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Whats causing the lost of power at 5,000 RPM?


osso

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I am beginning to notice that there is a loss of power at around 5,000 rpm..

 

I remember when i went to Thor back in March 2004, there was a dip in the boost curve at 5,000rpm as well but due to the problems i was having back then i never really noticed it as much.

 

Does anyone have a clue what the problem could be?

 

I have since upgraded the Fuel pump to a Walbro pump and now have an FSE regulator and i've also upgraded the spark plugs.

 

 

I've attached the plot of the power curve here...

dyno_power.jpg

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are you running stock turbos?, looks like an issue with no 2, maybe the butterfly valve isnt opening properly allowing it to spool up properly. I had the opposite issue where it was bent open and no 2 overboosted and blew itself up lol.

 

Then again this might be complete nonsense....acknowlege at your own risk

 

:blink:

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Originally posted by osso

I am beginning to notice that there is a loss of power at around 5,000 rpm..

 

I've attached the plot of the power curve here...

:eek: 253 HP Din !

Mate there's something very wrong there. My Std TT (apart from decat) makes 350.5 on the Thor Dyno.

I believe Millhouse's completely standard TT made 303

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Its probably best to ignore the power output and look at why the dip in the curve is occuring at 5000 rpm.

 

Dude has done some work on the car since, and it does seem to be pulling better than it was when it was dyno'd.

 

:thumbs:

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Originally posted by osso

Its probably best to ignore the power output and look at why the dip in the curve is occuring at 5000 rpm.

 

Dude has done some work on the car since, and it does seem to be pulling better than it was when it was dyno'd.

 

:thumbs:

 

This is easily solved with a single kit ;) , James you need another go in the car with its big Turbo , now it pulls harder than ever :thumbs:

 

Dude:flame Dev

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Originally posted by dude

This is easily solved with a single kit ;) , James you need another go in the car with its big Turbo , now it pulls harder than ever :thumbs:

 

Dude:flame Dev

 

 

:twak: :D I'll take you up on the offer tho! :thumbs:

 

There's too much work needed before my car can go single at the moment obviously, as the car is completely standard a part from some minor things.. I'll need a FMIC, uprated clutch, upgrade jspec brakes, and upgrade fuel rail + injectors, before i can consider even going single.. have i missed anything?

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Originally posted by osso

I'll need a FMIC, uprated clutch, upgrade jspec brakes, and upgrade fuel rail + injectors, before i can consider even going single.. have i missed anything?

 

 

If you go for a small single, you'll only need to upgrade your injectors to UK 550's, and fit an AFC, or E-manage to adjust the fuelling.... ;)

 

It will still give you a substantial power increase, better reliability, more fun, and you can upgrade other bits as a when you get the time/money

 

The brakes would be a good start, but a decent set of pads would be a good/cheap starting point.

:innocent:

 

Not that I'm trying to tempt you or anything! :D

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Not that I'm trying to tempt you or anything! :D

 

:twak:

 

If i was to go single, i'd get something like Dude's setup, but i dont want to spend a another penny on mods until i get my current problems ironed out..

So moving back to the original topic :D :p

 

What could be causing the lost of power at 5,000 RPM? I am running on stock turbo's, and stock exhaust system with 2 catalyst still in there..

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Could it be possible that the pressure line which drives the IACV Actuator and the EGCV Actuator isnt holding enough pressure to keep both actuators open throughout the revs? due to a faulty VSV valve or dodgy pressure tank, or a crack in one of the small vacume pipes in the main pressure line?

 

if the EGCV and IACV actuators were fluctuating could this cause dips in the boost curve?

 

Or could this problem be an issue with the second turbo?

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Back on track from everyone and their brother trying to sell you something... :conf:

 

Do you have your graph for your AFR readings? Curious to see if you have a weak spot in your fuel map thats causing over / under fuelling and making you lose the power.

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you noticed that too? :D I do have the graph for the AFR readings some where, and at the time it was running very rich at a ARF of around 10.5 or 11.. over 4,000 rpm.

 

But this dyno was taken around 3 months ago, I have since got a Walbro pump, FSE and Denso Iridium IK22's installed..

 

so i have no idea if the car is still running rich, if it is still running rich, what else can i do? are coil packs servicable items? do they need placing after so many miles or years? my car is 7 years old now and i bet its got the original coil packs in there..

 

But for now i am assuming that i dont have an issue with the ignition system..

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Originally posted by osso

you noticed that too? :D I do have the graph for the AFR readings some where, and at the time it was running very lean at a ARF of around 10.5 or 11.. over 4,000 rpm.

 

That's not lean, that's rich. Anything under 11.7:1 AFR i.e. 10.5:1, is running over-rich and you will start to lose power. Anything over 12.5AFR and it's starting to run lean and you'll gain power until your engine goes pop. That's why some cars give a huge power hike at 1.3bar of boost. Briefly.

 

But this dyno was taken around 3 months ago, I have since got a Walbro pump, FSE and Denso Iridium IK22's installed..

 

so i have no idea if the car is still running lean, if it is still running lean, what else can i do? are coil packs servicable items? do they need placing after so many miles or years? my car is 7 years old now and i bet its got the original coil packs in there..

 

But for now i am assuming that i dont have an issue with the ignition system..

 

Sparks are nothing to do with running rich or lean. If you are blowing the spark out or they are running too hot to spark, you'll notice as the engine misfires, trust me you can't miss that symptom. You need another AFR check on a rolling road to see if it's running rich or lean. If it's too rich you need an airflow adjustment box like the Apexi AFC or the Greddy E-Manage to trim the fuelling down. If it's running lean you'll need bigger injectors and said airflow adjustment box.

 

-Ian

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sorry i actually meant it was running rich... :innocent:

 

The thing is, you shouldnt have to buy a Apexi AFC or the Greddy E-Manage system to rectify the problem on a virtually stock soop. These problems should be ironned out before adding mods like that.

 

but you're right about getting my car back on the dyno tho, i need to see whats going on.

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Ok, if you say it was running rich and then since the fitted a Walbro and FSE I can only imagine it getting worse. Not to fret though! Running rich wont really hurt anything cept your plugs, but it most certainly will cause you to drop power. (your symptoms)

 

If you have no plans on running a Big Single setup or anything wild, it can be fixed with a couple hundred quid on an S-AFCII and a little Dyno time back at Thor.

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Originally posted by osso

The thing is, you shouldnt have to buy a Apexi AFC or the Greddy E-Manage system to rectify the problem on a virtually stock soop. These problems should be ironned out before adding mods like

 

Thats not entirely accurate though. The whole point of the AFC is to fine tune your existing stock fuel map. If youre trying to squeeze every once of power out, than you need a new map via the AFC or Standalone.

 

You said yourself that you have added a Pump and FSE, so youve already changed your stock fueling. The AFC will just fine tune it for you as its most definitely needed now as well as when you decide to turn up the boost.

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