mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 When I bought my car it had alreday been converted from an automatic. On reading a thread it was mentioned that although the car would run happily on the auto ecu it causes short shifting??? My car still has the auto ecu and I was wondering if it was really worth changing it to a manual one?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 The auto ECU retards the ignition slightly at the points where it should change gear. Basically robbing you of a little power every now and then. I wouldn't bother changing it to a OEM manual ECU unless you can get one VERY cheap. Otherwise if you're going to change it, change it to something like an e-manage ultimate, so that it can be tweaked and gain you more power, plus give you a little future proofing if you ever modify the car more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I think it would be much better for you to go back to auto, I will swop you with my auto box for your 6 speed then you dont need to touch the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Nice try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Cheers TLicence, I think i'll get a OEM ECU to begin with, as I assume the ones you make reference to are quite expensive. I have seen a couple of manual ones go for about £40 on here before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 I take that back as I have just seen one going for £150...Ouch!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 You can get an EM blue for less than that probably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Cheers Gamer, I'll have a look at these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supradibbs Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 You can get an EM blue for less than that probably yeah but its all the shit that goes with it that bumps the price up mate pressure sensor pressure harness feilds harness thats a couple hundred quid right there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 All in good fun, no point in delaying the inevitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Ok, gents, so i accept the inevitable and buy a new ECU. I'm not looking to power a shuttle to the moon here just run the car at BPU or BPU+ lets say. What a reasonable ECU then, how much am I looking at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Ive thought about this recently seeing as i use the Auto ECU with a MAP ECU on my 6 speed converted car. When i was auto and i had my car mapped at thor i never saw any major dip in power at the shift point (say 6500-7000rpm) So is this really what happens as i cant see where the power drops on the printout. apart from when pete let off the throttle The auto ECU retards the ignition slightly at the points where it should change gear. Basically robbing you of a little power every now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I'd say get a standard manual Toyota ecu. You'll never get anything even remotely as cheap to run th engine in "BPU" form as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 Sounds like a winner to me Chris. Had a look at after market ECU's and they don't come cheap. Especially when you think that they need to be professionally installed and then require additional harnesses and sensors etc...... I like the idea of £100 plug and play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 There was one on ebay for £20 last week that didnt sell i think the guy wanted £40 to post or something (probably to circumvent fees etc so it will probably be relisted soon! also are you saying the auto ECU will not run the engine in BPU form well? and if you work out the shift point then you can complete full throttle gear changes with a little practice with out using the clutch (or maybe very slightly), as indeed this is a system which many people pay loads for on race cars which does exactly the same thing - retard the ignition when you change gear (this is how sequential and tiptronic gearboxes achive a low shift time) although those systems have a micro switch on the gear lever but like i said a little practice maybe knock a second off a quarter mile time or a couple off a lap . . .. . .. .. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 if you work out the shift point then you can complete full throttle gear changes with a little practice with out using the clutch (or maybe very slightly) LOL! Tried it, have you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 As a guider i sold my stock ECU for £100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Is this known as "Double Clutching" Explain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 LOL! Tried it, have you? not the full throtle thing as you need ignition retartd to make the change or it wont come out of gear but practice on a shitter you can definatly change up gear by just a slight lift off from the accelerator (kind of like a IG retard)and change down with a slight lift off to release the gear and then matching the rev with the accelerator and poping it in gear again all with out useing the clutch - i dont recomend trying it for the first time in your supra tho LOL double clutching is when you are changing down gear to prevent shift lock ( rear wheels breaking traction because wheel speed is different to gear speed) when braking or entering a corner 1 press clutch and move gear lever to neutral 2 relese clutch - this allows the layshaft to spin up to current engine speed 3 press clutch and move gear lever to the desired gear 4 match the rpm using the throttle to where it should be at when you are in the lower gear 5 release the clutch - you should now be in the lower gear with the revs up but there should have been no lurch or weight shift in the car posture lots of practice step by step but very rewarding when you pull it off - also you have to combine this with heel and toe if braking! when you manage it though its awsome alowing you to brake really late into corners (right into the apex even useing the brakes for a bit of rotation) and then powering out in the right gear because you have seamlessly changed down gear in the process . . . .. . . . .. .. . .. . or you could just by the tiptronic box it does this all for you! bu practice is free keep you busy when stuck in slow moving traffic on the comute . . . . .. or maybe just listen to the radio! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 not the full throtle thing as you need ignition retartd to make the change or it wont come out of gear but practice on a shitter you can definatly change up gear by just a slight lift off from the accelerator (kind of like a IG retard)and change down with a slight lift off to release the gear and then matching the rev with the accelerator and poping it in gear again all with out useing the clutch - i dont recomend trying it for the first time in your supra tho LOL That's "crash gearchanging" not "flat shifting". It's very simple and it needs no ignition retard. I had to use it from 4th and 6th after stripping 5th gear's synchro ring drag racing, until I got I fixed. Although I still actually used the clutch because I could. double clutching is when you are changing down gear to prevent shift lock ( rear wheels breaking traction because wheel speed is different to gear speed) when braking or entering a corner 1 press clutch and move gear lever to neutral 2 relese clutch - this allows the layshaft to spin up to current engine speed 3 press clutch and move gear lever to the desired gear 4 match the rpm using the throttle to where it should be at when you are in the lower gear 5 release the clutch - you should now be in the lower gear with the revs up but there should have been no lurch or weight shift in the car posture lots of practice step by step but very rewarding when you pull it off - also you have to combine this with heel and toe if braking! when you manage it though its awsome alowing you to brake really late into corners (right into the apex even useing the brakes for a bit of rotation) and then powering out in the right gear because you have seamlessly changed down gear in the process . . . .. . . . .. .. . .. . or you could just by the tiptronic box it does this all for you! bu practice is free keep you busy when stuck in slow moving traffic on the comute . . . . .. or maybe just listen to the radio! You can do heel-toeing without the rest of the clutch drama because the gearbox wasn't built in 1930 and therefore has synchro cones It can be simplifed thus: Brakes on, clutch in, roll right foot over onto throttle to bring the revs up, clutch up. Although it's called heel-toe, I use left-side/right-side, as my feet are too big for heel-toe so I brake with the ball of my foot and prod the accelerator with the little toe area. The trick is a) learning what rpms you need for whatever gear you are going from and to and what the starting revs where, and b) not cocking it up and crashing due to lack of concentration or accidently staying on the accelerator when the clutch is up Once you can do it you find you do it all the time as it's sooo much smoother to drive. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.