ RWHP with more boost

How EXACTLY are you measuring the auto box fluid level? It's the commonest mistake i see made. It needs measuring with engine RUNNING, after selecting all geras in succession, and then idled in Park. Measuring with engine stopped will show far too high a level. Draining to suit the full mark with engine stopped results in far too LITTLE oil in the box and failure.

Kenny

We just replaced our box...and we had more or less the same prob as you..only we didnt have the shuddering.

Just started to loose torque..as the engine would spin the box up so much it was hitting 8,000rpm on changes, and took ages to get reverse,and when it did, it would just trundle back.

replaced box and things are now fine.

Andy

Chris

Is it leave the Auto box in Neutral or in Park, I have always left in Neutral with engine running. Please confirm it is in Park and will this make a difference.

Leave it in Park and check the fluid while it is running..

Andy

BTW Alex, from what I've seen AVA's power figures are extremely conservative if anything because of the type of rollers they use. Those rollers may also be a breaker of autoboxes thinking about it... will certainly give the box some extreme abuse the way they load the rollers up so the wheels are hardly turning. Kenny's setup should be good for 600+ RWHP with more boost

wasn't knocking it - and it's totally understandable...didn't know the spec. If it's in the Sig then that's nice but I can't see them

How EXACTLY are you measuring the auto box fluid level? It's the commonest mistake i see made. It needs measuring with engine RUNNING, after selecting all geras in succession, and then idled in Park. Measuring with engine stopped will show far too high a level. Draining to suit the full mark with engine stopped results in far too LITTLE oil in the box and failure.

Ewww I wish I hadn't read this thread. Something else to worry about. I was looking at the fluid level this afternoon. Just pottering like, I don't have a problem (I hope). I notice that the measure at the very end is H (hot?) and higher up is cold. My fluid, at cold, is right up at the cold level. I'm assuming this is okay.

Chris

 

Is it leave the Auto box in Neutral or in Park, I have always left in Neutral with engine running. Please confirm it is in Park and will this make a difference.

Either, same thing from a hydraulics point of view. But park is afer, from a getting run over point of view!

The oil expands when hot, so the H mark is higher up the dipstick than the C mark. Hot is as in after a 10 mile run.

Cheers Chris

I will leave it in Park from now on - Safety and all that, You are the man!

Just started to loose torque..as the engine would spin the box up so much it was hitting 8,000rpm on changes, and took ages to get reverse,and when it did, it would just trundle back.

Is it the time of year or something. I've just got exactly the same problem!

Fluids spot on the mark and in good condition.

Leon's rebuilding mine with uprated clutches and springs and fitting a high stall torque converter at the same time.

Checked my fluid this evening and, despite getting the positions of the hot and cold markers the wrong way round in my last post, I am happy to note that after a twenty mile drive, I left the engine running with the car in park and the fluid was at the hot mark.

This is correct, I hope!

Checked my fluid this evening and, despite getting the positions of the hot and cold markers the wrong way round in my last post, I am happy to note that after a twenty mile drive, I left the engine running with the car in park and the fluid was at the hot mark.

 

This is correct, I hope!

Spot on

Hoorah!