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n/a-tt


miko_supra

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day 11 part 2

ok just did all the small little odd bits...

(still waiting on a few little bits, if your wondering why i havnt already done some other stuff)

 

-connected the ecu's up (you need a 2jz-gte ecu to replace the 2jz-ge one and a throttle control ecu which is about half the size of the main ecu) these both sit in the passenger foot well and are joined up to the engine loom that got fed down.

 

-next fit the new tt air box

 

- then fit the inter cooler piping

-this diagram will explain better than any pictures

http://xs122.xs.to/xs122/07510/104intercoolerpiping.JPG

 

-then connect up the steering rack connector

-theres a round one and a square one on the TT, im yet to find out what the round one is for, but the square one is what goes into the steering rack

http://xs322.xs.to/xs322/07515/whatarethese.JPG

 

-fit the throttle cable. it connects up onto the part nearest passenger side. the other is for cruise control if you have that

http://xs122.xs.to/xs122/07510/105throttlecable.JPG

 

-then fit the fan (if you had taken it off)

 

-then fit the radiator and upper and lower radiator hoses.

 

-fill the radiator with coolant

 

-then fit the exhaust heat shields

 

-refit this bracket

http://xs221.xs.to/xs221/07465/040driveshaft.JPG

 

-refit exhaust system (2nd cat, cat back)

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day 12

 

-fitted the inter cooler

-fitted the inlet pipe from the air box to the manifold

 

http://xs322.xs.to/xs322/07523/107inletpipe.JPG

-fitted the new tt power steering reservoir and piping.

http://xs322.xs.to/xs322/07523/106powersteeringreservoir.JPG

 

-now the engine can be safely test run...

-ensure all the electrical connectors are connected properly (check and double check!) as you don't to stress yourself out trying to find why the engine wont start.

-check your coolant and fuel lines!

 

Dont be surprised it if doesn't all go to plan first time around...

-i turned the key in mine, then discovered the battery was flat, so i hooked it up to my other cars battery and turned the key. the starter motor was running fine, but the engine didnt want to start. i looked under the car to discover a large puddle of petrol underneath the petrol filter. a washer was missing from the bolt that held down the fuel line to the engine DOH! so i soon found this and fitted that.

 

-turned the key again and the engine fired up just fine!

-although once looking around i noticed a horrible chattering noise coming from the front of the engine. i soon discovered that the power steering system needed bleeding as there was allot of bubbles in the reservoir.

 

to bleed the system...

-jack the front end of the car off the ground, start the engine and move the steering wheel full lock left to full lock right (i did this about 10-15 times) this should bleed the system no problem.

 

-ok with that sorted i took the car for a little test drive (no bumper fitted so couldn't use the main roads...just up the block and back was all i did)

-drive it carefully, check the clutch and gears all engage properly and TEST YOUR BRAKES! then bring it back and keep it running. then do a leak check (i hadn't fitted the floor pan yet for this reason)

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day 13

ok now just to add the final touches.

 

-fitted the active spoiler and front bumper

 

-fitted the engine pan

 

-fitted the new tt tack (the whole cluster including speedo, rev counter, petrol and temp gauge.) i had an auto tack which meant it had all the gear select lights on the rev counter. theres no point trying to swap over the manual face as you have to take the whole thing apart and you can run the risk of messing up the calibration. for the moment i just took all the bulbs out the back and stuck a piece of black tape over them, until i get some new nice white dials to go over the top.

-this might help http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/Indiglo_gauge/index.html

 

-then fitted the gear surround and gear knob

 

-secured the ecu's, refitted the foot well cover and carpet.

 

-then i took the car out for a short run. the 1st turbo should kick in just under 3000rpm and the second comes in at around 4500rpm. you'll feel and hear them, so if you don't notice both stages then something ain't right!

 

-the car ran well, and it was better than i had predicted, this engine really is a magnificent piece of engineering by toyota. :):):):) It was abit damp so i couldn't give it too much. You also need to go easy on the clutch if its new and run it in properly.

 

http://xs322.xs.to/xs322/07523/108finished.JPG

http://xs122.xs.to/xs122/07523/109finished.JPG

 

thanks jezz at silverstone garage for supplying me with the engine and parts and thanks all those on here that provided me with some excellent advise :)

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hey all...been reading this thread and its awsome. Im in the US and have a RHD supra na/auto am thinking about doing this swap. I have a question...was that a true supra motor or an aristo motor??? if aristo motor is there any insight on the wiring... that seems to be my biggest thing right now...

Just me

Chris

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hey all...been reading this thread and its awsome. Im in the US and have a RHD supra na/auto am thinking about doing this swap. I have a question...was that a true supra motor or an aristo motor??? if aristo motor is there any insight on the wiring... that seems to be my biggest thing right now...

Just me

Chris

 

yeah its a supra engine, i think the aristo engine has a different oil sump on it and this wont fit in the supra with that on so it needs modifying or replacing so i've heard. i don't know about the wiring

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yea the sump needs to be changed to front like the supras.. the wiring is the biggest question i have...no one in the world seems to have a aristo ecu pinout..lol... at least none i can find...and i have been looking for three days straight!!!!

Just me

Chris

 

have you tried looking on http://www.clubna-t.com? theres quite a bit of info on there

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fuse box connector

 

-the upper black connector, which goes into the fuse box needs swapping with the one from the n/a engine to the one from the tt engine.

 

-this is because they are different. i have drawn a lovely diagram on paint to try and explain this as the photo i took came out all blurry. but basically 3 of the wires from the tt loom go into the old n/a connector (only 3 terminals) and you are left with a blue one. which on mine was wrapped up in insulation tape and then tucked into the loom. the picture shows the clip side of the connector facing you and the wire colours are [black + red] [yellow] [black (also thicker than the others)]

http://xs323.xs.to/xs323/08013/111fuseboxconnector.JPG

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Good pic, makes it easier to understand.

 

It might be worth noting though that there are 2 red and black wires on the TT side of the loom, these will need joining together and connecting to the one wire that goes in to the connector off the NA loom.

 

thankyou that man! :D

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