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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Cambelt and non-interference


Golddigga

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For the TT engine.

 

You need to have a valve being pushed 10mm's at TDC for a stock engine to become interference.

AFAIK the only cams on the market to do this are the JUN 272 10.8mm lift cams.

Obviously if you change the head for a skimmed one you reduce the point at which intereference can happen...

 

At which point any serious engine builder should be checking valve to piston clearance on the cylinder with the piston that has the most stand proud, and calculating the clearance at max designed rpm taking into account rod stretch and valve float...... then determining the timing limits for various gasket thicknesses.

 

Or is that too techy??? ;) :D

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As extracted from the Maintenance and Service information from Toyota....

Which was what I linked to in the first place.

 

I dunno, you lot could start and argument in a ......[insert somewhere where it's hard to start an argument]

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Oh really? Well, I'm off home now (thank god!) so I won't get mixed up in this argument.

 

My work here is done :)

 

As an off-side, I've done a hard days work today. Must of posted a good 40 replies on the forum, browsed various pics and have enjoyed 2 delightful lattes and a pint of Guinness. Happy days.

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No, its cleared up now thanks to the penecillin ;)

 

Not any more as an increase in antibiotic resistance has led to a decline in its use since the 1970s.

 

Incidentally the word clap is from the old French word "clapier", meaning "brothel".

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Hi Goldigga

 

If your worried about the immediate state of the belt you can do some easy visual/physical checks:

 

check for wear on the teeth, edge of the belt and any cracking at the root of the teeth,

 

check there's no deterioration of the belt from oil etc which can cause swelling and deterioration of the rubber, and no debris (you will get some build up of muck anyway)

 

Look for crazing on the surface of the belt - caused by friction, also for splits or tears.

 

Belts are usually quiet under normal running conditions - if its whining its tightened up too much, if theres slapping it indicates it could be loose. to check the tension is easy - take the belt between thumb and finger and you should just be able to twist it 45 degrees, no more or less.

 

If the belt is damaged or loose the timing will be out which could result in the pistons and valves making contact which is not good :( and would mean expensive replacements. It wouldn't hurt to get the belt checked out by a professional if your not sure, then take it from there.

 

Hope all is good,

 

L

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I wasn't sure on my 1998 n/a about if the cam belt had been done or not even though when i bought the car it only had 34k on the clock, I had it changed for piece of mind earlier this month, saves it going and me being stranded, only cost about £120ish to get done so not worth not doing! :)

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