Blitz twin turbo installation

Cut a smaller thread onto that stud that then uses a smaller K nut with a big washer that itself can be ground to fit around the weld/pipe??

i.e. if its an M8 go M6 or M5?

Or get the manifold headed up to cherry red in that area and 'eased' out of the way by bashing the living daylights out of it to make it slightly concave?

I had a couple of nuts like that on my manifold but I was able to get the nut on with the manifold pulled forward slightly. That looks a bit closer than mine though.

Once again great write up Tony.

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. Any suggestions anyone?

 

To fit the BL manifold you angle grind the bottom studs themselves down by about 6mm (one of them a bit more). Still plenty of thread, just that funny end bit gets taken off. Not so sure about the weld though, maybe use 3/4 of a washer under the nut?

-Ian

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I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. Any suggestions anyone?

Could you not remove the studs (Torx socket iirc) and use some slightly shorter ones / grind the ends down? I imagine it'd be a bit of a bastid to do, though. Haven't had the joy of removing my manifold yet!

I would be dubious about grinding the torx head down in case you want to remove or tighten them in the future.

I would be dubious about grinding the torx head down in case you want to remove or tighten them in the future.

You can still do that by locking two bolts together and using one of those to turn the stud. It's more of a PITA though.

You can still do that by locking two bolts together and using one of those to turn the stud. It's more of a PITA though.

As long as the stud isn't too short to fit another bolt on

If it's that short then you're going to have trouble bolting a manifold on there!

Did a bit more work over the weekend. Mainly to do with sorting the last of the fuel hosing out. If anyone is planning on making up their own hoses, don't underestimate how much of a pain it can be!

Here's how you go about making your hoses up...

First of all buy some hose and fittings. I got mine from http://www.thinkauto.com

They're not bad in terms of price and deliver most things next day. If it's not there next day, then it usually means it's not in stock so it'll be a long weight. However that said, it's only the more obscure items like large banko fittings and the like that they struggle on.

Anyway, so get some hose. Install the bits that you want the hose to connect to, and using the hose measure up how long you want it to be. Make sure you give yourself enough length so that you can wind it around items (you don't want it chaffing!) but then you don't want it really tight. Here, I'm checking the length of the hose from the rail to the FPR. I've got the FPR end of the hose already connected up.

Put some masking tape on the hose at the point you want to cut it. You NEED to do this, as you're going to have to hacksaw through the hose. If you don't have the tape (any heavy-ish duty tape will do I suppose) then the hose will fray, and you will never get the connector on:

Then grip the hose horizontally with half the tape sticking out the side of the jaws, and then hacksaw through the tape, and the hose. When you're sawing through, you may feel the blade kind of cathing on the hose. You don't want it to do this, as it's pulling the braid out rather than cutting through it. If there is a little bit of fraying once you've cut through, you can trim it back with some sharp snips. Your hose once cut should look like this:-

Then get your connector. This is a swivelling 90 degree -6 JIC fitting. (The swivel bit means that once the hose is connected you can still rotate the fitting):-

It looks a bit gammy because it's been used before. These types of fittings are prefectly re-usable. Unscrew the hose fitting:-

And fit it over the end of the hose. The easiest way to do this is to place the hose vertically in a vice, with the jaws gripping the hose about an inch and a half below your cut. Then place the fitting on the end of the hose, and push down whilst rotating the fitting. With this particular fitting, I placed a 19mm socket over the top of it and using a t-bar pushed down on it using that. You need to push it ALL THE WAY DOWN, otherwise it will leak, and maybe pop off the hose when you pressurise it up. Here's the end fitting pushed on:-

Then mark the masking tape that's still sticking out right next to the fitting:-

You then take the rest of the fitting and using a spanner to hold the part of the fitting you've just put on, screw in the remaining part. It should be pretty difficult to do:

As you're screwing it in, check that your pen mark doesn't move to far away from the first fitting. If it moves any further than this, then remove the second bit, push the first fitting back on, and start fitting the second bit again:-

Once you've done that, carefully using a knife, trim the tape back:-

Another type of fitting looks like this, it basically has three parts. The first fitting is the same as before, then there is the back bit that fits inside the hose, then the last bit screws into the first bit, but actually cuts into the rubber between the internal bore and the braded outer. This is how it seals:

Cool

So as part of sorting the hoses out, I needed to remove the stock fuel hoses that run from the filter to the tank.

Now, be REALLY carefull here. Remember it is Petrol you're dealing with so take suitable precautions. (You don't want it in your eyes for example!) Don't say I didn't warn you....

So the first thing to do is to remove all the plastic trunking. It's held with a plethora of fixings. You'll need to undo them all

Once that's removed you'll be able to see the feed, return, breather and break lines:

The feed and return lines are obvious as they're the only ones not connected to anything "upstream" anymore.

(note quite sure why the pics have suddenly got smaller. Sorry....)

Now go into the boot, roll back the carpet, and remove the board, and remove the spare wheel. You'll be confronted with this inspection cover:

Remove the 6 nuts and then remove the inspection cover:

Next remove the fuel pump and fuel level sender electrical connector:

Then remove the return hose:

Next remove the fuel tank breather hose:

Next undo the banjo bolt from the feed hose. There's a copper crush washer on it:

With that done, remove the large jubilee clip holding the retaining ring from the hanger assembly:

Now remove the retaining ring. They're notoriously hard to undo. You'll probably have to resort to putting a screwdriver against one of the protrusions and hammering it round.

Once that's removed, you can carefully remove the hanger assembly:

Here's the stock pump:

The bits hanging off the assembly are the fuel level sender. Don't knock these otherwise it will read incorrectly.

Here's what's inside your fuel tank, as well of fuel of course:

Now that the hoses are removed from that end you can remove them from the car completely. They're a right pain as they go over the sub-frame and suspension. I ended up bending mine quite a bit to get the things out.

Then you can feed your new hoses through:

This is the hose fitting inbetween the tank and the tank shield. It's really a pain to fit it through here, but it will go:

In fact a -8 and a -6 will just about fit in there:

However there is a clip that used to hold the old return line, and holds a breather line. To help the hoses fit, I trimed this so that it was just holding the remaining breathre line:

And here's my lines. As you can see the feed line is was still a little long at this point, but the return is just right. After I took this shot, I trimmed the feed line back:

Other than that, I picked up a couple of bits that I'd sent off to be powder coated. I was quite pleased with the results:-

Oh, yes I almost forgot. I also started looking at wiring in the relays for the twin pumps.

I'm thinking of fitting a couple of new fuses in the engine fuse holder. So I removed the distribution board too see what kind of connector I would need.

As you can see there are plenty of spare slots in the bottom row of this pic:

This is the connector I need to get, if anyone knows where I can find these exact same ones, please pm me:

Cheers

OK for reference the part no. of the connector above is 82998-12140. They cost something like £2.50 each.

Anyway, did a little bit of work on the car today. Mainly wiring in the relays for the twin fuel pumps.

I started off by removing the fuel pump ECU as described above. Basically I'm not going to be using this for my install, so I'm going to mount the relays for the pumps where the fuel pump ECU usually can be found.

So anyway, here's the fuel pump ECU in all it's glory:-

Now to mount my relays, I'm going to rob the bracket off the back of this. It's spot welded on in 4 positions. To remove the bracket you need to drill out these welds with a 4.5mm drill bit. Once you've done that the bracket will just come away:-

There are 2 little protusions on the bracket that stop you from mating the bracket to anything flat, so I groung these off, and also tidied up the burr's on the holes I had drilled:-

For the relays I ordered 2 30Amp relays from Farnell. The part no. is RMD05012. However I needed a way to mount these, so I took a 90mm x 80mm piece of flat-stock CFRP, and drilled off a set of 4.5mm holes to suit the relays. I then lined up the bracket I had just salvaged and drilled 4 holes to line up with the ones on the bracket:-

Then it was just a case of riveting the bracket to the carbon using the drilled off holes, and then riveting the relays to the carbon. I decided to use rivets because if you want to use bolts then you have to bond some kind of nut to the carbon, unless you use a rivetted anchor nut, and if the relays ever fail, it's easy enough to drill the rivets out. Anyway:-

just spent the last half hour reading this lol great work mate and job to :-)

Cheers mate!

Bet you cant wait to get her up and running now.

It's off to get the remaining pipework fabricated on the 18th. That will take a week. After that the new pipework and the manifold is going off to be ceramic coated which will take a week, and then it's off to be mapped at mkivstore. The last bit is still to be arranged which is something I'm just about to do....

sounds like so close yet so far ! still im sure all the waiting will be welll worth it mate, look's like its going to be a lot of fun and dame quick to .