Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I have an intermittent problem, where the engine suddenly will barely idle. For example, yesterday the car was running more or less okay (aside from another cold loop issue), I went to start the car today but it was running like this: (The video may not be ready yet) It basically runs extremely rich ( It has happened twice before. The first time it suddenly worked okay after i changed the plugs. The 2nd time it happened, the plugs change made no difference. The car then went to Phoenix who couldn't find anything wrong with it (aside from a wrong EMB setting). The fuel tank was drained and the plugs changed again and it seemed okay. I've been driving the car around for the last 2 weeks but now suddenly its back to this extremely rich running. Just about every sensor has been checked or replaced. I can only think this might be an injector issue? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 have you checked for vacuum leaks around the fpr as that can cause it to go meggar rich. i had a similar problem to yours last week with my FSE fuel regulator playing up (after telling ian c that i never had issues with fse's:rolleyes: ) removed the vacuum pipe off the regulator and capped it off, and all started to run normal at idle again. but do not drive it with the pipe disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Nightmare you been having mate, Have you tried it with the stock injectors and ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 have you checked for vacuum leaks around the fpr as that can cause it to go meggar rich. i had a similar problem to yours last week with my FSE fuel regulator playing up (after telling ian c that i never had issues with fse's:rolleyes: ) removed the vacuum pipe off the regulator and capped it off, and all started to run normal at idle again. but do not drive it with the pipe disconnected. Thanks for the reply Abs. I have just redone all the vacuum lines and they are definitely okay with no leaks (checked several times today). I'll try your test tomorrow though as I've not done that before. Edit - sorry, do you mean cap the pressure feed for the fpr or leave that to open air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 Nightmare you been having mate, Have you tried it with the stock injectors and ecu? I think thats the only option left (Ian C said the same). Only problem is Phoenix have my original injectors, though Mark is posting them out first thing tomorrow (hopefully). I'll be sticking them back in on Mon/Tues hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 *the video now works*! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 i sorta had a idle like that when my water temp sensor was foobared, you checked that + connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 i sorta had a idle like that when my water temp sensor was foobared, you checked that + connection? Good point, Phoenix mentioned that too. I haven't swapped it but will do so tomorrow with one I know is working. Anyhow, if it was the sensor only, I think it would mean the car would switch to the cold start cell, but this seems to be irrelvant as it still runs incredibly rich regardless of what AR I enter in that cell. I haven't checked the feed from the temp sensor, so you know what values I should see from it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 no idea, i just know mine was running like a bag of shit after i did the stem seals. wouldnt start, when it did it sounded like that, tonnes of black smoke etc plugs soaked in fuel And it was all down to that little sensor. Careful with them, they snap easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 Careful with them, they snap easy Tell me about it, already ruined one water elbow after the small sensor snapped. Just to be sure, the water temp sensor for the ECU is the larger one of the two right? The smaller one being the feed for the gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 thats correct i snapped mine off, and tried to start it after as i didnt think that sensor would cause so much problem. So i managed to get hold of another water neck on ebay with the sensors in, started first time i couldnt believe it. It is the bigger of the 2 the small one is for the gauge yes, the clip also suffers the same destructive features of the coil pack clips, so watch that too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 These are the readings from CJ's Manual: at 0 degress c should be 4-7k at 20 degrees c should be 2-3k at 40 degrees c should be 0.9-1.3k at 60 degrees c should be 0.4-0.7k at 80 degrees c should be 0.2-0.4k Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 These are the readings from CJ's Manual: at 0 degress c should be 4-7k at 20 degrees c should be 2-3k at 40 degrees c should be 0.9-1.3k at 60 degrees c should be 0.4-0.7k at 80 degrees c should be 0.2-0.4k Hope this helps Many thanks. Do you know what the "k" represents? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 1000 ohms but normally just says 1k on the multimeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 1000 ohms but normally just says 1k on the multimeter Yes, of course it is, doh! Thanks mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 with a faulty temp sensor normally it a pig to start and the idle will go quite high. but if you do decide to change it make sure you buy a main dealer one. as i have found that the aftermarket one from a motor factor will give slightly different readings which just adds to more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 with a faulty temp sensor normally it a pig to start and the idle will go quite high. but if you do decide to change it make sure you buy a main dealer one. as i have found that the aftermarket one from a motor factor will give slightly different readings which just adds to more problems. The spare one I have is the original from my car. The one in it now doesn't look great as it came from a wrecker (coated in calcium, looks like it never saw proper coolant). It doesn't idle high though, it's the same as always at 650rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I just watched that twice to listen to the turbo, sounded great. Sorry not much help I know, all that came into my mind was a sticking injector making it rich but just guessing really. Hope you find the prob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Does anybody know the part no for the sensor in question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letmeshowyou Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 The one in it now doesn't look great as it came from a wrecker I didn't realise you'd changed it (during the build?). Fingers crossed thats gonna be the problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Does anybody know the part no for the sensor in question? The number written on mine is 89422-35010 Just check at the dealer before you buy . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Whoops - didn't think to look on the actual sensor! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Thanks guys Okay, both temp sensor wires only had 1 strand of wire attaching them to the harness, one split after I removed the plug (see pic). I guess (hope!) this is the cause... How the hell to I get the plug apart to reattached the wires. There is no obvious way to remove it EDIT - Nevermind, the entire thing just disitrgrated in my hands!! Toyota is closed till Monday... bugger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I'm wondering if the centre comes out like the coil pack connectors as the wires are just a push fit through the back and locked in by the white centre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 You could always just cut the plug off and use a couple of crimped bullet connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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