dandan Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 OK chaps and chapesses, I'm going to install by AEM wideband at the weekend (hopefully) and just had a few simple questions. 1. I intend to swap out the clock for the AEM display. Is the clock easy to remove? I've had the dash out several times but never looked at the clock with any interest (obviously ). 2. I believe the clock has ign 12V, 12V when lights are on and ground connections. Can I just use the 12v ign feed, anyone know what the wiring and/or relevant fuse is rated to? 3. Where do people break out through the body for the sensor wiring? Mine is going in the first decat pipe by the way. I intend to ground the AEM wideband system at the same point as my EManage Ultimate so help with calibration and offset issues from earth loops. Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gzaerojon Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 i just installed mine last week the clock is easy to remove, just 2 or 3 screws and it just falls out. After that the AEM gauge fits perfectly in the hole for the wiring i just tapped into the cigarette lighter, the reason for this is because it is a switched feed and has a 20amp fuse for the wiring to the sensor, remove the upper glove box cover (4 screws, 2 at the top under 2 covers, 2 at the bottom that you get to through the lower glove box) then take a look in the engine bay in the corner (where the charcol filter is/was) you will see a rubber shroud containing a chunk of wires and a plate with 2 10mm or 12mm nuts, remove the nuts and pull the plate forward. you should now be able to break through the rubber and run through to the upper glove box area. i would use a wire coat hanger and tape the end of the sensor loom to it so you can poke it through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 Aha good man thank you, cigarette lighter sounds like a good idea. One slight problem with that wire routing is I have a passenger airbag so messing around in the "upper glovebox" area on my car is a no-no. I'll take a look (perhaps I can get through by removing the lower glovebox itself?) but it doesn't sound toooo promising. Any other ideas people... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 That's quite a long route through the firewall, when there's a rubber gromet on the transmission tunnel, that will bring the cable out just beside the passenger seat. I used that. Make sure you tie -wrap it out of the way of the mechanical linkages of the gearbox though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob wild Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 That's quite a long route through the firewall, when there's a rubber gromet on the transmission tunnel, that will bring the cable out just beside the passenger seat. I used that. Make sure you tie -wrap it out of the way of the mechanical linkages of the gearbox though. that's how i've got mine. It looks like the below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 Perrrfect...cheers fellas, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brianwilson2525 Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 that's how i've got mine. It looks like the below: where is that exactly? ive been kinda pulling up the carpet by my passenger seat, but i dont know exactly where that is that you've got yours. help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angarak Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 (edited) I think the AEM UEGO AFR gauge requires a 10amp source for the ignition live doesnt it? The Odometer loom has a 10amp ignition live you could use (atleast it is on my JSpec). The gromit TLicence refers to is on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel, roughly where the front of the seat is - half way up the tunnel (from the floor pan). Edited May 10, 2008 by Angarak (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob wild Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 where is that exactly? ive been kinda pulling up the carpet by my passenger seat, but i dont know exactly where that is that you've got yours. help? Because yours is an usa spec car i would say look on the drivers side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steb9780 Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Because yours is an usa spec car i would say look on the drivers side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1its Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Just to add a question to this old thread. I'm about to attempt the install tomorrow of my AEM AFR Gauge which I believe is the same as the AEM wideband; if not please correct me! Am I right in saying the lambda (spelt correctly??) sensor just goes into the downpipe? My car is decatted. What happens to the existing Lambda sensor and the loom when you disconnect it? There are also 4 wires coming from the back of the AFR gauge; one for live, one for earth and then two others. What are they for?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 You still need the standard one for the engine ecu In the kit should be a bung which you will need to get welded into your decat unless there is one already there If turbo needs to be Aprox 36" downstream from turbo, mine is in the second decat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 There are also 4 wires coming from the back of the AFR gauge; one for live, one for earth and then two others. What are they for?? Red Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse. Black Connect to a clean ground source. White Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. Blue connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging. That's all taken from the installation manual and White & Blue seem to be optional concerns, i.e. not needed for the gauge to perform only to record/send info elsewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1its Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Red Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse. Black Connect to a clean ground source. White Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. Blue connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging. That's all taken from the installation manual and White & Blue seem to be optional concerns, i.e. not needed for the gauge to perform only to record/send info elsewhere Thanks Pedro....that's easy enough to do then.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1its Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 You still need the standard one for the engine ecu In the kit should be a bung which you will need to get welded into your decat unless there is one already there If turbo needs to be Aprox 36" downstream from turbo, mine is in the second decat The car is a TT with a single lone piece for the decat. The 'probe' that is already in place in the exhaust, thinking about it, is completely different by design to the actual lambda sensor from the AEM AFR unit, so that all makes sense now. I purchased the AEM AFR 2nd hand so there was no bung with it. I'll do a search but do you know where I can purchase one from? Thanks again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-WIDEBAND-M18-X-1-5-STAINLESSS-STEEL-EXHAUST-02-LAMBDA-SENSOR-BOSS-PORT-/350906904518?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51b3ae6fc6 The sensor and, therefore, the bung needs to be fitted to the pipe at least 10 degrees above horizontal to prevent the collection of liquid between the sensor housing & sensor element during cold starts. Edited January 3, 2014 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1its Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-WIDEBAND-M18-X-1-5-STAINLESSS-STEEL-EXHAUST-02-LAMBDA-SENSOR-BOSS-PORT-/350906904518?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51b3ae6fc6 The sensor and, therefore, the bung needs to be fitted to the pipe at least 10 degrees above horizontal to prevent the collection of liquid between the sensor housing & sensor element during cold starts. Thanks again Pedro, you're a star! Oh and by the way, the clutch springs were knackered and the Stage 4 Competition Clutch is spot on.....seems 'juddery' right now but I'm sure that'll settle down once it beds it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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