jusie Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Not had the supe long and want to do an oil change. been reading the board and it seams that most of you use mobil 1 . Was not sure weather to use this or stick to the valvoline I have always used . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 I can send some Valvoline VR1 Racing down with your lights tommorow Jusie Gaz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jusie Posted August 24, 2004 Author Share Posted August 24, 2004 Do you think that the valvoline is the best already have that one just didnt know as alot seam to rate the mobil 1 . Does that mean my HKS bov has arrived are you sending it to day i am down at the garage tomorrw. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Originally posted by jusie Not had the supe long and want to do an oil change. been reading the board and it seams that most of you use mobil 1 . Was not sure weather to use this or stick to the valvoline I have always used . i'd use any major brand multivalve oil in the correct rating 10-30w or 10-40W (easier to find). The valvoline will be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 The Mobil 1 is too thin Jusie. The motorsport version is good though Regards, Gaz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Ester based Synthetic oils are the "best" for our use. Other synthetics are second best but still way better then semi or mineral oil. Valvoline 5w50 is a good oil which no-one has had a problem with. Mobil1 has a habit of getting passed the seals/rings but I believe that's usually because people buy the 0w40 stuff and not the 15w40 motorsport Oil. So it's not mobil1's fault that you bought the wrong thickness of oil. 0w is the thinnest oil hence it gets passed seals easier. their 15w Motorsport oil is thicker. If you want Ester based synthetic then I know of Silkolene Pro-S 10w50 but I can't name any others off the top of my head. Thinner oil is ONLY good for cold start protection. And those that only run their car to the shops and back - barely getting the engine warm. Personally if I had my time again I'd go for something thicker than 5w50 Valvoline as when I got the car I was doing lots of long journey's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 the 0w40 stuff and not the 15w40 motorsport Oil. There is NO difference between these two ratings at full operating temperature. The thickness of the oil is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Ive been reading the oil threads on the forum....to say that I am all confused now would be an understatement. UPDATE: I think Valvoline or Silkoline get the thumbs up here. Will check out the prices, if too expensive then will need an alternative. Problem is that I am not sure whats in the car at the moment? but even if it is semi-synth or mineral in there and I drop in fully synth it wont damage the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 hi , ive used valvolene in the car for the last year 5 50 , now its called vr1. had no problems with the oil passing any seals, seems to suit the car very well . in fact just ordered four bottles from gaz . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 There is NO difference between these two ratings at full operating temperature. The thickness of the oil is the same. So why does th 0w40 get past the seals and the 15w40 doesn't... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 hi alex ,the numbers of the oil goes something like this . the first number is the thickness of the oil, so you want a low number but not to low , for the reasons youve stated , and the second number is the operating temperature the oil can handle , so a high number is good for turbo engines like in the supra . cheers peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffvalenti Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 hi alex ,the numbers of the oil goes something like this . the first number is the thickness of the oil, so you want a low number but not to low , for the reasons youve stated , and the second number is the operating temperature the oil can handle , so a high number is good for turbo engines like in the supra . cheers peter Unfortunately Peter that's not quite right. The following link explains it as good as any, and certainly better than I could http://www.texacoxpresslube.com/carcare/article_viscosity.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hornet Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I would recommend Silkolene Pro-S 10w50 from Opie oils. Speak to Simon or Guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 hi alex ,the numbers of the oil goes something like this . Peter, My quote was directed at IMI - seeing as he seemed to be saying the 0w40 stuff would be fine...but it's not cause when it's cold it's too thin. I use Silkolene Pro S 10w50 or Valvoline 5w50 depending on how I feel. However I'm tempted to try a 10w40 next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter richards Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 i had a feeling somebody would be cleaver on this subject , i read what you added there geoff, yeh really explains the mans question ! if your a rocket scientist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Alex..... I was commenting on the viscosity @ FULL OPERATING TEMP between 0-40 and 15-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 I can't see how that's helpful?? You've completely lost me on this. If it still gets past the seals when warming up, it still not a good idea to use it in a Supra. It's just seems like pointing out a chocolate fireguard will work for the 3secs before it melts?! All IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 if youve got a low mileage engine then 0W-40 shouldnt get past the seals (it never did in my prelude). But if your engine's been treated to 10-30 or 15-40 whatever for most of its life, then it wouldnt make sense going to a more fluid oil when cold. I have no idea what my sup is running at the moment, to be on the safe side, i will be going for a 10 base or 15 base oil. 0W-40 based oils should give you better cold start protection. and they do warm up quicker too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Honda NA engines tend to have tighter tolerances (which is great) than Turbo engines even Toyota ones. So the possibility of oil getting past the seals is lower. I dare say it would be "nice" to use really low friction/viscosity oil but it's not practical in the Supra with the tolerances it has and the forces it generates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted January 6, 2005 Share Posted January 6, 2005 Try this, it's probably a bit more understandable. I recommend 5w-40, 10w-40 or 10w-50 depending on mods and usage. Use a decent synthetic like Silkolene or Motul if you want the best protection, if it's just cost you're interested in then use a decent semi-synthetic. What is this thing called viscosity? It’s written on every can of oil and it’s the most important visible characteristic of an oil. The viscosity of an oil tells you how it reacts in certain circumstances and how it performs as a lubricant. When a oil is subjected to external forces, it resists flow due to internal molecular friction and viscosity is the measure of that internal friction. Viscosity is also commonly referred to as the measurement of the oils resistance to flow. There are two methods of viewing an oils resistance to flow. Firstly there is Kinematic Viscosity which is expressed as units indicating the flow of volume over a period of time and this is measured in centistokes (cSt). An oils viscosity can also be viewed by measured resistance. This is known as Apparent Viscosity and it is measured in centipoises (cP). However in the real world an oils viscosity is also referred to in such terms as thin, light and low etc. This suggests that the oil flows or circulates more easily. Conversly, terms such as heavy and high etc suggest the fluid has a stronger resistance to flow. The reason for viscosity being so important is because it is directly related to the oils load-carrying ability - The greater an oils viscosity, the greater the loads that it can withstand. (It must be added when new not over a period of time as all oils “shear down” with use) An oil must be capable of separating the moving parts in your engine at the operating temperature. On the basis that an oils viscosity is related to its load carrying ability, you could be fooled into thinking that “thicker” oils are better at lubricating but, you’d be wrong in this assumption. The fact is that in the wrong application a high viscosity oil can be just as damaging as using a low viscosity oil. The use of an oil that’s too “thin” can cause metal-to-metal contact, poor sealing and increased oil consumption and conversely, an oil that’s too “thick” can cause increased friction, reduced energy efficiency, higher operating temperatures, and poor cold starts in cold temperatures. It is very important that you select the correct oil, not too “light” or too “heavy” and your Owners Handbook is a very good place to start as it lists the temperatures and options. Oils thicken at low temperatures and thin as the temperature increases. The actual rate of change is indicated by their viscosity index (this number normally listed on the oils technical data sheet indicates the degree of change in viscosity of an oil within a temperature range, currently 40-100 degrees centigrade) An oil with a high viscosity index, will normally behave similarly at these two temperatures but an oil with a low viscosity index will behave quite differently. It will become very fluid, thin and pour easily at high temperatures. A higher index is better! Multi-grade oils are designed to perform at high and low temperatures by adding polymers to a base oil (5w,10w, 15w etc) which are heat sensitive and “uncoil” to maintain the higher viscosity sae 30,40,50 etc. This means that the oil can be used “all year round” rather than using different oils for summer and winter. It is important to understand that the selection of the correct oil for your car is not just guesswork, you must consider the temperatures at which you need the oil to operate a 0w, 5w oil is better for cold starts as the oil circulates more easily when it’s cold and is able to flow around the engine more easily and quickly, offering protection at the critical moments following cold engine start-up. These oils are also known to give better fuel economy and engine performance. Finally, all oils “shear” or thin down with use and this means that an oil that started life as a 10w-40 will with use become a 10w-20. The period of time this takes depends on the type and quality of the oil. The most “shear stable” oils are proper Synthetics, either PAO (Poly Alph Olefins) or Esters which have very high thermal stability. They are in general of the more expensive variety but last longer and give the best levels of protection. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr keef Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Catrol RS was the daddy 10/60 used it in all my cars gti-r gt turbo etc etc and had no problems at all,but they went and changed it to 0/40 now i think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Castrol RS 10w-60 is still available, in fact we still sell it. However, quality wise it's not the daddy as it's a hydrocracked oil. The daddies are Silkolene PRO S and Motul 300V or 8100. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr keef Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Castrol RS 10w-60 is still available, in fact we still sell it. However, quality wise it's not the daddy as it's a hydrocracked oil. The daddies are Silkolene PRO S and Motul 300V or 8100. Cheers Simon How much is it mate?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest M4CCA Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Hi people, im a newbie to the site... Firstly i would like to say that Oilman is commonly found on a vast majority of Forums and his knowledge when it comes to oils are second to none... As he said, the best are Ester based fully synthetic oils. And that comes at a price too. You pay for what you get basically. Personally i wouldnt use ANYTHING but Silkolene Pro S Oil in a high powered turbocharged engine. I know as a newbie to the forum my comments will probably be taken with a pinch of salt but i just wanted to say my piece as ive alot of respect for Oilman, he is honest and he doesnt beat around the bush. And more over, is happy to prove absolulty everything he says. Oh and nice site people, dont mind if i stick around do you? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I have read Oilmans post and completely agree...Not only does he know a lot about oil, but I like the way he explains things........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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