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Supra N/A Hybrid Recipe & Hybrid Transmission Information ***


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A340E-GTE/GE Hybrid Transmission Information Collation

 

 

An A340E-GTE/GE Hybrid is a plug & play upgrade compatible with Supra N/A 2JZA80-GE auto ECU.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?233707-Project-Supracharger&p=3080115#post3080115

 

Compatible with Supra 1JZA80-GTE and 1UZ-FE conversions using a stock auto ECU.

 

Using different bell-housings & prop-sections, the Hybrid is also compatible for Soarer 1JZA80-GTE & Lexus 1UZ-FE.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?270287-A340-A343-Hybrid

 

Alternatively, a Suprastick ECU can be used for Manualised Flappy-Paddle gear selection.

 

http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?248149-Flappy-Paddle-Supra&highlight=suprastick

 

The donor A340E-GTE is 'max rated' @ 550ftlb, yet the Hybrid A340E runs @ higher pressures which gives more clamping force to the clutches and with efficient cooling, could take up to 600ftlb? :think:

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  • 10 months later...

To fit an A340E-GTE/GE Hybrid into a Supra N/A auto, you need the following T.T. auto components.

 

A340E GTE transmission with J3 bell-housing, torque-converter with bolts x 6, rear crossmember, prop-flange nuts x 4, flex-plate with 8 x (no. 11) crank-bolts and the dipstick assembly.

 

Make sure you get everything listed.

 

Prices vary from;

 

£0 :duel: £50 for an N/A A340E. transmission only.

 

£150 :duel: £200 for a T.T. A340E transmission with torque-converter.

 

You also need;

 

T.T. auto propshaft with donut, £50 :duel: £100.

 

T.T. diff-flange for N/A diff. £25? :shrug:

 

With these components the conversion is plug&play.

 

Inside of the torque-converter must be kept clean.

 

T.T. flex-plate must be fitted welded side facing the torque-converter using the (no. 11) T.T. bolts.

 

Speed sensor is located differently yet the N/A loom will just reach.

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The Suprastick torque-converter lock prevents friction and the transmission runs cooler than with OE ECU.

 

I put an extra magnet in a vacant divot in a Hybrids sump to help catch any metal filings.

 

Installations need at least one 'decent size' oil-cooler and it's a good idea to use a Mocal oil-thermostat in the plumbing.

 

Treated with the respect given to an 'uprated' engine, this 'uprated' transmission will give good service.

 

O.E. - Toyota Type-IV.

Boost Logic - Type-IV or Dexron III.

Club FAQ's - Type-IV.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine

 

Adding "Lucas Stop-Slip" increases fluid viscosity and raises line pressure, which is a good thing. :)

 

Transmission temp should range from 75°C @ cruise to 100°C @ WOT.

 

There is a temp gauge sensor that can be used to drive a gauge.

 

GE loom doesn't have clip for GTE o.d. speed-sensor, not needed with N/A ECU.

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Stock ECU auto mode has engine-braking in O.D. and 3rd but not 2nd or 1st.

 

Stock ECU Manu-mode has engine-braking in all gears because the 2nd and 1st gear brake-bands are controlled by the stick movement.

 

Suprastick in manualised-mode "D", has engine-braking in O.D. and 3rd, but not 2nd or 1st.

 

With Suprastick, all 4 gears are controlled with the paddles and 2nd-gear engine-braking can be had by manually selecting "2".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Q: :wave: What's it like to drive?

 

 

The higher line-pressure has a side-effect.

 

Shifting quickly from P to D makes it lurch, :slap: to tame this; pause in R for a 'moment', it then slips into D like stock. :friends:

 

Cold-start-cycle high-idle parallel-parking manoeuvres require a tad more pressure on the brake pedal, yet functions as stock when warm.

 

With stock ECU; gear-changes are faster and firmer.

 

With Suprastick ECU; Two switchable auto shift-tables and Manualised gear-changes are each programmable for shift-speed and torque-convertor lock-up.

 

A: :think: This transmission has a character that's keen to get going, with firmer, faster gear-changes and/or 'flappy' and more fun. http://www.killbillet.com/images/smilies/drivingskid.gif

 

 

Hybrid Transmission P to D Bump is now cured, details here. :)

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=175&do=discuss

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  • 3 weeks later...

Further economy beefing is achieved by shimming the accumulators. :think:

 

Fitting Raybestos Blue clutch plates would raise the bar again, but that would require a complete rebuild and be an expensive operation, this is Boost Logic maximum strength territory and very £costly.

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PLEASE NOTE:

 

These old transmissions are heavy, dirty, oily and smelly, yet is an assembly that requires respect.

 

Store and transport with the torque converter mounted and secured in place.

 

Keeping the inside of the torque-converter and oil-ways free from contaminant is paramount.

 

It may come in handy to know that the T.T. and N/A transmission speed sensors are the same, the driven gears are different but easily swappable.

 

Bell-housing and torque-converter differences. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?275738-Torque-convertor

 

To Hybridise an existing T.T. Auto, requires the following components;

 

N/A Hybrid; Supra N/A transmission to donate valve body, filter, internal loom and a few springs.

 

T.T. Hybrid; + Throttle-body and line pressure control cable from Soarer 1JZ-GTE.

 

Make sure you get all the little bits and nuts and bolts because it gets expensive and a PITA to source them.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

A rough uphill straight and a bit lively north of 90 Leptons. :blush:

 

The copper plugs haven't been touched since it was mapped 8k miles ago and they're no longer happy over 6k revs so was aiming for changes @ 6k.

 

WOT stresses cause slower changes and 1st to 2nd takes the longest, I was a nodger late with the first two, but not too bad for my first blast with the new setup.

 

Change times are down to around; 1st to 2nd 0.9 sec, 2nd to 3rd 0.2 sec and 3rd to O.D. 0.3 sec.

 

Suprastick is set @ 0.1 sec lock-up delay which can be reduced to 0 for even faster changes, but 100ms delay gives better traction during changes on dry tarmac.

 

The 2nd to 3rd actuator has the strongest pair of springs and gives the fastest change, so when more important jobs are out of the way, I'll fit stronger springs into the others and see if I can get all of them down to around 200 milliseconds for road use and 100 ms for the strip. :)

 

 

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