JayDub Posted December 5, 2004 Share Posted December 5, 2004 Can anyone tell me if the J spec rear hub bearings are adjustable - I have a slight knock on the NSR @ slow speeds - (Don't get it very often. lol) No seriously, it's there all the time & does my fruit!!! Took the car to my local Toy. dealer, who said there was slight play in the NSR hub (non-adjustable according to them!) & slight movement in the damper - actually demonstrated both!!! & then didn't charge me! BUT did quote me £330 inc VAT to change the rear bearing. But when I changed from 16's to 19's two days later, I noticed a castlated nut & split pin on rear hub - normally ascotiated with adjustable bearings - Now I'm confused???!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 Non adjustable and defo not a DIY jobbie im afraid . Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 6, 2004 Share Posted December 6, 2004 What makes it non-DIY dude, does it need a special puller or a fly press? I need to do my near side rear bearing soon and have access to a fly press at work, may even be able to make up a special puller if somebody posts up a picture with dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gtirpad Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Dont know about the 'DIYness' of it but what ever you do, make sure its done right and soon. Mine wasnt (by a previous owner I might add) and it knackered the hub so badly that it needed to be metal sprayed and turned back down again to salvage it. The previous monkey who had attempted it hadnt bothered with the oil seal kit.... I got charged £420 at trade rate, you'll be looking at over £500 although I think someone on the board can get the bearings for less than the extortionate £150 from Toyota. Hope this is of some use, Pad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Kindell Motors quoted me £150 labour + £100 for the bearing (pattern part, perfectly OK). You need a 10 ton press to get the old bearing out apparently -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Hmmm!..Seems like I'm better off getting someone else to do it then. Anybody on here in the trade and has done this before fancy a new customer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Originally posted by Lazarus Hmmm!..Seems like I'm better off getting someone else to do it then. Anybody on here in the trade and has done this before fancy a new customer? I think the book time is 4 hours for this but thats optimistic , if you can get this done for £150 labour grab it with both hands , i have a large 20 ton press and a lot of equipment and we struggled like F**K to get the job done !!!! Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 Don't let Mark know that, he hasn't done the job yet -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevie Boy Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 What did you find you struggled with Dude, i haven't even really looked at the rear hub arrangement, but would have assumed i'd be able to do a wheel bearing on my Supe if the need arose? Not feeling too optimistic now from what you posted, are we talking difficulty pressing the bearing outta the hub? I take it heating the hub up and or freezing the bearing when replacing didn't make any odds?? Or was it just a sl*g of a job in general?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 Been looking in the manual today, looks like a normal split inner race double roller bearing with the hub pressed into the bearing then the whole lot pressed into the hub carrier. Are the oil seals separate or do they come fitted to the bearing? I asked Toyota for a quote to get it done, said they'd get back to me on Monday (13th), I'll post it up when they tell me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gtirpad Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 AFAIK the oil seals are separate, else the plonker who did mine chucked them away 'unwitingly'. Pad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 I had my rear wheel bearing changed at Toyota back in May 02 (before I knew better and took it somewhere cheaper for this kind of thing!). I've got the receipt here. They charged 2.6 hours labour. Total bill was 386.50 inc VAT. Here was the breakdown: T90369-43005 Needle bearing 125.45 T90521-85002 Circlip 1.59 T90311-57001 Oil Seal 16.51 T42451-50010 Deflector, W/Brg 18.63 T90179-26006 Nut 1.95 T42428-24010 Plate, lock nut 5.69 T90252-04004 Pin, cotter 0.16 T90311-63001 Oil Seal 21.16 Labour 137.80 Total 328.94 + VAT = 386.50 Like I say that was back in May 02 so the parts might have gone up since then. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 9, 2004 Share Posted December 9, 2004 Originally posted by Stevie Boy What did you find you struggled with Dude, i haven't even really looked at the rear hub arrangement, but would have assumed i'd be able to do a wheel bearing on my Supe if the need arose? Not feeling too optimistic now from what you posted, are we talking difficulty pressing the bearing outta the hub? I take it heating the hub up and or freezing the bearing when replacing didn't make any odds?? Or was it just a sl*g of a job in general?? It is getting the bearing out of the hub thats the problem , getting the hub off is fine if some of the bolts dont 'freeze' in the bushes , then your in a world of hurt!!!!, it is very awkward to split the hub and get the bearing out , i believe toyta have a special tool for this but we strugled with our 20 ton press !!!! Dude :flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 10, 2004 Share Posted December 10, 2004 I'm beginning to get the impression that the rear wheel bearings are a common fault on the mkiv, near side in particular. Is this true? Anybody know why this might be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayDub Posted December 13, 2004 Author Share Posted December 13, 2004 I would think it's because we've all got BIG right feet!!! The physics of rear wheel drive cars is that the most torque (twisting action) is transmitted to the NSR first, followed by the OSR, but by then it is slightly reduced - therefore the NSR is constantly under more physical load & will wear more & fail first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Quote from Toyota for rear wheel bearing inc fitting, £360 inc VAT. Booked it in for next Tues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Originally posted by JayDub I would think it's because we've all got BIG right feet!!! The physics of rear wheel drive cars is that the most torque (twisting action) is transmitted to the NSR first, followed by the OSR, but by then it is slightly reduced - therefore the NSR is constantly under more physical load & will wear more & fail first. Not correct at all, torque is applied via the driveshaft, a hub bearing sees very liitle loading change in relation to torque. the reason the LHR hub bearings fail more than the RHR is that the LH side is more often smashed into kerbs that the RH side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 So it is down to driver error Chris. LOL:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 Originally posted by Terminator So it is down to driver error Chris. LOL:p Allegedly, but I couldn't possibly comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 LH side is more often smashed into kerbs that the RH side I know you're not having a poke at anybody inparticular there Chris, but I've never smashed a wheel into the kerb and yet I still have the problem, there must be another reason? It just seems that after doing a search on here, every time somebody has had a rear wheel bearing problem it invariably turns out to be the nearside not the offside. I've been thinking about road cambers and taking bends at speed. Its difficult to illustrate my theory in words but I'll have a go. We all know that roads tend to camber down from the centre line of the Tarmac to the verge to aid in water shedding. Now because we drive on the left this means the car is inclined to one side whilst travelling (although only slightly). When you take a bend, centrifugal force try's to throw the car outwards from the bend hence "loading up" the suspension on that side and all things being equal if you were to take left and right hand bends at the same set speed the side loadings should be the same for either left or right bend. But all things are not equal if you allow for the camber which in a left bend would act a little like banking(because of it sloping down to the left) and spread the load more evenly across the car, in a right bend it would do the opposite and increase the loading on the nearside suspension. Does this theory hold any water or I just talking a load of old b*ll*x? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupraboy2 Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 id of said if it to do with anything it fact way we go round roudabouts turning right, meaning more force on left wheels. Over 10 yrs the amount of times you've gone right rather then left would probably be a big difference thanx to roundabouts. And everyone has gone fast round a roundabout! putting more force and eventually takes it toll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 The cornering loads should be absolutely trivial to bearings of the size and type installed in the rear hubs. 3 things kill angular contact ball bearings, shock loads (maybe SOMEBODY has bashed a rim into a kerb), dirt ingress (very unlikely), and wrong preload (set by machining tolerances unless the hub nut has been undone and not correctly re torqued). That leaves one other possibiluity. Wrong rear wheel offset, which can put a huge extra load on the hub bearings. Are you running stock rear wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 id of said if it to do with anything it fact way we go round roudabouts turning right, meaning more force on left wheels. Agreed, but theres not that many roundabouts that you can really take at speed (there are a few good ones though). At slower speeds I don't think high force's are to be found there IMHO. Over 10 yrs the amount of times you've gone right rather then left would probably be a big difference thanx to roundabouts. My cars only been in the UK for 18 months, do they have roundabouts in Japan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupraboy2 Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 Originally posted by Lazarus My cars only been in the UK for 18 months, do they have roundabouts in Japan? Best point of the thread so far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazarus Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 That leaves one other possibiluity. Wrong rear wheel offset, which can put a huge extra load on the hub bearings. Are you running stock rear wheels? Stock for the car is 16's, its an SZ, But they've been changed to 17 inch Enkei 5 spokes with the same offset as standard UK rims. Do the Turbo cars and the N/A's have the same rear hub assembly's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.