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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Engine Upgrade Questions


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I am currently undertaking an engine upgrade and rebuild on my car, and after talking to many people and reading many different reviews, decided on the T67 DBB turbo kit from Boostlogic. I have purchased all of the bits and bobs from Dusty and have to say he has been top draw with all his advice etc. Just got a few questions and if anyone can answer, it would be good. Friends who are helping are now questioning whether I should be buying forged pistons and rods? What sort of boost pressure can the standard rods and pistons withstand? I am replacing all of the bottom end bolts with uprated ARP parts. A little run down of all the other parts I have purchased are as follows:

 

HKS 1.6mm Head gasket, Aeromotive FPR, Greddy 720cc Injectors, HKS fuel rail, 2nd Walbro fuel pump, GReddy Emanage including ignition and injector harnesses. Other parts such as the new oil pump, water pump and cam belt kit I have purchased over here from Toyota.

 

I don't really want to be having to do this job again at any stage, so any advice would be good. I also plan to be runnning water injection when it is done too, and I know this makes a difference to the boost pressure you can safely run. I was aiming ultimately for around the 600RWHP mark, but am I being slightly over optimistic?

 

Many Thanks Peeps

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Put a proper stand alone ECU on it, and pay someone that is intimate with said ecu to map it. Any engine is only as good as its map, and IMO you need a proper ecu to do turbo engines any justice at all. If you are happy with a genuine 550 BHP at the flywheel, and it's a LOT of power if they are proper engine dyno horses, and not rolling road magic ones, the stock internals will be fine. I'd run a stock headgasket, stock rail and stock regulator myself, but as you are on consumerism bout.... :)

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i suppose if your taking the sump and head off to fit the studs and head gasket i suppose it could be a good "futureproof" thing to install while your there.

 

The whole engine is out and appart, and the bottom end has gone away for a full lighten and balance, and the head is away for a full port and polish with the valves being swirl polished too. Just thinking before the guy makes a start on the balance, whether I should be replacing bits :search:

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If you've stripped the engine down anyway, fit lighter internals.

 

CP Pistons 86.5mm

Carillo Rods

 

If you hadn't opened it I'd have said leave it alone - other stock engines can handle a T67 so yours can too.

 

As for the ECU...AEM/HKS V Pro/Autronic SM4/Motec M800...will all do nicely.

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If I was building an engine, the first (and probably only) person I'd ask for advice would be Chris Wilson.

 

Just take notice of what he says ;)

 

That's very kind of you, but there is plenty of good advice from others on many things, in fairness. I am 100% sure though, that given a reasonable budget, the first thing to do is decide on a proper ecu and have it wired up and mapped professionally to suit well matched mods.

 

Decide on a realsitic power output at a given RPM, choose turbo(s) and cams to make this power and GOOD TORQUE at as low an RPM as possible, yet give the top end you desire for pub talk. That means as small a turbo as will give this in its efficiency range, and cams well matched to the power goals. Fuel it simply, using as much stock stuff as possible, as Aeroquip hose, its fittings and stuff are hellishly expensive. Be realistic if you have an auto. The last thing you need is torque mising at low RPM's, it will cripple the car and you will wish you hadn't started modding when you find out just how bad an auto is around town with lairy cams and a big turbo. A high stall convertor is strictly drag race only, IMO. For street use I wouldn't give on house room, they are fuel guzzling, noisy and a total PITA on the street, IMO.

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