Ark Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Isn't 95° just a tad high for a switch point? Since the thermostat opens at what, 80°, wouldn't that make a more sensible switch point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Thanks for all youre replies interesting stuf two things i still need to know 1 at what temp should you set the electirc fans to come on and 2 is the fans blowing hot air over the boost pipe and air box detrimental to performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Thanks for all youre replies interesting stuf two things i still need to know 1 at what temp should you set the electirc fans to come on and 2 is the fans blowing hot air over the boost pipe and air box detrimental to performance I insulate the IC pipework with polystyrene,then wrapped with tape. Not bling but effective. Have mounted a huge K&N filter externally (below the headlight) so everything is cool. Infact, the throttlebody is cold to touch after a hard run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Thanks for all youre replies interesting stuf two things i still need to know 1 at what temp should you set the electirc fans to come on and 2 is the fans blowing hot air over the boost pipe and air box detrimental to performance You've got an airbox to shield your intake charge from the hot air in the first place. And the heating effect from air blowing past the boost pipe will be negligible too, given the much greater heating it already gets from the turbos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Most important is ducting the FMIC/rad. My ducting is totally sealed. ALL the air that enters the fmic must travel through the rad, infact, when the fans are running, air is sucked through the fmic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supradibbs Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 dont most people wire them into the temp sensor for the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 coz the stock fan is engine driven woud that use power which otherwise could be saved using an leccy fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 the electric fans need power too ! they just take it from the alternator/battery, which is driven/charged by the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 Isn't 95° just a tad high for a switch point? Since the thermostat opens at what, 80°, wouldn't that make a more sensible switch point? I think the switch point for the two stock electric fans on the back of the rad is 100c. The safe temp for the system is well above that (otherwise Toyota would have them switching lower, wouldn't they? ). So 95c seems logical to me (I can adjust this if it's incorrect). As for other points of reference. My Pug switches at 98c, my bike switches at 100c (same as the sup). Can anybody tell me what the top hose temp is on a stock cooling set-up? I'd be interested if it's around 80. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 the electric fans need power too ! they just take it from the alternator/battery, which is driven/charged by the engine so the power gains the adverts say is just boll**ks aswell then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolarbag Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 As far as I see it, your taking rotating mass away from the engine, the stock fan weighs around 2-3kg, as for the alternator drawing more current...yes it would, but its not the same load on the engine as the parasitic drag that the fan would be, we dont live in a climate where the fans are that crucial anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 so the power gains the adverts say is just boll**ks aswell then? I'm not sure what power gains have been claimed? The stock fan is being driven when it's not required (even if only by drag), the electric fan only comes on when required. I think that's more efficient. Whether the electric fan requires so much energy to operate when it's switched on that it negates all the gains whilst it's been switched off is open to debate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 As far as I see it, your taking rotating mass away from the engine, the stock fan weighs around 2-3kg, as for the alternator drawing more current...yes it would, but its not the same load on the engine as the parasitic drag that the fan would be, we dont live in a climate where the fans are that crucial anyways That's certainly true in Scotland from what I remember;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 dont most people wire them into the temp sensor for the rad I started out like that, using the power from this to switch a relay, so all 3 fans would come on at the same time. I feel more comfortable with the main fan on at 95, backed up by the smaller two fans at 100 (not that I've been close to this since dropping the switch temp to 95). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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