lockys96 Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 just say watch out what you get recomended. i had 10-50w silkoene pro s in my car less than 4,000 miles ago. i knew i had to change my oil soon, but checked the oil, and it looks a bit black and cloggy. so out with that and in with 5-40w silkoene pro s. hate to think what its been doing to my engine. people said on here it will be fine, to find out its suitable to a heavy modded car. bollox, i wont name names Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Its going to be a bit dark after 4k of abuse, i normally change mine @ around 2k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockys96 Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 well, it going to be left to drain for 48hrs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 This one time, I drained my oil, filled up, and drained again later the same day. It came out black again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 The oil will always come out dirty pretty much even if it was fresh and just run through the engine. Remember the idea of the oil is to suspend all the dirt particles inside it's molecules... added to that is the fact that oil is designed to stick to all the metal parts to provide lubrication. Some of the dirt will stay behind in a flush... I personally wouldn't get too intense with a flush either, since some of the carbon will have filled the wear marks on the various components within the block. I speak from experience with this on a test engine. I had an old a-series which I got for £30 from ebay which ran okay but was just coked up...I ran an intense oil flush through it, which cleaned up ALL the metal bits and left them nice and shiney, however at the same time it removed all the carbon from the shells which had settled in over the last 30 years. The end result was one VERY rattley engine which I've ended up taking out of the car anyway. The new engine I'm currently building is getting all new shells and rings matched to the correct tolerances. My advice, speak to the guys at OpieOils... they know their products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 My advice, speak to the guys at OpieOils... they know their products. I would, but from what I've read, they'd only recommend the >£50/4litre products for even a BPU Supra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 5w oil is too thin at the bottom end, surely...Toyota only reckomend 5w oils for very cold environments. Any branded 10w-40 should be fine until you mod it loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodilx6 Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Toyota here in DK, as well as my supra techie recomend 0w-30. The one Toyota uses for their new cars. Is that completly idiotic to use? Does anyone have expirences with this type of fully synthetic? I'm at BPU, don't change my oil too often, which is why I dont mind paying the 20£ this oil goes pr litre.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Thing is, it's not a new car. It was designed to use 10w-30, 15 years ago (or however long)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oly Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 I've ordered 5W - 40 for my N/A - will this be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 hate to think what its been doing to my engine. You can find out as I do this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=69301 Let me know if you want to know exactly what has been going on, oil condition, wear in engine, if it is suitable etc And for a race engine 10W/50 would be recommended for the long term durability of the hot 50 weight under extreme heat conditions. For a road engine it wouldn't do any harm AFAIK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockys96 Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 i had a look at that, but made no sense to me, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rik Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 . I personally wouldn't get too intense with a flush either, since some of the carbon will have filled the wear marks on the various components within the block. Are you saying engine flush is a wast of time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oly Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 So wil 5W - 50 be ok for an N/A? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 i had a look at that, but made no sense to me, lol Ok, its all engineering speak and gobblediegook, but put simply if you look at the oil and whats in it you can see how the engine and the oil are wearing (oil wears out). From the condition of the oil and quantity of metals and crap in it, you can find out if all is well with the engine (or not) and if the oil is protecting the engine properly. All you need to do is stick about 50ml of the old oil in the pot supplied and send it off to the lab. I get the results and interpret them, then give an in depth analysis of what's going on. Can detect all kinds of problems in the engine before they even show up as faults. Note to mods - This is not an advert, just offering to help a member out and if he wants to take me up on this offer I do it at a loss for club members! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 So wil 5W - 50 be ok for an N/A? It'll be adequate. Too thin at the bottom, too thick at the top, but it'll run. Best application for that level of oil is on track, on boost. Unlikely you'd get any benefit in an NA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 I got a shock when i started looking at the API rating of the oil i was using, Shell Helix F 5W 30 semi synth, API A1 B1 which is the correct weight recommended by Toyota, and i'm not even sure if there was semi synth then? I when back to 5W 30 due to blowing my FMS after changing oil to 10W 40, but i am now pretty sure that it was just coincidence, so i am just about to change back to Shell Helix Plus 10W 40 semi synth which is API A3 B3, so if the seal goes again I'll let you know;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 My friend has 15W 50 in his stock Supra, I thought it was 10w50/10w 40/30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris and Alana Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 If toyota say use 10w30 part synthetic would it not make sense to stick to that but in a fully synthetic, that way you have the benefit of better protection with the fully synthetic but are using the correct weight oil for the engine, or am I way off here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 If toyota say use 10w30 part synthetic would it not make sense to stick to that but in a fully synthetic, that way you have the benefit of better protection with the fully synthetic but are using the correct weight oil for the engine, or am I way off here. You are right, as it would perhaps be advantageous to go for a DECENT fully synthetic. And as the engine ages move up to a 10W/40 to maintain oil pressures (as clearances get bigger through wear a slightly thicker oil will compensate for this). Also going to much higher power outputs will increase loadings on big end and main bearings, so a higher weight oil will help maintain the oil's lubricating properties under the much higher stresses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovervi Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Think i had millers 10/40 had no problems at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 5w oil is too thin at the bottom end, surely...Toyota only reckomend 5w oils for very cold environments. Any branded 10w-40 should be fine until you mod it loads. The thinner oils were only required to meet US fuel efficiency regs in the 90's and nothing to do with cold cranking. My oil comes out like the day it went in after 4,000 miles between its annual servicing. I have used the Fuchs Titan Pro S 5w 30 for the last three years without any problems. If you have synthetic oil coming out black you are either running a diesel or have some blow by contamination or its acting as a detergent and cleaining up crud left behind from former oil charges. You'd struggle to cook a synthetic ester oil, the base oil class is after all used in gas turnine engines where bearing temperatures run far hotter than anything in your typical car engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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