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A few little problems (fuel gauge, fog light, electric mirrors)


Dazzi

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Hi,

A few ickle jobs that need doing on the supe.

 

  • Petrol Gauge

It reads fine but shows on the dial that there is more in then there actually is.

The red light for reserve comes on when the tank is close to empty but when it does it looks like you have a quarter tank left. – either needs calibrating or a new gauge fitting? Estimated Price to fix £?

 

  • Fog Light

Not really a problem, just annoying: When the brake light was converted last year to work as a fog light aswell as brake, a light comes on the dash to say you have rear brake light problem but you dont. The company who fitted the cobra alarm said its because it has broken the circuit by using the brake as a fog. – needs rewiring? Estimated Price to fix £?

 

  • Electric mirrors

The switch to control the mirrors don't work anymore. – possible loose connection This one i might be able to fix myself but if I can't, again Estimated Price to fix £?

 

Thanks, I would really appreciate someones responce in my time of need :)

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Hi,

A few ickle jobs that need doing on the supe.

  • Petrol Gauge

It reads fine but shows on the dial that there is more in then there actually is.

The red light for reserve comes on when the tank is close to empty but when it does it looks like you have a quarter tank left. – either needs calibrating or a new gauge fitting? Estimated Price to fix £?

  • Fog Light

Not really a problem, just annoying: When the brake light was converted last year to work as a fog light aswell as brake, a light comes on the dash to say you have rear brake light problem but you dont. The company who fitted the cobra alarm said its because it has broken the circuit by using the brake as a fog. – needs rewiring? Estimated Price to fix £?

  • Electric mirrors

The switch to control the mirrors don't work anymore. – possible loose connection This one i might be able to fix myself but if I can't, again Estimated Price to fix £?

 

Thanks, I would really appreciate someones responce in my time of need :)

I've had to deal with similar, or identical problems and the advice below worked for me. Total cost = a few quid down at Maplins and a few afternoons DIY. Don't be put off by any dismantling - it's quite simple if you're methodical.

 

PETROL GAUGE: Fill your tank to the brim. Strip back the dash and remove the instrument pod. Take all the covers off the dial faces and remove the fuel gauge needle (search for how to do this and be gentle). Then refit the instrument pod and turn the ignition on. Wait for a few minutes to allow the needle mount to reach the correct position and then push the fuel needle back on pointing at max. Re-assemble everything and the gauge should now read as normal.

 

FOG LIGHTS: See here for how to do your fog light conversion. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=80479&highlight=Fog+Light

I have tried all other ways of doing it and this is the one that works properly. Agian be methodical and it's no problem. A knowledge of soldering helps too. The resistors in that diagram stop the bulb-blown warning. Just make sure all your connections are good and properly earthed and you'll be fine.

 

MIRROR SWITCH: I have a spare electric mirror adjustment switch sitting around if it turns out you need a new one. I'll let you have it for the cost of postage. If it's not the switch then while your dash is in bits check all the wires on the multiplug that come off it. If that doesn't fix it then I'm stumped!

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Thanks matey!

 

The gauge sounds pretty simple and so does the mirror switch (which I have yet to test if its the switch or the wires as you said)

 

Even though I know my way round ESC's and brushless motors I might get professional to do this as I don't want to c0ck up my lights when they're not really broken to start with.

 

Thanks for your help again, massive help! ;)

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Guest Suprafly

I had the petrol guage problem not on my Supra but with a 300ZX, I reset this the way Mike Mac has described above.

 

The best way to remove the fuel guage pointer from the needle is by using the 'two spoons' method.

 

Use two teaspoons and CAREFULLY place the two ends of the spoons behind the base of the pointer, then carefully push down on the two spoon handles respectively, this will extract the pointer without damaging the delicate instrument that controls it.

 

You can re attach the pointer (after you have given it a few minutes to reach it's correct position as Mike says) just by carefully pushing it on by hand using very little pressure.

 

Be very gentle with this whole procedure as the slightest slip on the pointer will damage the instrument.

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Even though I know my way round ESC's and brushless motors I might get professional to do this as I don't want to c0ck up my lights when they're not really broken to start with.
Seriously I wouldn't bother. Just plan it out a bit in advance and be methodical. So long as you keep checking and label each wire as you cut it you'll be fine. :)
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