michael Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 The archives have some info on this lovely little task but the general summary is "£1000" and "Head Off" or "Heath Robinson". I was just wondering if anyone could give me a rough indication of the cost of the parts needed to perform the work and a guide as to how many hours it should take a decent mechanic to do the job. Looks fun! A quick web search brought these up - I'm not saying I'd buy them over proper Toyota parts but how do they compare on price? I'd expected the OEM ones to be about £3.00 each (or £72 for the 24). Any input would be appreciated - I suspect I'll probably put up with the slight puff of smoke though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 cant help much on this but I have similar problems and Im just running a slightly thicker oil and putting up with the smoking. I expect to have to get it done some time next year along with the turbos (which are at 125,000 miles and going strong for now) so I will be intersted to see where this thread ends up. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 The problem with replacing stem seals is that you need to remove the cams and springs to change them, and to remove the springs you need to hold the valve shut to compress them to remove the collets (sp) on the top. I've always changed stem seals while the head is off, but I've heard you can pressurise the cylinder (air) to keep the valve shut to save removing the head. I've also heard that you can stuff a load of string? through the spark plug hole to fill the cylinder up and stop the valves dropping in, but I wouldn't like to try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinbad Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 I think I need this done also as mine smokes a little when cold. Labour hours required would be good to get an estimate for the credit card outlay Someone must have done it by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Same problem here. My car has always done it, ever since I got the car 16 months ago. No big deal, it makes a bit of smoke for a couple of seconds if the car hasn't been started for 8 hours or more. No way I'm spending £1000+ on fixing such a small problem. As Barry said, you can use Nylon rope or a rubber airline to stop the valves dropping into the cylinder, but I wouldn't fancy attempting it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRoy Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by Branners cant help much on this but I have similar problems and Im just running a slightly thicker oil and putting up with the smoking. I expect to have to get it done some time next year along with the turbos (which are at 125,000 miles and going strong for now) so I will be intersted to see where this thread ends up. JB Ditto! I think Dude can do them with the head still in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted July 14, 2004 Author Share Posted July 14, 2004 The main reason I'm interested in labour hours is to get an idea of how much it will cost *me* - it may well cost £1000 to get someone to fix it at £40, £20, £80 per hour but without knowing hourly costs and time taken it's hard to say how much my £2.45 an hour mechanic will charge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Well, how long does it take to remove the cylinder head? I've not done it on a Supra before! But I'm assuming that it means turbo's off, manifolds off, remove head etc... (along with all the water pipes etc that are connected)... Not the hardest job in the world but its time consuming. First head gasket I ever changed was on a Ren 5 turbo (supprise supprise!) and that took all weekend, using the trusty Haynes manual for guidance. Now I can do the job with my eyes closed, I've done loads of rebuilds I've lost count (and thats just my hobby!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attilauk Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 using the trusty Haynes manual for guidance. Aaaah the good old Haynes Book of lies:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by attilauk Aaaah the good old Haynes Book of lies:D You got it! And pictures you cant even make out what they are of! I'm sure they photographed a Ford Anglia in my Ren 5 book!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by attilauk Aaaah the good old Haynes Book of lies:D http://ncrscca.com/Funny_manuals.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attilauk Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by Jake http://ncrscca.com/Funny_manuals.htm LMAO:D and its all so true:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Thats funny Jake, and soooo true!!! Being the kind chap I am, I make sure every last nut and bolt gets a nice smearing of copper grease just so it comes off easier next time, so the next owner doesn't cut their hands to shreads like I have done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dunk Shaw Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Ive got same problem uk tt 104,000 miles small amount of smoke on start up, the only prob i have with the car so unless it gets suddenly much worse i will do the job when the turbo's need looking at. The compressed air route is probly the best as saves the need for takin the head off, but still take a while, fingers crossed you dont get a power cut and lose the compressor Dunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Mine does this too if it's not been started for a few days. Noticeable puff of smoke at initial startup, goes after about 1 second (almost like it's just clearing the exhaust out). I think I'll wait for something major to go (eg, turbos) before fixing it though. Cosmetic stuff first, important mechanical bits second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 In my experience when they need valve stem seals they also need valve guides and probably a set of exhaust valves. Renewing guides means a need to recut the valve seats, and this in turn means re shimming all the valve clearances. Not a job for the feint hearted... Holding the valves up with compressed air down the plug `oles, with the head still in situ means you are unable to assess valve guide and stem wear, a serious disadvantage. It's also very easy to mark valve stems and bucket bores doing a stem seal change on deeply recessed 4 valve per cylinder heads. FAR FAR better to pull the head and do it properly. Good thing is with PROPER (*) valve cutting machines a 3 or 4 angle seat can be cut in one operation, with no need for lapping afterwards. (*) Proper = about £40K worth of air bed machine with proper tooling.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attilauk Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 roughly how long would all that take then chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dunk Shaw Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Sorry meant to say in previous post cheapest route not the best. Chris's head off and check valves, guides, seats etc is def the best way, very interested also to know how much you'd charge for the complete rebuild, obviously + parts as that would be an unknown figure until it was off and checked over. So just a labour figure would good. Regards Dunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Very rough estimate, just labour, with seats cut, about 1000 quid. Guides, valves, seals whatever extra. Very labour intensive to do it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Chris, I think that question was a 'how long will it take' rather than a 'how much will it cost'. How long does it take to remove the Supra's cylinder head (engine in car)... JUST remove, nothing else? Obviously approx, assuming all nuts and bolts are not seized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 About 4 hours I'd say. Dunno what the service manual estimates, but that's a real world average time assuming no gotchas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisherjohn Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Had mine off last year, Recut 3 exhaust valves, all inlet valves like new. Took 4 hrs to re shim 7 of the valves back to correct clearances with 2 of us doing the work. I would approximate about 8 hrs for head removal, shimming fitting back all valves with buckets springs etc after removal and replacement of any parts requiring changing. In fact we had no Toyota shims and used new motorbike shims which were the correct thickness but slightly larger diameter, which we ground down on a grinder to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprash Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 I know mechanics references say 23 hours, for full job....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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