Overview
About This Club
A340E-GTE/GE Hybrid Transmission & SupraStick ECU Focal Point
T.T. Automatic & Tiptronic Maintenance & Upgrades too
If you have a Supra with automatic transmission, EVERYTHING you need to know is here
N/A-T is constrained to circa 300 ftlb with A340E-GE, 400 ftlb with W58, or spend up-to £3k for 20+ years old 650 ftlb R154, or up-to £7k for 900 ftlb Getrag + up-to 3k for a clutch!
Alternatively, with this cheap as chips Hybrid transmission, up to 600 ftlb N/A-T costs up-to £11k less & no expensive clutch to wear out either!
This conversion is O.E component plug & play with; 2J, 1J & 1UZ in Supra, Soarer or Lexus and Flappy-Paddles can be used too
The pages below are kept up-to-date & members can subscribe to enable alerts of latest updates & Hybrid information
After browsing the clearly indexed 10-pages below, should further information be required, I give my telephone number by pm for talking in old money
NOT for torture with text grunts!
- What's new in this club
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Hey Guys just to make this al little more confusing, there must be some differences between the A340E and the A343E which we havent found yet. The A343E 30-43LE was used on the EU spec Supra TT, some GS300s and others. According to the wiki and other forum sources i found, the gear ratios of all A34x are exactly the same. I think the 30-43LE is probably stronger than the 30-40LE, especially when taking into consideration that Europe basically only got the top of the line options like TT and leather and they were still upgraded even more compared to the other markets. For example: the EU spec had bigger injectors, bigger brakes (maybe the us got them on the TT as well?), hood scoop to cool the exhaust manifold, diff cooler and a cooler for the automatic transmission. Now do the US 30-40LE have that cooler as well? Rumor is those changes were mainly made with germanys unrestricted autobahn sections in mind. I just cant believe they would have introduced a new model number if there werent any changes. Also i dont know of any A343s before 1990, where as the A340s existed since the 80s. Now my theory: For some reason they wanted a stronger A34x for the 1990 Hilux and Land Cruiser, so they made the A343F. Later when they had to decide on how they wanted the EU spec JZA80 to be, they looked at the A343F and thought that it would be a good fit, removed the transfer case and called it the A343E 30-43LE. But i hear you say "if it was better, why wouldnt they have used it on all new models?" To that my answer would be 1. cost, cars in Europe cost signifficantly more than their counterparts or even the same model in the US. (the TT Supra was about 90000 usd in europe) and 2. the A34x series basically became obsolete with the A650E replacing it in a lot of models from 1998 onwards. @acme15 i think you will be just fine using a 30-40, but you could also upgrade to a A650E 35-50LS wich was used in everything from the IS300 tho the LS430. They are also pretty cheap, just get one with a large J (for 2JZ) and not U (for 1UZ) on the bellhousing. If i find the time and motivation, i will crawl under my CH/EU spec Supra and document the exact numbers for the sake of completeness. Edit. Oh and the 35000 1B240 part is actually the toyota part-number and according to to amayama it belongs to a 2JZ-GE Toyota Supra (seems to be correct) and 35000-1B260 belongs to a 2JZ-GTE Supra, correct as well.
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I’m pretty sure you can mix synthetic and conventional without an issue. I put Fuchs Titan ATF 4400 Ultra High Performance in the tiptronic box. It works a treat, what ever that is worth. Speak with Opie Oils - https://www.opieoils.co.uk an ex forum trader. They know their apples so will be able to advise you 100%. Lucas Transmission Fix (Stops Slip) is also a good addition when doing an oil change. When refitting the pan make sure you use a small amount of gasket sealant (Loctite Grey SI 5660 to be precise) as you don’t want it going inside the pan. Make sure both surfaces are spotless. If the pan does leak (no reason why is should) don’t be tempted to fit a gasket (you can buy them) as it’s only a temp fix and will start to leak and then warp the mating faces. Careful not to over tighten the sump bolts, think they need 6 ftlb maybe a little more but not a lot. If fitting a temp sensor for the box (very good idea btw) make sure it’s in the bottom of the sump, where the plug goes. You can also drill and tap for a sump magnet if you want to be super cautious. Nice mechanical gauges like stack are very accurate.
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Yeh, I’ll do what you said though and take a look at what comes out first. I’m thinking this too, at least then I know what’s in it from the get go. Pan looks fine, no leaks that I can remember but I’ll check this weekend. I do like the idea of that. I was going to get the SRD auto box cooler when I change the intercooler and having a way of monitoring the temps would be very good. I’ll look into that tomorrow
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If you have no idea, as far as I understand, if the colour is of a burnt red/brown, then change most of it. Equally if it's red, and the box doesn't clunk more than it should, then just do the 1 part (approx 2l) change. Last time I did mine (2l) I used Toyota's own type IV ATF, and is what's recommended on here. If new ATF is added too often then the polymers can sludge up the box.
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If you're reading this feel free to disregard the message on your feed, it wouldn't let me reply to this thread before for some reason! I have a question regarding this post of yours from a few years ago, where you say the Lexus 30-43LE is equivalent in strength to a Supra TT 30-40: I am turbo converting an EUDM GS300 with an A340E/30-43LE 35000-3F270. If what you said here is accurate then I should be able to achieve my 400 - 450 crank HP goal using this transmission without modification, but I can't find any corroborating information or technical documentation. The link you included in the post also no longer works. So I am wondering if you could give me any more info, or let me know your source etc? Many thanks! Acme
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Hi David I used this to great effect at the weekend, after painting the throttle body I had the O/D light flashing and the car drove terrible with weird boost issue above 1 bar aswell. After doing this it is great. One thing i did not is that I wasnt able to get a resistance reading as per the lower half of the table " Throttle Valve Fully Open".
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Hi David Did you get any further with this project ? I am interested as I may e adding more power to my car in the future and want to understand the exent of parts and in this case, Auto Boxes i would need to collect. I believe that a 550ft/lb modification may meet my needs but If a 650ft/lb option is available then i would look at the cost/benefit
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Toyota Main Dealer or Amayama should be able to get you those. There are two different gaskets, one for each side of the separation plate. Don't trust aftermarket versions, they are not pattern correct. If you are stripping the valve-body, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber check balls whilst you're at it, by now they will have worn to be egg shaped.
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I have had my drive extended and it is now 27" longer, which might only be a little, yet is enough to make a big difference. There is now enough space for Socially Distanced fine weather transmission tinkering. Using the back of a van as a bench saves all of the heavy lifting and my little stool is the perfect height to perch on. Lavender smells better than ATF too. Servicing and shimming accumulators on Wile-e Coyote's Tiptronic box Converting an Aristo Tiptronic box to fit Supra, servicing and shimming accumulators for Uzair