Guest Garfy Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Holy Crap, Lucky boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Apologies for being too technical - it's what I do for a living. Well, you are torqueing way above my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Lol, when did you manage that??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 i gota say half of mine have snapped im gona replace all, they arent very strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 bloody hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvershark44 Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Ive never seen this happen ever! Good job supras are 5 stud cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewie Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 I'm struggling on the bit I've bold/italic'd above, but are you saying that if they're not torqued-up tight enough, then a bang/kerb mounting like what happened could cause them to fail in the way they did? I doubt it was the kerbing that caused the damage and as JamieP later explained the studs were already fractured with rust across the fracture zone. This shows the problem has been lurking for while. A disaster waiting to happen. The bump was the last straw. Torque setting is MEGA important and not just for wheel nuts. I would say these were overtightened past their elastic limit into plastic range then past the yield point. Repeat everytime you change your wheels. Cracks then developed across the studs. The stud tensile loading then drops off considerably. Relative movement occurs between hub and wheel. JamieP swears blind it's nothing to do with torque setting but the studs do not transmit the wheel torque. That would mean 5 studs would be subjected to a combined shear and tensile loading. A splined shaft does this better. The studs hold the wheel to the hub with sufficient frictional load that there's no relative movement. It is the contact surface swhich transmits the engine torque to the wheels. Every bolt/stud joint has a minimum torque level as well as a maximum. This is required to preload the bolt into its elastic limit. Simplistically the bolt behaves like a super high load spring. If undertightened there will be no preload and the joint can shake itself apart. For some applications spring washers are use to add preload. Jumping on a wheel brace to FT setting isn't good enough. Get a calibrated torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 So.. ive taken wheels on and of my cars 100's of times and never had a problem with the studs, first time i wack a curb they all snap within 50/60miles.. thats some coincidence. As for the rust on half way throught the studs.. that would happen first time i washed it... this morning in fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyW Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Elastic, plastic, Fantastic! Maybe studs should be treated as a service item perhaps? Also, any recommendations for a torque wrench? i really should invest in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewie Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Elastic, plastic, Fantastic! Maybe studs should be treated as a service item perhaps? Also, any recommendations for a torque wrench? i really should invest in one. The ones we use on our assembly, test and development are Snap-On. They cost a fortune! But the important bit is they get calibrated every month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyW Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 The ones we use on our assembly, test and development are Snap-On. They cost a fortune! But the important bit is they get calibrated every month. But the question is, can you nick me one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewie Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 But the question is, can you nick me one? Strange you should say because last week our Yank owners announced they're closing down our UK site and transferring all engineering, design, development, A&T to Germany. I'm sure there'll be sheds loads of stuff to be rid of. I'll get you a two man torque wrench to stick in your boot. It's about the 2 m long and weighs about 50 kgs. We use it for tightening 200 mm a/f nuts. No chance of undertightening yer nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt _Aero top_ Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 200 mm nuts , thats baby stuff - i served my time ( apprenticeship ) on stuff that size ..... lol its all big stuff , someone must do a uprated stud made of a higher grade . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_controller Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 that happand to me in my old renault megane coupe, probably would have done me a favour if the wheel come off, the amount that car cost me was crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiffy Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 lucky boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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