michael Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Which is considered the best and why? What sort of things should i be on the lookout for when selecting one? Any issues associated with them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I would have thought that a brand new stocker with a bonnet that vents the hot air more effectively (Veilside/Trial) would be as good a bet if not better than trying to retrofit any other type of radiator...the stock unit it very good...till it gets clogged. EDIT - Some aftermarket choices are; PWR Fluidyne KOYO ARC Custom UK made Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Is yours crumbling away. I had mine re-cored soon after buying the car by Northern Radiators. They had to use a lexus core as it was the only one big enough. I think I paid about £200 ish can check when I get home. The standard radiator is very good and would only need upgrading if you plan on doing track days with a car pushing over 500 bhp. I believe that TDI have used the standard radiator upto around 600 bhp !! Hope this helps, you might save some money at least !! :flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 My standard one isn't in too bad shape physically but it's the original 1994 unit so as a matter of prevention I'm looking to change it while the bumper is off and while my FMIC is being fitted. I had the system flushed by Toyota when I got the car in June 03 (supposedly) but the Forlife turns 'muddy' quite quickly so I'm thinking the rad may well be a little clogged up. Given the air flow issues that an FMIC can cause I thought it would be an ideal opportunity to install a more capable radiator like the Fluidyne to try and keep temps as low as possible. While not out to build a huge HP monster I am keen to keep everything as efficient as possible for trackdays and summer drag events. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 If whilst fitting your FMIC you make sure it's ducted properly so the air has to go through it to the radiator you'll be ok...make a good seal between the FMIC and the mouth of the nose and you'll be ok (+ make the IC mroe efficient) But yeah if your 4life is changing colour then you are looking at a replacement radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I also have an fmic, which I decided to do when replacing the radiator and ac condenser. I've recently been thinking about creating some kind of ducting for the fmic, has anyone done this, and if so, how ? Cheers !:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Marston or Modine will custom make a rad for you £££££ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I believe Chris Wilson does an aftermarket rad. which would be my first port of call should the need arise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 Any idea of the spec on the CW rad? Is it a pattern replacement sourced at a 'reduced' rate or an actual performance upgrade sort of thing? (PS I'd like a silver one... is it wrong to buy parts of this nature based on their colour?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Remeber Michael that yours has an oil cooler in it too - being an Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonball Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I have a PWR here - and fitted one on my Soop last time round Larger and better IMHO than the Fluidyne - superbly made too! Dont forget your cooler though - why not relocate the filter at the same time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I had 3 all alloy uprated rads made, but the cost was high, and even though the spec was far better than Fluidyne and others it seemed they were too costly to be worthwhile. I won't be getting more made in the near future. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 Originally posted by Peter Sharp Remeber Michael that yours has an oil cooler in it too - being an Auto Thumbs means good.... but is it likely to cause me issues? Will it need moving or will it just need to be considered when deciding on the thickness of the rad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 Originally posted by Paul E I have a PWR here - and fitted one on my Soop last time round Larger and better IMHO than the Fluidyne - superbly made too! PWR seems to be the other name I'm seeing around the place, I presume it slots in without modification to anything even though it's larger? Dont forget your cooler though - why not relocate the filter at the same time? Gearbox cooler? What do I need to do with this? Just remember it's there or arrange for a new one / relocation? By filter I trust you mean oil.... I gather you can buy relocation kits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Originally posted by mcanny Thumbs means good.... but is it likely to cause me issues? Will it need moving or will it just need to be considered when deciding on the thickness of the rad? I *think* that aftermarket rad's do not come with an oil cooler inside like the stock one. Just saying that you need to add (assuming this can be done) an external oil cooler if you junk the stock rad. More $$ I guess. Why upgrade or is this part of your master plan ? Not sure what prices are like but, a toyota one is ....let me check £311.11 + VAT (£365.55) - I think but, have removed EPC at the moment so, if someone can check part number T16400-46320 and confirm ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 I wasn't aware that the standard rad incorporated an oil cooler too, crikey those Toyota chaps are a clever bunch of lads! My reason for thinking about an upgrade is really because I've always worked on the basis that if something needs replacing it's often a good opportunity to get a better one for a little bit more money. Sounds like I need to do a lot more research on this subject before ordering anything though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Alex is pretty much spot on a GOD cond stock rad will pretty much do anything you need it to , i had a stock one in mine and did 3 flat out runs at bruntingthorpe back to back and only saw 200 degrees on my guage (farenheit) , cruising on the motorway at 100 it would read only 160 F Of course a Alloy one is a bit more efficient apparently due to thinner core size of the tubes !!!and it looks better and its a little lighter and ive got one on order !!!! Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 Originally posted by Zed Is yours crumbling away. I had mine re-cored soon after buying the car by Northern Radiators. They had to use a lexus core as it was the only one big enough. I think I paid about £200 ish can check when I get home. The standard radiator is very good and would only need upgrading if you plan on doing track days with a car pushing over 500 bhp. I believe that TDI have used the standard radiator upto around 600 bhp !! Hope this helps, you might save some money at least !! :flame Dev have you got a phone number for these, fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Originally posted by mcanny Thumbs means good.... but is it likely to cause me issues? Will it need moving or will it just need to be considered when deciding on the thickness of the rad? I had to relocate mine Mike, not sure weather you will have to with the intercooler that you have choosen (blitz i think?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Originally posted by ChrisB I had to relocate mine Mike, not sure weather you will have to with the intercooler that you have choosen (blitz i think?) Chris, Michael is talking about the oil cooler in the rad, not the external tranny cooler which, *might* need relocating from the bumper opening (opposite side to the SMIC) depending on the FMIC he is getting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 ahh my mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 22, 2004 Author Share Posted October 22, 2004 I suspect a standard rad will be enough for me then, this is going in with a Blitz LM FMIC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonball Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Originally posted by mcanny I suspect a standard rad will be enough for me then, this is going in with a Blitz LM FMIC. I have a very good used stock one here Micheal if I cant tempt you down the OhmyGodtha ooksbrillwhatisitaPWR?' route If not then a used uprated Greddy SMIC (apparently OK to 650+HP!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 The fluidyne is the better of the two ( Vs PWR) solely because IMHO the fitment is better. As most have said the stock one is cool Michael, I have a stock with a Blitz LM, and it's just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Michael, with my FMIC (HKS R-type) CW could not keep the stock external tranny cooler in it's original location. So, I'm running without one at the moment. The old one was 8yrs old so, time for a new one I guess. ChrisB relocated his to the other side pod where the SMIC was fitted. I think Chris has the 3row. HTH Oh, one other thing...if it helps ?...the rad overflow tank needs to be relocated due to the FMIC install and the HKS way is to place it in the wing near/under the headlight (see below) which, I did not like as it's totally out of view. So, after my Toyota episode I got a 2nd hand Greddy rad overflow tank and this is now in the place of the stock alarm siren which, has been relocated into the front bumper. NOT sure how BLITZ overcome this issue ? Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs and a little OT well...but, thought it might help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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