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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Crank Pulley Death Wobble


Terminator

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That looks much more like a loose fitting pulley on the crank itself, which is very bad news as the crank nose and keyway will be worn, as well as the ID of the pulley. They can also jam up on the *uggered keyway when you try to pull them off. Hopefully I am wrong, but it looks to me that the WHOLE pulley, inner and outer, is wobbling, not just the elastomer bonded outer ring.

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Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.

 

Thankfully the crank and centre section of the pulley were perfect and a new pulley solved it.

 

Will steal this for a tech article shortly, thanks Termi :)

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Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.

 

Thankfully the crank and centre section of the pulley were perfect and a new pulley solved it.

 

Will steal this for a tech article shortly, thanks Termi :)

 

Is there any really early signs of detecting this? any unusal early behavior?

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Is there any really early signs of detecting this? any unusal early behavior?

 

An early sign is a slight squeal from the front of the engine when the auxiliary devices are under load such as when the AC is on, the steering under full lock and the rpm low. Like for example, reversing out of a drive. Mine failed only 50 or so miles after this started.

 

Class One recently had exactly the same symptoms.

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Mine *looked* much like that, though the movement was much more pronounced when the throttle was blipped.
I have to disagree with that, Darryl. Yours was quite different - the whole outer ring could be seen moving forwards and back but not oscillating like the one in the video above.
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TBH I can't see the diffrence from the vid, but I trust your word Jake :)

 

Have to agree on one part thought - the outer ring was moving around a great deal more than in the video -a much more pronouced forward/back movement. I really should have recorded it.

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Ive got through 2 of these now, currently on the third (both replacements have been second hand so thats my own fault) Is there anything stronger? Also, I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-Lexus-CS-GS300-RX300-Engine-Crank-Pulley_W0QQitemZ220133837213QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Worth alook at all?

 

Thanks

 

(btw, i too had squealing from my first 1 that went ether at low revs or on full lock, the previous time happened when I let off on a high speed run.)

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I really should have recorded it.
Looking back, that would've been good because it was a good example of the typical failed crank pulley problem.

One never thinks of these things at the time though. You just want your car fixed (Well, that's what I'm like anyway)

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Ive got through 2 of these now, currently on the third (both replacements have been second hand so thats my own fault) Is there anything stronger? Also, I came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-Lexus-CS-GS300-RX300-Engine-Crank-Pulley_W0QQitemZ220133837213QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Worth alook at all?

 

Thanks

 

First off (as you probably know), the 2nd failure should have said that a scrapper item wouldn't be much good (though I have fitted one myself, many thanks Jake :) )

 

And on that item you mention - hell no! That’s not even dampened! Though I prefer stock stuff over aftermarket, if you have to go aftermarket then it has to be the BL one, though it will cost you big money. It's dampened at least.

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I thought due to the Crank pulley sticking out, this causes the V belt to rotate in an angle causing the Squeel?

 

Use a feeler gauge inbetween the inner and outer Crank Pulley. If it's near to 32 mm then it's about to split off! A new one has a gap of only 1.3 mm or less.

 

 

Ro

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  • 8 months later...

Mate get it looked at asap

 

That looked exactly the same as mine when my pully was loose !

It destroyed the woodruff key and opened the key slot on the crank, luckly it did not damage the crank end.

 

Toyoda Tech managed to get his machinest to sort the problem but i warn you its not cheap ..... AT ALL if this needs to be done..... I have no issues since the new key and pully have been replaced, in fact its never run smoother :)

 

(although i did do a full cambelt and service as well while the front was off)

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Mate get it looked at asap

 

That looked exactly the same as mine when my pully was loose ........................................

 

Mine was just the outer the inner was fine and the crank snouts is fine no damage. The Woodruff key was just as it should be. The crank bolt was FT, needed the breaker/starter trick to get it undone. Puller was 3/8 steel plate custom made;)

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Guest dale69v

Think im gonna send it to the garage as im having no luck gettin this off

 

Is there anywhere in the uk that i can buy a BL pully from or will it have to come from the US ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Unfortunately we have thrown away the parts. However unbelievably the outer had completely separated from the inner and was laying in the under tray. The belt did not come off it some how stayed on the rubber of the inner hub and neatly cut grooves into the rubber. The only thing that let me know some thing was wrong was my battery kept going flat. Being over three years old, I assumed the battery was on the way out. With my big single build only weeks away, and a boot battery as part of the plans, I just kept a jump pack in the car. In reality, the tensioner was at its limit and the belt was not tight enough to enable the alternator to charge up the battery. I have no idea how long it had been like that, or how much longer it would have kept the belt on. A total fluke:blink:

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