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Another single build! PHR street kit


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Just looking into the timing of my car. Please correct me if I am wrong:

to set up the timing on the supe correctly the crank pulley mark should be set to the 0 degree mark (tdc) and the cam marks to the corresponding grooves on the cam cover.

 

in my pics the crank pulley is slightly off. does any one know how much this would put my timing off by? would it just be the degrees shown on the markings or does that amplify through the rev range etc? many thanks

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The belt looks fine to me. I remember changing my cam belt and if you turn the crank pulley so it lines up perfectly you will find that the cam pulleys will have moved so little that you prob won't notice it at all.

 

BTW, Have just read through this whole thread from start to finish. Very nice I have to say, but my question is, have you ever had any experience of mapping before or are you completely new to it???

Only reason I ask is that I would love to be able to map my own car to a certain extent but I know that I could completely destroy something if I don't know what I'm doing. I wouldn't want to try just incase.

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cheers for the info.

I haven’t had any experience no which does sound dodgy. I have been getting help from other forum members though and tbh I won’t be attempting any of mapping for ‘driving’ conditions. I have really just been having a look at the start up and idle so that hopefully when it comes to getting the car properly mapped it will be a lot easier!

I have also wanted to learn about the aem just so that I know what I’m looking at :)

 

 

The belt looks fine to me. I remember changing my cam belt and if you turn the crank pulley so it lines up perfectly you will find that the cam pulleys will have moved so little that you prob won't notice it at all.

 

BTW, Have just read through this whole thread from start to finish. Very nice I have to say, but my question is, have you ever had any experience of mapping before or are you completely new to it???

Only reason I ask is that I would love to be able to map my own car to a certain extent but I know that I could completely destroy something if I don't know what I'm doing. I wouldn't want to try just incase.

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  • 1 month later...

Now that I'm a trader I can own up. I went and saw the car but uploaded a new re-scaled map, changed a few other settings and improved the off boost ignition but not a lot could really be done as I don't advocate road mapping this time of year.

 

Last time I spoke to Rich he was going to bring it to me when I've opened up, so hoping this is still the case - be good to see this perform properly and in time for when the weather changes :)

 

Incidentally, Rich did a good job on the idle :thumbs:

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Now that I'm a trader I can own up. I went and saw the car but uploaded a new re-scaled map, changed a few other settings and improved the off boost ignition but not a lot could really be done as I don't advocate road mapping this time of year.

 

Last time I spoke to Rich he was going to bring it to me when I've opened up, so hoping this is still the case - be good to see this perform properly and in time for when the weather changes :)

 

Incidentally, Rich did a good job on the idle :thumbs:

 

Yup still the case, just trying to clear the credit card before 2nd Jan!

The car hasn't moved in a good few weeks as the battery became U/S. I think I'll just replace it with a Halfords one

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Just FYI guys to fit the Street Turbo Kit to the RHD cars better we have changed some items in the kit and will be included for any J-spec order. Included the 45 degree bend needed for the Drain Line.

 

Thanks for the advise on your car's as we dont have them here but we try to make it best for everyone. If there seems to be a problem anywhere else feel free to PM and I will get it corrected.

 

Cheers,

 

Joe

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Hi Joe

 

I had a problem with the IC pipe (fit HKS Type R FMIC) hitting the steering rack, I know a few others who have had the same problem. I got the pipe cut and re-welded so as to clear the rack, pics attached.

 

I also fitted one of your 4" down pipe/mid pipes and had a problem with it hitting the sub frame, I don't have any pics of this, but I was able to get it to fit with some gentle persuasion with a hammer. I was using the pipes with a HKS manifold/GT35R, so this may have something to do with this

 

cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...
Just FYI guys to fit the Street Turbo Kit to the RHD cars better we have changed some items in the kit and will be included for any J-spec order. Included the 45 degree bend needed for the Drain Line.

 

Thanks for the advise on your car's as we dont have them here but we try to make it best for everyone. If there seems to be a problem anywhere else feel free to PM and I will get it corrected.

 

Cheers,

 

Joe

 

If only I had started my project 14 months later :)

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Just read through all of this. Whats the £damage so far?

 

a bit scary. rough totals:

 

PHR street kit with delivery and vat about £2300

Decat pipes £25.75

AEM + 3.5bar sensor + walbro fuel pump + Aeromotive FPR £1666.15

IK24s X 2 sets (fouled the first lot) £140

HKS DLI £256.73

injectors £250

fuel proof o-rings £9

Gaskets, fuel+oil filter + coolant £160

Silicone hosing £47

FPR fitting kit £105

Exhuast welding £100

Misc clips, wiring £20

various oil changes £150

a crap map that needs re-doing £400

 

somewhere around £5855 total :( and not finished yet

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The *throttle inj corr* is a correction factor that is based against what percentage the TPS is open. What you have along the bottom axis is the percentage of the TPS i.e 0% closed, 100% fully open. (p.s make sure you have the tps setup properly)

 

You then add the extra correction trim if you find that the more fuel is needed on slight opening of the throttle.

 

Most supra's are ok with this all set to 0 but i most of the time find myself tweaking it to the engine characteristics

 

never seen one you need to pull fuel though unless it has a wild Acceleration enrichment setup.

 

I must add also that the aem ecu is not really an ecu i would want to be playing with when trying to play with ECU's and using other peoples settings on your car etc is only a reciepe for Disaster.

 

Ryan

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The *throttle inj corr* is a correction factor that is based against what percentage the TPS is open. What you have along the bottom axis is the percentage of the TPS i.e 0% closed, 100% fully open. (p.s make sure you have the tps setup properly)

 

You then add the extra correction trim if you find that the more fuel is needed on slight opening of the throttle.

 

Most supra's are ok with this all set to 0 but i most of the time find myself tweaking it to the engine characteristics

 

never seen one you need to pull fuel though unless it has a wild Acceleration enrichment setup.

 

I must add also that the aem ecu is not really an ecu i would want to be playing with when trying to play with ECU's and using other peoples settings on your car etc is only a reciepe for Disaster.

 

Ryan

 

Cheers for the info. I'm not really modding the ECU much but just trying to understand it better. The map I am looking at I paid £400 quid for and it was rubbish and dangerous. It soon to be properly mapped ;) I'm just looking at the idle really.

My car has a negative value so it is leaning the car out at low throttle, another dodgey discovery.

From the AEM forum it looks like it is used in boost comp maps.

I did some research on the AEM forum too and they say its not good to use on turbo cars as you can get high load situations on part throttle.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Just thought I'd update this thread :)

 

Couple of issues with this car, one of which was fluctuating boost and poor boost control. I believe I have found the cause, the diaphragm inside the wastegate was kinked along one edge where it rests against the wg body. This meant that the plunger could not freely move up and down. I will post a pic when I get a minute.

 

So, have spoken to Joe at PHR and we are arranging for a new wastegate to come.

 

Second problem that has developed is causing some head scratching. When the engine is up to operating temp, the engine will occasionally stall. I held the revs at 2k to see if it would do it again and yes it does, the revs drop by 500rpms or so, the engine stumbles for a second and then it's fine again. Even more strangely, if you watch the AEMPro software, it almost seems as if it completely pauses for a split second !

 

Very odd. I going to try the AEM in my car tomorrow morning, rule out the ECU first. Then I will break out the oscilloscope and start testing crank\cam sensors etc etc. Will also check wiring to the ECU, especially earths and so on. Tis a strange one though :confused:

 

Otherwise the car is coming along fine, all mapped to low load so just the power runs to do. Just need to sort out the boost control and this electrical fault :)

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PHR street kit with delivery and vat about £2300

Decat pipes £25.75

AEM + 3.5bar sensor + walbro fuel pump + Aeromotive FPR £1666.15

IK24s X 2 sets (fouled the first lot) £140

HKS DLI £256.73

injectors £250

fuel proof o-rings £9

Gaskets, fuel+oil filter + coolant £160

Silicone hosing £47

FPR fitting kit £105

Exhuast welding £100

Misc clips, wiring £20

various oil changes £150

a crap map that needs re-doing £400

 

somewhere around £5855 total and not finished yet

 

:blink:I'd be well pleased with that!!I wish I was a welder!!:(My manifold and exh. came to about3g!!

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  • 6 months later...

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