Sean1933 Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Now i get what you mean Rob as i was getting confused on how thought this could work, thanks for clearing that up Dave. Cant say i was liking the idea of heat getting close to my expensive wheels! Best option i am going for is the old drill the stud out jobbie. Going to try the reverse turn/grip sockets on the other 2 lock nuts that are still in 1 piece (screwfix sell a kit that should work)...if not then i will drill them out too. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share Posted January 17, 2008 Sorry to drag this old thread back up but i finally got around to giving this a go tonight. I was using a 'for metal' 2.5mm drill bit to make the pilot hole, but after a few good 5 min sessions i had only managed to drill 2mm! which of a 30odd mm stud would mean it would take me nigh on a day! Do people just think its a case of the drill bit being crap and i should get a decent titanium bit? If so, what are the recommendations for both sizes (pilot and final hole) and make...ie would a screwfix direct jobbie be good enough? Im no drill-bit expert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 So....any comments on the best drill bits? I was looking in screwfix catalogue last night and they either have HSS titanium coated, or some special HSS cobalt (no mention of titanium though) that are meant for hardened steel/cast iron/etc. The latter is approx £25 for 15 bits (didnt do singles) and the former was anywhere from 69p - £2 per bit. Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markus99 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 cobalt drill bits would be the ticket, pilot hole size doesnt matter long as its centre and big enough to hold the centre of you larger drill bit. the larger drill should be just slightly smaller than the diameter of your stud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamanC Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Titanium bad boys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 and drill slowly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 Well i only have a high speed drill, normal black and decker sort so i guess i will just have to pump it on and off or something. I also have a cordless drill/screwdriver which can run at low speed but i cant see it being up to this sort of job . Also, do people think i should cool it whilst drilling, say with a water spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Nut and stud are relatively soft, any decent titanium coated drill bits will laugh at them. Titanium bad boys! Well i only have a high speed drill, normal black and decker sort so i guess i will just have to pump it on and off or something. I also have a cordless drill/screwdriver which can run at low speed but i cant see it being up to this sort of job . Also, do people think i should cool it whilst drilling, say with a water spray? Screwdriver thing won't have the umph bud. Perhaps get a multispeed drill it'll help for other jobs too. Also get a power one not cordless, cheaper and no battery hassle. Although there are some great heavy duty 18v cordless jobs out there. Get some machine cutting oil/compound. It'll cool and treat your drill bits nicely. Personally I would only drill down the depth of the nut Sean. You risk drilling off centre and damaging the splines if you go right through. That'll scrap your hub as you don't want to fit new studs and have them loose. You may not be able to fit new studs at all. Once you've drilled the threaded part of stud down the nuts depth the nut will take very little effort to shear and you'll be better placed to remove the stud. As stated get "Titanium" good quality drill bits. Steve Manley will get you the new studs. Steve Manley 01865 291300 and 291333 Good luck mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 This is what I would do, just my opinion and the tools I have close to hand: 1) Get a short stub of steel tube that fits snugly over the locking wheel nut outer diameter. A piece just long enough so it sticks out beyond the wheel. 2) Slip a big, thin nut over the end of the tube & weld it on. 3) Push the tube over the lock nut and tack weld it in about 4 places on the inside of the tube stub. 4) While still very hot from the welding stick a socket over the thin nut welded to the outer end of the tube and spin the lock nut off. Should come off quite easily as the heat will have expanded it. 5) Grind the tack welds down between the tube & lock nut with a dremel & re-use the tube to remove the next lock nut. There should be no damage to the alloy wheel as the welding is all inside the tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 As i said above "Nut and stud are relatively soft, any decent titanium coated drill bits will laugh at them." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 This is what I would do, just my opinion and the tools I have close to hand: 1) Get a short stub of steel tube that fits snugly over the locking wheel nut outer diameter. A piece just long enough so it sticks out beyond the wheel. 2) Slip a big, thin nut over the end of the tube & weld it on. 3) Push the tube over the lock nut and tack weld it in about 4 places on the inside of the tube stub. 4) While still very hot from the welding stick a socket over the thin nut welded to the outer end of the tube and spin the lock nut off. Should come off quite easily as the heat will have expanded it. 5) Grind the tack welds down between the tube & lock nut with a dremel & re-use the tube to remove the next lock nut. There should be no damage to the alloy wheel as the welding is all inside the tube. Nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1933 Posted January 18, 2008 Author Share Posted January 18, 2008 Cheers for all your posts guys, just wanted to double check as the advertising for cobalt bits made them sound better than titanium...I have read up on the difference now and know that their not! Im still not keen on welding so close to the wheels but soungs like it could be ok if it was done Kranz way...not to mention the car is unmoveable and i have never welded before thus dont have the knowledge or equipment. Its one of those things i want to learn but havent got around to yet! Let the drilling fun begin Oh and i only have one stud to drill now as i managed to get a the other 2 off due to them still being intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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