Sheefa Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Here we go then..... http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/165364.htm Wil be going on Autotrader next week too. Looking realistically for £8.5k, but we'll have to see I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Nice low milage car you got there:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Nice low milage car you got there:) LOL thanks Jamie. Well, personally the engine is the mileage I'd be interested in but of course I do state that the car itself has covered in excess of 100,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Ahh i see, i never read the bottom part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 The bit about the leak-down test is odd - unless I'm mistaken, there SHOULD be air escaping, just not a lot. And certainly more than 1psi over 6 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 The bit about the leak-down test is odd - unless I'm mistaken, there SHOULD be air escaping, just not a lot. And certainly more than 1psi over 6 hours Not what Greg said Bob. He said it was pumped up to 60psi and he was extremely happy that it didn't have any leaks etc in the head and didn't drop a bit mate. I'll confirm though. http://www.aa1car.com/library/leakdown.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=77839 Greg, I think TF Greg is on about pressure testing the head On a leakdown test of the assembled engine you definitely should be seeing air escaping. Found this little snippet of info: It's really pretty simple to build your own leak down compression tester... The tricky part is getting an adapter that will screw into the spark plug hole. It sounds like the hose compression tester you now have, assuming it is a screw in type, will work. So, using that hose, attach a air pressure gauge (0-150psi) and to this a means of attaching it to a air compressor. Do put a quick release coupling between the gauge and the air source. Also you'll need a valve between the gauge and the air supply. On the one I made I adapted an old air blower nozzle to use as a valve. Your air source should supply at least 100 psi. At sea level atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi, so 8:1 compression would be 118 psi. Once you've filled the cylinder with air you want to cut off the supply of air so you can observe the rate the air in the cylinder leaks out. Now, rotate the engine so that the cylinder you're testing is in the compression stroke (both valves closed). Replace the spark plug with your tester, fill the cylinder with air (100+ psi) and watch the gauge and listen. Here's the typical things you'll see... 1) Gauge falls slowly, no audible hisses - this is normal and GOOD! 2) Gauge falls fairly quickly, no audible hisses, no bubbles in the radiator - rings maybe worn 3) Gauge falls fairly quickly, no audible hisses, bubbles in the radiator - blown head gasket 4) Gauge falls quickly, no audible hisses - worn valve or valve seat 5) Gauge falls quickly, audible hiss - burnt or leaking valve, listen to carb/intake or exhaust to isolate intake or exhaust valve... 6) Gauge never registers any pressure!!! BIG PROBLEM! Bent valve, holed piston, holed cylinder, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted May 2, 2007 Author Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks Bob. I did ask Greg to do a leakdown test so I'll find out what exactly hasbeen done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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