Steve W Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Just picked up my 'Beastie' yesterday and very pleased with it (of COURSE !!). [jap'/TT/auto/std + just Mongoose cat'back/73,000K] It's going back to dealer to have front shocks fitted (MOT by them - no charge for shocks - OK then). AND any "other niggles found". 1)Don't think front spoiler is deploying... light NEVER comes on (next to buttons). How do you know, should it come down if 'DOWN' is pressed. OR only at high speed i.e. someone needs to 'lead' down road and see . . ? ? 2)After toodling along M25 at ~50-80 to check for smells/noises /steering etc.etc. traffic 'disappeared' and found myself on this really long/straight PRIVATE road, and FLOORED it - OH YES ! Streaked up to 120dibdobs and cut out for a split second. Is that Jap' speed limiter ? (ind.120 = ~true112 ??) 3)Almost every time I rev over ~4500/5000 Hazard sign pops up in rev counter. I know this is the GENERAL warning but what for? [ Shouldn't I have an Oil light on when 'check' lights on before starting-up. Only got belts/bags etc. in LEFT cluster and 'slip off' etc in clocks . Nothing alight in RIGHT cluster ??] Ride is particularly stiff (not uncomfortable mind you) and it only has the 16" rims. HOW HARD IS IT WITH 18's/19's/20's ????? Is it harder to get the 16" tyres than the 17" (225/50-16, 245/50-16)? Left speaker is a bit rattly too (>> free fix hopefully?) Though standard speakers aren't CRAP just not wonderful.? English Sony double-din is OK. Hoping it will control my Sony autochanger ??? SORRY, this has dragged on please feel free to YAWN and disregard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 The electric faults are more than likely to be a result of a ropey KM/MPH conversion... Use the search facility theres been plenty of threads on this. The right hand warning light cluster can be damaged during dash removal Oh ...... the standard speakers *are* crap!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 1. Switch the ignition all the way on, but don't start the car. Press the active spoiler button and it should come down. However this doesn't guarantee that the spoiler is coming down at the appropriate speed (approx 56mph). 2. Yep that's the Jap speed limiter. 3. Hmmm not too sure, without a bit more info. But as Matt said it seems like you may have a dodgy kmh -> mph conversion, because this may account for 1 and 3. Speak to the garage and tell them to get it right, if they don't deal with Supra's much then they'll probably struggle. As Matt mentions use the search facility on here and you will find shed loads on speedo conversions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Hi Steve I can possibly help with 1 I had the same problem with my 93 GZ TT. Spoiler worked when car was stationary but did not drop when driving. (Did actually deploy @ approx 90 mph). Also steering got light at high speed and cruise control did not function correctly. Took mine to Pete Betts (He's on this list). He fitted his own KPH/MPH converter system. Everything works perfectly now. If you have an auto, even the gear changes are smoother! I cannot recommend this enough! In fact I think it could even help with 2. Give him a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 22, 2002 Author Share Posted March 22, 2002 YES... SORRY I forgot, The Cruise-Control doesn't seem to work at all AND the airbag light is on all the time...! How many of these faults can be speedo-convertor-problems OR has someone (the dealer) made a complete pig's-ear of the wiring in-dash . . ? ? The problem is, THEY have to fix it. They are a main agent Mazda dealers AND they have supplied it with a full 3-year WHA warranty (parts and labour, mechanical and electrical). Besides it hasn't been supplied 'in working order' yet. SO, I WILL have it fixed now by them while I still can. If they're not able to fix it, who can look at it/fix it as a proper/invoiced-type job [assuming the dealer will sub-contract it ?!] Someone like T.D.i. ? / J.I.C. ? or does anyone on here do "proper" work on MKIV's ps. the Mongoose system IS fairly restrained. Nice note but doesn't SOUND like a 'performance exhaust' (rear box is 'straight-through' presume middle box is too?) (Edited by Steve W at 10:34 pm on Mar. 22, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Go to Mr. Betts first off...then once he's worked his magic then we can look at the rest. If there is anything mechanically wrong go back to the dealer, if its electronics Pete Betts seems to have the answers or the ability to work them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 I believe that if you disconnect the airbag warning light and then turn on the ignition, the airbag warning light will stay on. I don't think that it is a big problem to reset it. Speak to Pete Betts - he can advise you better than I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Cruise control not working = KMH to MPH conversion botched Airbag light on = somebody switched ignition on whilst dash was in pieces. has someone (the dealer) made a complete pig's-ear of the wiring in-dash . . ? ? = BIG YES Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but they obviously don't know Supra's and unless they do a bit of research (like on this site) then they are very unlikely to get it sorted. Pete Betts can do the work for you and provide an invoice (i think) and i would very strongly advise that you pursue this route. The dealer is probably going to take many attempts to get this right and all the time he is going to be taping into wires and rejoining old ones etc and i for one would not be happy with that. Take a look around for one of Pete's posts (under TRL Performance) and he has a link to his website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Jesssszzzz i guess he will get the message!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 22, 2002 Author Share Posted March 22, 2002 Where are TRL/Mr.Betts based ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Kenilworth, near Coventry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 22, 2002 Author Share Posted March 22, 2002 Thank You Mr. Flynn, If need be I could get that far { Don't fancy going TOO far with all my warning lights playing-up, or not even working ESPECIALLY the oil light ! ! ! } I'll see what the dealer says WHILST pushing in 'that' direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon F Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Hope you get it all sorted soon.....welcome to the club! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cargill Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Quote: from Steve W on 7:46 pm on Mar. 22, 2002[br]J Ride is particularly stiff (not uncomfortable mind you) and it only has the 16" rims. HOW HARD IS IT WITH 18's/19's/20's ????? Is it harder to get the 16" tyres than the 17" (225/50-16, 245/50-16)? Hi Steve, have a look at your shocks, if they are yellow then you have the Toyota Bilstien sports pack (or whatever they call it). I've got them and the ride is VERY hard, really noticable on rough ground. It does handle well though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 23, 2002 Author Share Posted March 23, 2002 Slight update... {I'll look at shocks in a MO'} Didn't like the idea of no Oil Warning Light so I went out this morning and tapped/pressed the right 'cluster'. Lights come on/off (surprise - NOT). When I got to work - scived off for 15 minutes and unscrewed the top strip with the lights/trips in. Sure enough the block connector to the right 'cluster' was tempremental. Pulled it in and out a few times and now have level/pressure/management and ABS lights on OK. This is A) GOOD because they all come ON with ignition and OFF when started. and B) BAD because when I tried to STOMP it on the motorway, the 'hazard' warning light (tach) come on again but WITH the management light. [Goes off when ignition OFF/ON'd] However, now goes to ~130thingbings before the 'cut-out' occurs. Reckon this is still limiter ??, or, some fuel problem (=management) ?? THEY filled it with normal unleaded before I took it so I'm going out in a minute to top up with Super/Optimax(?) and some Oct' Boost ?? I'll see what happens. ANYBODY have any problems with normal unleaded or just 'not advisable'.?? ps. NOW the spoiler DOES deploy at standstill, with spoiler light, but no light when moving, at any speed. Is button IN or OUT for auto-deploy ?? (Edited by Steve W at 3:29 pm on Mar. 23, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Optimax with no additional additives. Autodeploy should be out. You can get to 130mph with the speed limiter in place - its not the most ridgid system ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 23, 2002 Author Share Posted March 23, 2002 Oh Well, I was only hoping it was 'curing' itself (HA..!) Of what I don't know. What possible things can the Management Light be (or more to the point what isn't it i.e. it's NOT fuel cut?, it's NOT the limiter?) Other than the obvious "the whole ignition system and injection system are dropping out the car". I have no handbook [ but then wouldn't the handbook just say "see a Toyota Dealer" ??]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cargill Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Fuel cut... Depending on the upgrades you've got and the weather will dictate when it happens. In the summer I hit it once after 20 seconds WOT going up an incline. At 1 degree C it hits it in 2 seconds from 60 leptons. If follows the following sequence... Floor the loud pedal and get huge grin. Get even bigger grin. HUGH BANG, red triange, brown pants automatically lift off power, think the car has exploded. By the time you've recoverd the red triange has gone out and all is normal again. Spend the next 10 minutes driving carefully before putting a post on the BBS/list asking WTF happened today I think that the speed limiter is the same, but much less violent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 23, 2002 Author Share Posted March 23, 2002 Mmmmmm.... I'm getting THOSE symptoms almost exactly. It's like someone's cut the 'electrics' and by the time you've thought "What The..." the speed has dropped about 5or10 LPN's and it's OK again , BUT the warning triangle (AND the Management Light!) STAYS on till I stop/switch off/and on again (that's the only worrying bit...??) Mmmmmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cargill Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Hi Steve, I'd typed out a big reply, spell checked it and then the effing machine crashed. So, here is a potted summary I hope... 1) Get a boost gauge fitted ASAP, find out what is going on there 2) I've always seen the warning lights go off straight away on the Supra. On my MR2 Turbo they would stay on after it went into 'same' mode if I ran it on 95RON. 3) Maybe try and get the diagnostics code out of it. Can't think where the instructions are but short out two pins on the diag port then count the dots and dashes when you turn on the ignition. 4) When I picked mine up, I also had intermittent top-right warning lights, they sorted out a dry joint, apparently... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 24, 2002 Author Share Posted March 24, 2002 I think I'll have to take it to Toyotas... Is the large round socket by driver's right shin a diagnostic plug ?? The Engine Management/Warning Symbol are NOT coming on at a certain rev's.... I tried switching out the Overdrive and/or using 'MANU' and both ways I can rev high. The lights come on at 100 to 105 **** . No noise, No fuss, Just the lights. Same SPEED every time ??? The only other thing I've noticed is even after driving at 'sane' speeds (ie. cruising 40 to 80 ****) if you switch off and jump out, ther's a lot of tinkling/crinkling (?) from under car - Lower/2nd cat ? It does look a bit old/rusty, but I've seen worse. {Thinking about it - Stainless 'tinkles' as it's cooling = Mongoose.. possibly} GOING TO TRY TOYOTAS ANYWAY but any more ideas . . ? ? (Edited by Steve W at 8:58 pm on Mar. 24, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 24, 2002 Share Posted March 24, 2002 I had a similar no of problems all relating to my Speed Signal....and the fact I didn't have one past the Odometer.... This is now fixed as the TRL DSC regenerates the speed signal and dishes it back out to the ECU. No funny lights coming on after I pass 60mph.. You should see what happens when it hits 88mph!! :biggrin: (Edited by Alex Holdroyd at 8:57 pm on Mar. 24, 2002) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted March 24, 2002 Author Share Posted March 24, 2002 I'm HOPING it IS just a speed-convertor-type problem.. As I say, NO noise/NO smells/NO fuss - just lights. It's a real pain 'cos other than that it drives AT LEAST as well as I'd hoped. Really smooth acceleration etc.etc. If I don't go over 100**** it's perfect (obviously got to get the cats' off) BUT Engine Management Light !!!!! = worry (I take it that IS a Management Light ???) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 24, 2002 Share Posted March 24, 2002 The big square one with a triangle and ! sign is a warning light to say something is wrong to know ts engine related its the first one on the right hand side pod little outline of an engine side on. Have you tried re-setting your ECU?? Open up the fuse cover on the right side of the engine bay behind the battery and pull the two EFI 30 amp fuses the diagram is on the underside of the lid to guide you. Leave them out for 1-10mins and then place them back in.... fire up the car take it for a spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted March 24, 2002 Share Posted March 24, 2002 Is the odo working? - I had similar symptoms/warning lights when I drove the car without the odo connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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