VIL

TBH I see little difference in reliability from NA to turbo. My Turbo was brilliant and in all the time I had it never had a breakdown and only one mechanical failure was a steering pump. Turbos seemed fine all the time I had it and apart from a small puff of smoke on start up (usual thing) it ran like a clock even with 120k! Dont be put off a turbo, in stock form they are as reliable IMO as a NA. When you start to mod them, well then your playing a different game and the more you push the more fragility you introduce.

Its the same with any performance related vehicle. To keep it running at an optimal level you are constantly investing time and money. I have had a 911 S2 and BMW 535d M since my Supra and can honestly say that the Supra (over 7 years of ownership) was the most economical of these to maintain with least issues.......whist it might get you down at times there is very little even today that can give so much and cost so little (in relative terms of course).

The MOT tester will rev the car as it is part of the emissions: The MOT testers manual states that for vehicles first used before 1st August 1979 the compression ignition engine emissions test is put at either 2500 engine rpm OR half of maximum engine speed whichever is the lower. For vehicles first used after 1st August 1979 if the engine checks are satisfactory and having removed any oil temperature probe, raise the engine speed to around 2500rpm, or half the maximum engine speed if this is lower, and hold for 30 seconds to fully purge the inlet and exhaust system. Raise engine speed slowly to maximum to check the operation of the governor. Once the engine speed has stabilised or if it becomes clear that the governor is not working, release the pedal, return to idle and stop the engine. Prompt the meter to carry out a zero check. Insert the probe fully and securely, in line with the gas flow. Restart the engine. Following the meter prompts, depress the accelerator pedal quickly and continuously but not violently, to reach full fuel position in less than 1 second With this I was suggesting that there may......just may be a situation where noise then becomes an issue. As most people with screamers have no problems then its unlikely but still possible the MOT tester could get over excited.

Having ridden bikes with race pipes for years the MOT testers discretion on noise is what counts. For a bike if the pipe has 'not for road use' stamped in it then obviously it would not be in his interest to pass it, if it has no markings then there is no visual reason to fail it. He will check for emissions and leaks and can fail on these but not on noise, unless the MOT tester personally feels it is too loud. They have no decibel meters etc so its purely down to the tester discretion. The other side is what Mr Plod thinks, he will note it has no road markings, no baffles and sounds very loud and will make you retest at a MOT station. Of course in this time your pipe will miraculously grow baffles or maybe change size, shape and colour With a screamer pipe, unless it was leaking or giving off excessive noise which under MOT conditions it may not then there should be no reason to fail in accordance with the regulations. However, under MOT the tester will rev the car hard as part of the MOT emissions test and you wouldnt want the thing to be howling its head off giving rise to a fail. I believe the official line is: With the engine running assess subjectively the effectiveness of the silencer in reducing exhaust noise to a level considered to be average for the vehicle. It will then fail if the exhaust system is in a condition, or of such a type, that the noise emitted from the vehicle is clearly unreasonably above the level expected from a similar vehicle with a silencer in average condition. Its all very vague and subjective!

You can try running McAfee Stinger - its free and a one off program to try and remove the worst of whats out there at the moment but is not comprehensive and wont get everything. http://www.mcafee.com/us/downloads/free-tools/how-to-use-stinger.aspx The unfortunate truth is that once a machine is infected its most likely got a lot of 'back doors' that you cant remove so cleaning the machine only works for a short while as the back doors allow for re-infection. The only successful way to clean up the machine is to back up all your information > re-image the machine > get a good AV installed (not a free one, that includes Spyware, desktop firewall etc) > re-introduce the data whilst scanning it. Its a pain, but the only 100% way to get a machine virus free.

Much of what you want eg spring or PCP also comes down to what you want it for. You mention field shooting, is this field target or small game/vermin? I have had a few rifles over the years and have only ever kept 2 for going into the field with - both spring underlevers, super reliable, full power ~11.5ftlbs and very accurate. They are the Weihrauch 97k and Webley Eclipse carbine. Both are great for carrying around fields although the 97k is a touch on the heavy side. If however you are looking for field target or similar then PCP is the way to go. Personally I have used a lot of rifles and as much as I see the merits in PCP and love to shoot them, when it comes to getting out in the field I just dont think you can beat the soul of a good springer! Just my opinion

Many owners once the clutch needed replacing with have also done the RMS. Im not sure if the Carerra RMS was updated like the Boxster, however either way im pretty sure the RMS would show signs of failure every 50k. I bow to those with greater knowledge but it should show signs of leaking before it fails I think?

Sorry Gaz I must have had a Friday moment thanks for moving the post! Doh!! Craig, many thanks, have sent you a pm. Josh, there are a few on ebay but a few sellers tend to over state the condition and tread depths. I just don't feel confident I would get an 'as described' set from there.

Can anyone help? I am looking to get some good preworn tyres for my BMW e60 535d. I would never normally stoop so low as to get preworns but I am looking to sell the BM in the summer and dont want to tuck £800+ into tyres when I will never get the value back. Its a long shot but has anyone got or know of anyone with a set of 245/40/18/97Y Cheers

A friend just took this pic......She is a beauty....

Yes thats them Evolution Chips. Grosvenor BMW Reading do the Evolution remap for around £360 which seems reasonable. But I will take Johnny's advice and look the other two up as well. When it comes to this sort of thing I want to get it right...... I dont want to be left with a very expensive smouldering lump of metal if all went wrong!

Great thanks. I will do. I had been looking at an Evolution remap which I had been told was very good, but I will do a bit more investigation. Many thanks.

I went from a Supra TT to a BMW 535d and whilst very different to drive it has to be said the power from the BMW diesel engine is amazing. I am currently looking to get it remapped which takes it from 270bhp and 560nm to around 315bhp and 640nm! Its even supposed to impove the fuel economy as well, double bonus!

Has anyone had any experience with a warranty claim? Basically I have an issue with the auto box on my BMW 535d and after having it assessed by a BMW specialist and an auto box specialist the diagnosis is that the mechatronic component is at fault and going to be upwards of £1500 to replace! I have not yet spoken to the warranty company as I want to do my homework before I do in case they try and reject the findings or the claim. My concern is that whist the box is technically covered by the warranty they will find any old excuse not to pay out (as all insurance companies try and do). The car is a 54 plate with 92k so I think they will try and say its a wear and tear issue. Has anyone got any advice before I approach them. Any advice appreciated. NB - wish I had kept my Supra, the BMW has been far more trouble and twice as expensive!

Instant karma!