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Car won't idle - the saga continues


Homer

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Okay, it JUST about manages to idle. The data from the log files show the following at 450rpm (it will not idle any higher):

 

Injector duration: 6.8ms

Injector duty: 3%

 

Now, normally it has a 2.1ms duration and 1%, so the above confirms it is a massive overfuel causing the bad idle (Nothing has changed on the map). Only thing is - what can cause this that hasn't been mentioned already?

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Can you run it for long enough to compare hot idling to cold idling?

 

Thanks for thge suggestion Dan. I could keep it going for 15 minutes to get it warm but I think thats extremely bad for the engine (bore wash, sensor fauling, plugs, etc). Also the last time this happened the car was warm (had just pulled up at a petrol station), so I do not think its a problem between the cold/warm idle settings.

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Get it trailered to a Pro... then start enjoying it again

 

I already tried Phoenix (twice) but Mark, though a fantastic mechanic is not so great on the electronics side of things. It's already cost me a couple of grand and I've gotten no where (and am fast running out of money).

 

I've been thinking about Turbofit for a couple of days, but all the knowledgeable guys I know and trust have been less than complementary about their work. I can't see there's any other option though, they offer the "All in one" service for single owners, they have a good customer base and their prices are very reasonable.

 

Arrghh!!! decisions, decisions....

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Cant any of these so called knowledgeable guys sort it for you?:)

 

They've tried hard and offered sound advice on what to do, but to be honest I don't have the enthusiasm to work on the engine anymore. The last time it went to Phoenix, I was willing to pay £000's for it to be fixed once and for all, but essentially nothing got solved (asside from an issue I already knew about).

 

Now I just want to pay someone to fix the damn thing.

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You still running an emanage? If so, I know you probably have tried this, but I'll suggest it anyway... Get access to another one and try it...

 

Failing that...

 

Do a double and triple check on the wiring looms, including end to end checks. Check the sensors are giving you the readings they should be.. Tideous stuff but something may come up... Assume all current info is flawed and make no assumptions.

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You still running an emanage? If so, I know you probably have tried this, but I'll suggest it anyway... Get access to another one and try it...

 

Failing that...

 

Do a double and triple check on the wiring looms, including end to end checks. Check the sensors are giving you the readings they should be.. Tideous stuff but something may come up... Assume all current info is flawed and make no assumptions.

 

1) I haven't tried another EMB

 

2) I have not tired end to end checks on the main loom, but the EMB is seeing EVERYTHING it should be seeing

 

3) Every sensor I can think of has been tested or replaced.

 

I agree though, its a 'back to stock' job and work from there... I just have no time for it anymore. IMO, the key is the injector duration and duty... SOMETHING has to be causing it to do that...

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If possible I'd definitely try another Emanage unit before reverting to stock.

 

What exactly (if anything) were you doing on the car before this first cropped up? Were you doing anything near any footwell wiring, dash panels on/off or anything like that.

 

I notice that two times out of three a plug change seemed to help - this cannot be the issue though (especially given the pulsewidths you mentioned). Do you know if the idle pulsewidth definitely dropped back to normal after the 2 out of 3 successful plug changes?

 

How do these current afr's and pulsewidths compare to your normal cold start/ cold idling?

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When did it start doing this?

 

Since mapping etc

Have you checked and reloaded the map?

 

This sudden refusing to idle/massive overfuel has happened 3 imes so far:

 

1st time: Right after I installed the injectors. It started working okay again after I changed the plugs.

 

2nd time: 6 weeks later I drive to a petrol station and filled up with fuel. As soon as i started the car again it did the same. Plugs were changed but it didn;t help. Car went to Phoenix on a low loader, after 2 weeks, they emptied the fuel tank, replaced the plugs (again) and changed the crank position sensor and it worked okay.

 

3rd time: 2 weeks later. The car was running okayish. Parked it up for the night, came out to start it the next morning and it was as before.

 

The map has been reloaded and checked (changes to the map make little/no difference to the idle (though I can see the adjustements being made in the data log, the duration and duty remains massively mnore than it should be) . ECU has been reset. a couple of times too.

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It sounds like a sneaky little elec problem in your loom/coil packs/earths or possibly some sort of corruption in the EManage.

 

What's the stock O2 sensor putting out? I know you're in the 10's but is the sensor actually reading rich voltage - just wondering if it's trying to tell the ecu to richen all the time as it's reading lean?

 

What would the stock injector cold idle pulsewidths be, anyone have any ideas?

 

Edit: Does the Emanage blue alter duration basd on battery voltage it's seeing? If so can that be disabled for testing purposes - extra duty could be being added if the emanage isn't seeing 12volts.

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If possible I'd definitely try another Emanage unit before reverting to stock.

 

What exactly (if anything) were you doing on the car before this first cropped up? Were you doing anything near any footwell wiring, dash panels on/off or anything like that.

 

I notice that two times out of three a plug change seemed to help - this cannot be the issue though (especially given the pulsewidths you mentioned). Do you know if the idle pulsewidth definitely dropped back to normal after the 2 out of 3 successful plug changes?

 

How do these current afr's and pulsewidths compare to your normal cold start/ cold idling?

 

Apart from the 1st time it happened, the other times I made no changes to the car. I had not been anywhere near the ECU area nor made any adjustments. It was just a case of parking the car with it working, then coming back and this massive overfuel starting.

 

The injector duration and duty did drop back to normal after each occasion the problem was "solved". This is why I think this is the key to finding the cause.

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