Steve W2 Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Pleased you got it sorted dude:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Originally posted by Castle BLOODY HELL that works so well, nice bit of tape (49p) and tightened in the order in centre glove box....and not a sound!! THANKS;) glad you liked the cheap fix ......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve M Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 good ole ptfe (plumbers tape) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerotop Dave Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 I take it we're all remembering to do up the big bolt in the centre too??? (no one has mentioned that). It makes a bolt go across into the windscreen top (actually, it may bolt back into the back as well, I never looked) I never have to tighten mine up and I don't do them up that tight. I find the back ones sometimes a bit tricky to actually locate. Once it's all in place though I do them all up by hand (in correct, cubbyhole-advised order) and then go round again with the spanner for a final tweak. Judging by the amount of Japanese writing accompanying the diagram I'm assuming getting the order right is quite important. Personally I've had more problems getting the roof into the correct place in the boot than with taking the thing on and off. I can't help but feel if they'd made the boot about 2 inches wider across the back it would have slotted in waaaaaaay easier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Originally posted by 200SX Boy I can't help but feel if they'd made the boot about 2 inches wider across the back it would have slotted in waaaaaaay easier... so true ........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Just weld up the roof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted June 4, 2004 Share Posted June 4, 2004 Originally posted by Scooter so there is! i never saw that before...... order per the diagram is centre then drivers front pass front drivers rear pass rear still think it might need tightening after a little while, as i remember DangerousBrain saying he couldn't even fit his roof in the top one time when he was on uneven ground, so i presume you could get this effect to a lesser degree and therefore screw up the roof tight only for it to be loose soon after driving away. Yep it was me with the roof not fitting when i had the front wheels up a bit of an embankment. The reason behind the order of torquing the bolts is pretty simple. The front 2 are in a fixed position tightening vertically so when these are done up they hold the roof firm in relation to the A pillar. The rear 2 however are torqued in the horizontal position so theoretically they should pull the car back into positiion (by this I mean- clearly if I couldn't fit my roof in the hole then the chassisdoes slightly bend, in this case up at the front and down in the middle in a U shape. If the car did the opposite in an n shape then the rear points would be further away and require pulling fwds to tighten) If you tighten the rears first and you are in either U or n or even twisted then the fronts will be miss-aligned and over time you will nadge them by unevenly wearing the threads as you attempt to grolly them in. I think the centre one is just a temporary lock to hold the roof in place whilst away from the vehicle parked or for temporary driving because its only a spigot in a hole I can't see it lending much structural integrity. PTFE plumbers tape will take the slack out of worn threads hence prevent them working loose and to a certain degree act like nyloc self locking stiff nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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