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My turbo's been stripped. Need advice.


Jake

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Adam, the guy from Turbo Dynamics rang me this morning about my PHR Stage One GT60 turbo. He said it's in a bad way. Apparently the bearing on the compressor side is knackered, which he said is unusual as it's usually the bearing on the turbine side that fails. He said it needs a new shaft as well.

Five hundred and something quid to fix it he said.

 

He also said that it was a bit undersized for a 3 litre engine and asked if it ran out of power at higher revs, which to be fair it does.

He reckons it's a 0.71 A/R but I don't know anything about that because PHR won't divulge any specs for their turbos.

Anyway, Adam said if it was his he would replace the hotside (I forget the correct term) with a larger size and convert the centre housing to water cooled.

About £850 I think he said.

 

The other option he said was to replace it with a T04Z dbb for about £1600 - which is out of the question I'm afraid.

 

 

Any thoughts? What would you do?

 

What other turbo would be a straight swap? I don't want to get involved changing downpipes etc if I can help it.

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Hmmmm, the only problem with going to a water cooled turbo, is that your car is now set-up not to have water cooled turbo's, so you would have to factor the cost of getting all the plumbing done.

Given the choice of £500odd for a repaired undersized turbo, or what realisticly is going to be looking at close to a grand, for a proper sized one, I'd go for the proper sized job.

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Garrett GT3582R (0.82 AR) would be a straight swap and give you a bit more top end. It uses double ball bearing so should spool up quicker too.

 

I got mine from this company HERE, you'll need to make sure you select the T04 option.

 

Here are pics of mine

 

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8893/cimg0004sj0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3871/cimg0007uv1.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9102/cimg0011to0.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6208/cimg0013vv0.jpg

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Seeing as you did 130mph terminal at totb with your current setup
Well yeah that's true but it does run out of steam shortly after that.

 

id stick with that, certainly seems fast and no more mapping or fitment issues to worry about:)
Good point, that would be the sensible thing to do.

 

Who are you and what have you done with our Jamie?

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Why not consider uprating to a larger PHR tubby.

If the stage 1 is 'running out of power' then go for a stage 2+ or 3 at approx $1400 .. theres not major refitting involved as they should be a straight replacement and remap to suit. ?

The stage 1 is obviously not what you want as its not intended for high output, its intended for quick spooling and response midrange.

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Because this one has failed for no apparent reason and also because PHR will not release any specs or compressor maps for their turbos.

 

ok, so why are you not dealing with PHR?

Have they refused to help?

( No dissing intended, just that there must be a reason for not dealing with the manufacturer?)

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Sorry for the off topic but what are you changing to Jon?

 

Im not unles i sell mine ;) I dont think my T61 will reach my 500 RWHP figure so may change to the GT 4088. Its either that or explore the poss of nos.

 

I do apologies for jamies off topic ;)

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My (barely educated) opinion:

 

Don't bother with water cooling unless its required. There is a more complexity (things to go wrong) and getting the water return working properly can be a real pain due to the fabrication required.

 

If you're after a little more power then how about the GT4088, it has a larger hotside than the PHR61 and a slightly larger compressor, I think it means a slightly later spool that the PHR61, but comes on with more punch and has little more top end. Its very cheap too. Of course, it would need a remap too so kind of bumps the price.

 

Have you thought about the precision T67 (BL, etc)? Ever been for a drive in one? I got a the BL dbb version for much less than you've been quoted for repairing your current tubbie, so may also be an option.

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I would go for a 4088 but Jamie said it's not a straight swap.

If I could identify a non-PHR turbo that's physically a straight swap and anythng from t61 to t67 I'd probably settle for that.

 

 

How much was your BL67dbb then Darryl?

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Remapping to a slightly bigger turbo is a lot easier than mapping from the ground up. You'll just need to add more fuel across the boost range depending on how much more efficiently it moves the air around. It'll be a cost, yes, but shouldn't be as much as a ground up map.

 

Maybe get a quote for that from whoever mapped it (can't recall), see how that and the cost of a new different turbo stacks up against the rebuild. You may be willing to pay another £400 for more wellie, or it may turn out to be £1000 more and you don't want to spend that much. Or you are so sick of not having the car running you don't want to chance it and just get the same tubbie back on.

 

I of course recommend the BL series turbos, but then that's the only ones I've got experience in. The cost is very agreeable as well.

 

-Ian

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I'm seriously tempted to get a BL67DBB at the moment.

 

I had one before they were trendy :tongue:

 

Seriously, I STILL don't need any more power after all this time. The T67DBB rocks for street usage. With VVTi as well - wow :cool:

 

-Ian

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Does your current manifold have a clocked turbo position?

 

The PHR 61 and BL T67's have the same size exhaust band clamp so I suspect the position is very similar. I can't see the angle of the exhuast flange changing so there's only a little forward/back movement that could accur (if you know what I mean).

 

The DP/Mp should allow a little play in the exhaust to allow some movement, lets face it, it won't be move than a cm. It'll also help if you have a flex joined welded into the dp.

 

As mentioned, the water feed is a bit of a pain if you're doing it properly so make sure to budget for that (Mine has over £120 and still climbing... just to get it working right)

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