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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Its cold outside.......sod that its cold inside too


Daston

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Ahh just dropped my bro home (40mile round trip) and my heaters arnt working too well, if they are directed to the screen then the drivers side vent is warm (and changes temp when I turn the nob). However if I switch it to face or face/feet then it blows cold air or emits loot warm air on lower settings.

 

Any ideas sounds to like the controls or is this the dreaded matrix? (I mean the heater on not the whole computer generated prison)

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Right been searching the forum abit about the matrix

 

I am thinking that it could be either an air bubble or blockage (I pray I am right) I think this as there seems to be a few other problems that I have over looked.

 

1) Cold start RPM is around the 1.9k-2.5k figure this seems too high

2) Warm Idle sometimes drops to 400rpm and is very lumpy

3) there is warm air there but its rather loot warm and only if it dosnt come out on setting 3 or higher.

4) wird one this but the foot well heaters are not blowing at all no mater what setting they are on.

 

Any further ideas would be good. This always happens to me my cars must know that they are going to be part ex'ed or sold and so die on me!

 

I am half harted to go to the nissan dealer down the road and buy a brand new 350z!

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Right guys ended up taking the car into town so thought I would have a feel around when I got back, theres 2 big pipes that go into the fire wall close to each other one starts off as a metel pipe and then changes to rubber the other one is rubber that sits on top of the engine with foam blocks. Take it there are from the heater? Any way the one ontop of the engine was very hot could touch it for a second or 2 before having to remove my hand. The Other pipe was also hot but not as hot as the other one. Is this good sign of a block and shall I flush it? Or am I a numpty and holding the wrong pipes?

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:D

Might be talking shit but sounds like air lock to me

 

from an earlier post by ardsaliah

 

The easiest way I've found of bleeding the coolant system is to let the expansion tank do the hard work. You have to fill the expansion tank about 3/4 full of coolant, and when the system warms up air gets vented into the expansion tank as it's pushed out the rad and it bubbles off, and when the system cools down it sucks coolant back into the system from the expansion tank. With an 'overfull' tank it always has fluid to suck back in. About 2 or 3 cycles like this and your airlocks will be gone, but remember to have the heater on full heat so that the heater matrix is actually in the loop, and you may get some coolant sprayed out of the expansion tank, which is normal for this procedure and nothing to worry about.

 

Rich

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