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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Another single build! PHR street kit


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Thanks for the update mate - any chance of seeing a dyno sheet or some HP numbers?

 

Haven't updated this thread for a while but I thought I'd add a little overview of my experiences/problems.

 

1- The PHR Street kit oil return did not fit on my Jap spec rhd car due to the steering rack. I bought a 60 degree aerospace 10an female hose fitting hoping that it would clear but it didn't (-10JIC Doubleswivel- Aeroquip http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Female_60o_fitting_69.html).

The oil kit comes with a mounting bracket (to fit to the block) and a straight male to male (10AN to NPTF I believe). This male male adapter sticks out too far. I actually botched this using a 90 degree female to male adapter from B&Q and haven't seen any leaks.

I believe the best way around this problem is to buy a 45 or 90 degree 10AN to 1/2inch NPTF male to male adapter which will screw into the PHE adapter plate. Think auto have some.

FBM2024

-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium

http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF__AN823___166.html

MMA98-10-8

-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium

http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF_173.html

 

 

I have heard that another way to get round this problem is turning one of the subframe bolts upside down however I didn't fancy doing this.

 

2- Turbo exhuast pipe. This will not fit the Jap cars and on my kit the exhuast pipe actually hit the screamer pipe. This didn't matter to me too much as I had a different exhuast pipe made up however it's worth checking when the kit arrives.

 

3- Remember to fit fuel resistant rubber o-rings to your injectors/fpr/rail etc. I didn't and it took me an age to take it all off and refit them properly. I got mine from http://www.speedflow.co.uk/z510.htm

 

4 - spark plugs. When starting and tuning initially don't use iridiums. I rendered a brand new set of IK24 useless in about 50 miles from overfuelling. Get some cleanable ones will sorting out initial maps and then put the good ones in for fine tuning.

 

5 - AEM ecu's are complicated for a begginner! Living on the south coast there are not many specialist tuners around and exceptionally few that can map AEM's. I ended up driving a long way to pay for mine to get mapped and when I got the car back it still didn't idle with some very weird AEM idle settings.

Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money..........

In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity.

 

6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM.

After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out!

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(Who mapped your AEM and why is the scale off? )

 

sorry but I don't want to name names. I know it's good for people to know and if anyone really needs to know I don't mind talking via PM or other but posts complaining can go a bit crazy and I don't want to be involved in that.

I believe the scale is off because it's not set up with the correct MAP sensor settings. It's got a load offset and different scalar to the standard settings for a 3.5 bar aem sensor.

 

 

(And that doesnt account for labour costs - which would apply in my case - how much labour is involved (approx) ? )

 

I don't really know how long it would take a skilled mechanic to do all the work, it's taken me nearly a year working every other weekend.

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As mentioned before you are wasting half the map resolution with the current load breakpoint setup, the RPM breakpoints look good.

 

There is no boost fuel cut set.

 

Looking in your garage you have a manual box but the gear ratios have not been setup and the autobox control is still enabled, this doesnt cause any issues but is nice to have it setup.

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Cheers, I've decided to start again with my map. I'll post up my progress. I think it would be good for AEM users to have some more stuff on this site. The AEM site is OK but not too 'new user' friendly. I appreciate this forums help and hopefully I'll be able to help others at some point.

 

As mentioned before you are wasting half the map resolution with the current load breakpoint setup, the RPM breakpoints look good.

 

There is no boost fuel cut set.

 

Looking in your garage you have a manual box but the gear ratios have not been setup and the autobox control is still enabled, this doesnt cause any issues but is nice to have it setup.

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I’m trying to sort out the battery offset for the SARD 650cc Hi-Imp injectors I have fitted. The required info is not in the AEM set up wizard.

From the AEM forum I have found that people have tried the following settings:

 

2550 2550 2550 2550 2520 2030 1750 1500 ???? 1250 1080

 

2550 2550 2550 2290 2100 1890 1730 1620 1500 1420 1300

 

I haven’t found anything definitive yet. I did have someone else’s map who was using the SARD 650s but it’s at my mates house at the moment who is away on holiday.

Has anyone else used these injectors with an AEM?

 

I have also heard that the SARD 650 injectors are the same as the Denso and Holley injectors. Has anyone heard of this?

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Richard, do you know exactly which adaptor you ordered from Think Auto, as I'd like to buy the adaptor ready for when my kit turns up next week. Cheers :)

 

I ordered a 45 degree female hose end as I thought this would bolt onto the staight male to male connection that came with the pick. From the pic of my car you can see that I've fitted a 90 degree fitting to the adapter plate which is a bit of a botch. I cannot advise you to do it this way.

I believe your best bet is to mimic the kit that Homer had on his car. This will involve buying a 45 degree male to male adapter. I believe the sizes of this are 10An to 1/2 inch NPTF. I wonder if Homer could confirm this.

I have stolen some pics from Homer's build thread (I hope you don't mind Homer) to hopefully explain

DSC01365.JPG

forum4vh7.jpg

forum21hq1.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just been looking at my map trying to figure out some of the problems.

I see in the ignition phasing options, ignition sync is set to 0.09. Is this correct? On the aem forum they have always said not to mess with the ignition sync.

 

Also the coil dwell vs batt volts table has been altered compared to every other map i have seen. Is this to do with the HKS dli? Has anyone with a DLI and aem adjusted their coil dwell settings and if so how.

many thanks for any help

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I see in the ignition phasing options, ignition sync is set to 0.09. Is this correct? On the aem forum they have always said not to mess with the ignition sync.

 

Also the coil dwell vs batt volts table has been altered compared to every other map i have seen. Is this to do with the HKS dli? Has anyone with a DLI and aem adjusted their coil dwell settings and if so how.

many thanks for any help

 

Can you email me your cal file to look at?

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Can you email me your cal file to look at?

 

my cal is on post 104. It's been slightly modified since it was posted (scales etc) but the settings for coil dwell and ignition sync I believe are the same.

 

my coil dwell looks very similar if not identical to yours which I guess means it is right.

 

what do you have as far as ignition sync is concerned?

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