Paul Laing Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 This weekend i'm going to be fitting my HKS FMIC, has anyone got any tips on how to take off the front bumper? Some people say 3 hours (bodyshop) and some say a hour or so. How long has it took you guys in the past. How many bolts is there and where abouts are they all? Any good guides? Also do you have to do anything else, i'm wanting to keep my active spoiler down permanently instead of taking it off. Do i have to disconnect anything to stop the light from flashing or anything else i might miss? Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 There are loads of step by step FMIC guides on the 'net, a couple for starters: HKS FMIC Manual Greddy FMIC install pics Greddy Install Manual HKS GT Install Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 If i remember correctly - it took me about an hour to remove the bumper and 4.5 hrs in total start to finish. Take a look here for pics. there are 4 bolts which hold the bumper on, 2 can be seen when you remove the lights. - the others can be reached from the front - but its easier to remove the wheel arch liners The black strip (with 5 plastic screws) needs to be removed, as do the black strips (again with black plastic screws), remove the engine undertray, and the one that attaches to the bumper (I think 5 bolts) There are alot of screws - I have bags and bags of left over screws! You'll need a container to catch the PAS fluid when you change the PAS cooler - as a result you'll need some more PAS fluid. You'll also need to bleed the PAS system from the pics you'll see I also removed the active spoiler as the FMIC pipes come through where the auto spoiler motor attaches to the car. (5th pic down on right hand side of page) ALSO - If you re-attach the front section of the engine cover (the part which bolts t0 the bumper - you'll need to cut a section out (as per HKS installation instruction) - this was a pain in the ass to do - When I changed my bumper - I binned this part. Hope this is of some help - Any questions gimme a PM But I'm sure there are more "knowledgable" people on than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Originally posted by mcanny There are loads of step by step FMIC guides on the 'net, a couple for starters: HKS FMIC Manual Greddy FMIC install pics Greddy Install Manual HKS GT Install Pics The HKS manual is pants... but if you can follow pictures, your OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Has anyone got any info on the HKS GT intercooler as most companies only sell the Type S and Type R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 24, 2004 Author Share Posted June 24, 2004 Cheers Mcanny, Heckler Heckler - How do you bleed the PS system? Mine makes some strange noises at start up and i have recently changed my ps tank to a chromed one so really it should need bleeding now. So will do this when i change the intercooler. Any help on how to do this would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Originally posted by Paul Laing Cheers Mcanny, Heckler Heckler - How do you bleed the PS system? Mine makes some strange noises at start up and i have recently changed my ps tank to a chromed one so really it should need bleeding now. So will do this when i change the intercooler. Any help on how to do this would be great Start the car with the cap off the power steering reservoir and turn the steering slowly from lock to lock a few times until it stops making a horrible noise. Then top up the fluid level to the correct level. You might have to do it a few times to get all the air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 24, 2004 Author Share Posted June 24, 2004 When i last did that the fluid shot all over the place!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Originally posted by Paul Laing When i last did that the fluid shot all over the place!!!! Hee hee, probably best not to put so much in next time then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 24, 2004 Author Share Posted June 24, 2004 I havn't got that much in, is that why it sprays out because theres too much in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Don't know, it didn't spray out when I did it, although it did bubble a lot. I don't think there's a lot you can do about it apart from put some rags around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRoy Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Paul just turn the steering wheel slower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Originally posted by Paul Laing Cheers Mcanny, Heckler Heckler - How do you bleed the PS system? Mine makes some strange noises at start up and i have recently changed my ps tank to a chromed one so really it should need bleeding now. So will do this when i change the intercooler. Any help on how to do this would be great the way I did was... 1) jack the front end up, 2) turn the whell lock to lock several times... 3) Check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd 4) Start engine turn the whell lock to lock several times... 5) check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd 6) Engine Off - turn the whell lock to lock several times... 7) check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd repeat 2 - 6 until theres no bubbles in the PAS Tank, job done. this method no fluid gets spilt. When I fitted my FMIC - I ended up putting over 1/2 ltr PAS fluid back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 exactly the same for me aswell Originally posted by heckler the way I did was... 1) jack the front end up, 2) turn the whell lock to lock several times... 3) Check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd 4) Start engine turn the whell lock to lock several times... 5) check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd 6) Engine Off - turn the whell lock to lock several times... 7) check the PAS fluid level - top up if req'd repeat 2 - 6 until theres no bubbles in the PAS Tank, job done. this method no fluid gets spilt. When I fitted my FMIC - I ended up putting over 1/2 ltr PAS fluid back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 25, 2004 Author Share Posted June 25, 2004 Anyone know about the active spoiler? Do you have to do anything to stop the light from coming on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 yeah short the plug that normally plugs in the spoiler motor and the same on the switch behind the dash theres instructions on mkiv.com i think cant remember where i got them from now and then just bolt the spoiler up if you are wanting to leave it permantly down all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 25, 2004 Author Share Posted June 25, 2004 Cheers Chris, gonna fit it this sunday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeT Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Originally posted by ChrisB yeah short the plug that normally plugs in the spoiler motor and the same on the switch behind the dash theres instructions on mkiv.com i think cant remember where i got them from now and then just bolt the spoiler up if you are wanting to leave it permantly down all good just unplug the active spoiler ecu behind the stereo head unit:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 big red triangle stayed on when i tried doing that so had to short it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 page ten of this http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/intake_ic_jza80kit.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Laing Posted June 25, 2004 Author Share Posted June 25, 2004 Does the active spoiler motor need to come off Chris? Then just bolt the spoiler in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 yeah the motor needs to come off and put in the large large box marked weight saving crap along with hundreds of bolts you dont know what they did or where they go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Whats the best way to keep the spoiler down (without annoying lights) regardless of FMIC's? Gaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 always drive above 60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syed Shah Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Once an FMIC is fitted, the only way to have the spoiler down is having it fixed down with brackets. A bit of a PITA, shame nobody has made up a smaller motor (as this is what gets in the way) to allow keeping it. It certainly plays its part past 140. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.