hodge Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 previously ive had problems with sticking bucket inside the head. i have reconed the head and all the buckets pots have been polished out side there was no tightness at all. The car was put back together and has ran perfect for only 3-4 days (driven very carefully). The 1st time i took it out and gave it a bit of a hiding, the next day I had problems with the car starting. i found there to be no compression on pot 6. So i took the am covers off and both buckets on pot 6 at the injector side of the engine were stuck in again ?????? Now being concerned that this is an oil supply problem I turned the engine over with the cam covers off to see how much oil supply was getting the the head. I was under the opinion that the oil should spray everywhere, but it took a while of turning it over to lube the cams etc. My question is should I be seeing alot more oil being pumped around the head as im turning it over. If ive got a oil starvation problem its not going to be long before something tightens up, I.E. the buckets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 You won't see much oil flow on cranking. If the oil flow was so restricted as to seize the buckets I would have thought the cams themselves would have seized or even snapped. Will a powerful stick magnet raise the buckets? If so it will be the valves that have seized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 I havent taken the cams out yet to try to take the buckets out. This is the second time it has happened on the same buckets. The pockets where the buckets go were polished out and the buckets ran really smoothly in and out. Im thinking its oil problems because pot 6 is the furthist away from the oil pump. Even when the car was running after it was rpaird the 1st time if i took the oil cap off I would have expected to see oil splashing around but there wasnt. Have you any pointers Chris. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 it does sound like bent valves to me or possible valve guides. cannot see the buckets sticking down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 What are the cam bearing clearances like? What happened the first time something went wrong? What was done to repair it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 There was alot of carbon build up on the valves and some of the pockets where the buckets sit had really bad score marks in the bottom so the buckets were being compressed by the cams but due to the score marks they were sticking hence holding the valves open which resulted in overfueling and the car would not start. This was all quite a sudden thing. The head was taken off, I removed all the carbon from the valves and reground the valves in, the buckets were checked for burrs and the pots where the buckets go were also polished out to remove score marks and roughness, I had the head cleaned and degreased, rebuilt it, reshimmed it and it went back on. Im totally stumped as why its happened again, which is why I was looking towards the idea oil starvation. any surgestions or ideas Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattanna Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Oil Pick up strainer mesh blocked?, know these engines are bad for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 mattanna has the right idea, this engine should have had a full and total strip, clean and rebuild, with another head on it. If the bucket bores were scored so were the cam bearings. Personally, if cost was an issue, I'd look for a good used engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Where abouts in the engine would the strainer mesh be, am i right in thinking it would be inside the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Yes, in the sump, an engine out job to access it I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattanna Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Mine was mainly blocked and my engine knackered, obviously you will get no oil feed or very poor causing high temps and warping of various things, i have been advised despite some conjecture on here that when changing oil on these engines you should use an oil flush to prevent this pick up from becoming blocked as oil change alone may not, obviously the oil in your sump will still look ok and probably clean if it is new as it will not have been far around the engine!!, you will get some oil feed if it is not 100% blocked but will cause engine to run hot internally, i am no technical master but have learnt the hard way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Oh well I gues its engine out then. Ive taken engines and stripped them before but nothing this size but i suppose an engines an engine. Theres only 1 way to learn. No dought ill be asking alot of questions and queries to you guys on the way if you dont mind. Thanks for all the help so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Find a running, good used engine, it'll cost a fraction of properly rebuilding yours. The whole thing'll be pretty knackered if it's run with oil that has carbonised. Try and get one with turbos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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