Nitrous boost switch - what are you using?

[SimonR]

Any good?

Sweet! You're pretty handy at this interweb. Thanks.

[JustGav]

Sweet! You're pretty handy at this interweb. Thanks.

 

More than welcome RS electronics is a goldmine of bits and pieces, find just about anything.

 

With the pressure gauge, and the activation switch, I consider putting in some sort of basic comparator circuit.

 

if wot AND boost THEN fire solenoid.

[Fish]

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=1797&SearchYN=N

 

Was looking in to similar myself and saw this on Dusty's site

[SimonR]

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=1797&SearchYN=N

 

Was looking in to similar myself and saw this on Dusty's site

Nice, but a bit pricey for me.

[couv3z]

not to highjack,

 

but how much was you nos kit i got a quote of 670 for a full kit with a controller (from NOS)

 

i've seen kit with out got for 800 (wizards of NoS),

 

surely with a controller is better as you csna fine tune to your driving style or it all coming in at 1000rpm

[SimonR]

not to highjack, but how much was you nos kit i got a quote of 670 for a full kit with a controller (from NOS)

I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.

 

i've seen kit with out got for 800 (wizards of NoS)

I wouldn't pay that much for a wife let alone a nitrous kit.

 

surely with a controller is better as you can fine tune to your driving style or it all coming in at 1000rpm

Dunno, this will be my first nitrous kit so I won't know until I've got some experience.

[Trig]

I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.

 

Just bought my billet double bottle holder from them, very nice price too

[JustGav]

I paid £308 for a dry kit from Cold Fusion. That's including bottle, purge kit and p+p from Texas.

 

I wouldn't pay that much for a wife let alone a nitrous kit.

 

Dunno, this will be my first nitrous kit so I won't know until I've got some experience.

 

Couple of points..

 

1. You might have hassles getting the bottle filled if it does not have an EU safety mark on it (Yes, I got caught out with this).

 

2. Be careful with a dry kit... you might have issues with running lean with the fuel

 

3. A progressive controller is a very good idea if you are going to go slightly bigger jets.

[SimonR]

You might have hassles getting the bottle filled if it does not have an EU safety mark on it (Yes, I got caught out with this).

Um...the kit has arrived and the bottle doesn't have any EU markings. I assume from your comment that suppliers can be precious about this.

 

Still, there are no such things as problems - only opportunities. This must be a common opportunity and I'm guessing that the easiest fix would be to do my own label with a EU mark. A quick rummage on the interweb hasn't revealed anything readily available. Is it just a case of sticking on a separate EU sticker or am I likely to have to forge a complete label from a compliant bottle? Who has done this and do you have a scan or at least a close-up pic that I can create my own label from?

[JustGav]

Um...the kit has arrived and the bottle doesn't have any EU markings. I assume from your comment that suppliers can be precious about this.

 

Still, there are no such things as problems - only opportunities. This must be a common opportunity and I'm guessing that the easiest fix would be to do my own label with a EU mark. A quick rummage on the interweb hasn't revealed anything readily available. Is it just a case of sticking on a separate EU sticker or am I likely to have to forge a complete label from a compliant bottle? Who has done this and do you have a scan or at least a close-up pic that I can create my own label from?

 

It all depends on the filler, most people should we say we will overlook it, however some may get funny...

 

Just try it, and see how it goes..

 

It isn't a label, it is an etching into the bottle usually.

[Ian C]

For all the hassle you are going to with pressure switches and logic circuits you may as well just run it off the E-Manage's sub injector driver

 

If the 5v driver can't run it, use it to trigger a fast switching relay that controls a 12v feed to the solenoid. That way you've got boost *and* rev windowing and you can pulse/stage it too with different duty cycles. I'm sure Gav could magic up a suitable relay, and that's all it'll cost you

 

-Ian

[Trig]

The bottle needs a "pye" (like the maths symbol) mark on it to be EU certified. will be inscribed into the bottle probably next to the serial number. im gonna try these when i fill up as i have american nitrous express bottles....

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nos-Nitrous-Oxide-Refills-10-11-Lbs-Wizards-NX-NO2_W0QQitemZ220125943339QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[SimonR]

For all the hassle you are going to with pressure switches and logic circuits you may as well just run it off the E-Manage's sub injector driver

 

If the 5v driver can't run it, use it to trigger a fast switching relay that controls a 12v feed to the solenoid. That way you've got boost *and* rev windowing and you can pulse/stage it too with different duty cycles. I'm sure Gav could magic up a suitable relay, and that's all it'll cost you

 

-Ian

Yes, I'd already thought of doing that but I assumed that I'd need something to convert the 5v signal to some form of solenoid control.

 

Gav?

[couv3z]

The bottle needs a "pye" (like the maths symbol) mark on it to be EU certified. will be inscribed into the bottle probably next to the serial number. im gonna try these when i fill up as i have american nitrous express bottles....

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nos-Nitrous-Oxide-Refills-10-11-Lbs-Wizards-NX-NO2_W0QQitemZ220125943339QQihZ012QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

send away your bottle and get it back bit risky

[Trig]

send away your bottle and get it back bit risky

 

Its done the same way by http://www.nitrousoxidesupplies.co.uk, but they wont refill non EU bottles, although i am still trying to find somewhere locally that will do it.

[SimonR]

Who is Gav?

[JustGav]

Me!!

[JustGav]

Just got in the door... I'll look into it now for you...

[JustGav]

As Ian said, I would use a relay, however maybe not an old school relay, but rather a solid state one. Just checking some datasheets now, for something suitable.

[JustGav]

Here is the a few to choose from

 

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2508802501&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape

 

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2509033807&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape

 

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2509033920&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape

 

This one is probably the best bet.. Can handle 5A on the output side, runs happily on a switching voltage of 5v

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=solid%20relay%205v&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=solid%20relay%205v&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2508806840&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape

http://docs-alliedelec.electrocomponents.com//Images/Products/DataSheets/821-8202.pdf

 

10A DC version in the same series - http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?obs=sObs&name=SiteStandard&No=0&N=0&Ntk=I18NAll&Ntt=G3NA-D210B&Nty=1&D=G3NA-D210B&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&callingPage=/jsp/line/line.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0912415356.1183571335@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdkaddlgelghejcefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape&Nr=avl:uk

 

Easy to wire in as well, - to ground and + to the 5v switching output of the emanage. The load side can go directly to the solenoids then.

[SimonR]

Me!!

Sorry mate!

 

I looked at those items and there's a lot of electrobabble that's over my head. All I want is a relay that will switch according to an input voltage between 0v and 5v. Doesn't have to be scalable in any way, I just need to know what voltage the relay would require me to send from the Emanage. I would then wire the relay in with the NC as part of the nitrous circuit so that the voltage that I send will switch the relay to NO, thereby breaking the circuit and cutting off the nitrous.

 

Can you advise which one of those would fit the bill?

[JustGav]

Go for this one then...

 

 

G3NA-205B

 

Do a search on rswww.com for it.

 

Easy to wire in as well, - to ground and + to the 5v switching output of the emanage. The load side can go directly to the solenoids then.

[SimonR]

Gav,

 

At the risk of making myself appear even thicker than usual, from the wiring diagram below the 3 would be the 0-5v from the Emanage, the 4 would be ground and the 1 and 2 would form part of the circuit for the NOS? The 1/2 would be closed until a certain voltage was sent to 3?

 

This is the diagram for the G3NA-205B.

[JustGav]

Gav,

 

At the risk of making myself appear even thicker than usual, from the wiring diagram below the 3 would be the 0-5v from the Emanage, the 4 would be ground and the 1 and 2 would form part of the circuit for the NOS? The 1/2 would be closed until a certain voltage was sent to 3?

 

This is the diagram for the G3NA-205B.

 

Don't panic, don't mind the questions.

 

Yes, 4 would be ground, and 3 the emanage connection. I need to check the datasheets to confirm what the default state is off the unit, I believe it could normally open till voltage applied, but I will confirm.

[SimonR]

I believe it could normally open till voltage applied, but I will confirm.

Did you get a chance to have another look? Any help appreciate here