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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Help With Brakes


Paul Laing

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Cheers Syed & Matt H, seems like i have another problem with the brakes, which makes my car totally off the road.....for now!

 

Theres a leak on the front caliper, where the hose goes to the caliper, the thread inside the caliper has been threaded slightly at the top. Theres not loads of fluid coming out but there is wet there, i don't really want a new 240 quid caliper from Toyota but oviously this needs sorting. It's got quite a good bit as most of the threads still on, it's just the top where it's not gripping, my dads out now to get some lock tight and i'm also going to try wrapping the nut in tape, not sure what the name is but that thin white tape. See if that stops the leak, problems problems problems!!!

 

I don't know who did these brakes last time, but i think it was a Monkey! Pins were seized in all calipers, total nightmare!

 

Paul

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Paul, sorry but got to go against you on this one.

 

problems with brakes you dont drive! simple!!!

 

most little problems you can drive with but brakes are a big NO NO in my book, IMHO that is

 

The leaking caliper may explain the pull to the left though so at least some good news. :thumbs:

 

Look at that a post with some negative but helpful information :D

 

On another bad news warped my disks last night,just when i want to try and get rid of the car :baa:

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i have still got the original jap calipers and discs on mine, got car at 35k miles and now on 70k miles only changed to some cw pads.

most of time they feel fine to me, just when you get on a track you know how crap they are. paul you do seem to have troubles with your cars. my astra has had loads of things needed doing but it is an old car.

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We think we now know what the slight judder is, the old pads that were on, the compound didn't go all the way to the edge of the pad, which has caused rust to build up on the outside of the disk. The new Hawk pads go all the way to the edge of the pad and give more surface grip to the disk, so this could be where the judder is coming from.....as theres air between the disk and pad. Not much but enough maybe???

 

The pistons on each caliper are fine, and i honestly don't know how you could warp a disk, have you seen the UK disks? You could heat them up with a bloody blow torch and have difficulty warping them ;)

 

Also once the leak is sorted, not bodged!!! it'll hopefully be fine, and once the system has been bled which where doing tomorrow. Where going to use some copper stuff my dad got which you put into to make a new thread, not sure what it is but will do the trick!

 

Once again, i'm not an Engineer like my dad is, which is why i might ask questions, but i'd like to learn more about the Supra.

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Mark, my last car i had troubles with but not this one.

 

The only problems i've had with this is when Toyota mucked up the clutch/flywheel change by piercing the sump, and then the brakes which look like they have been put on by trained monkeys as mechanics as the pics were the wrong size, and they managed to thread a bolt but thats it......not loads of problems at all. 2 minor ones in 9 months :)

 

Mines a 94, yours is a 96 so does that make us both with old cars? ;) :p

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i was onabout the astra been an old car, its a shed so i would expect things to go. the supra is old but built loads better than a crappy old astra. just seeing all of your posts of troubles you having with cars. everybody has there fair share of trubles but you seem to have more than others. but you do drive it hard with all your kill storys.

 

will you have it sorted for elvington?

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Hi Monkey, i think if somethings going to go wrong then it'll go wrong on mine, i have no luck :(

 

Hopefully it'll be ok for Elvington, but i think i'll just be watching, if i can get the brakes then the boost controller in tomorrow then maybe run, but i doubt it......

 

Are you running your car mate? CRD's 1000bhp gold car is going, should be fun watching that like :) And Kevs car is running of course, hope mine will :)

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Hi Paul,

Are you saying that that the thread is stripped in the caliper?

Is this on the caliper that you removed or the other one?

 

The white tape you were saying about using to try to stop the leak is PTFE tape but it's no good for high temprature applications like brakes.

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I've got UK brakes. I warped the J-spec ones the first week I had the car! Since then, I've got through 2 sets of UK disks in less than 30,000 miles.
Matt, how do you do that? I run my car on the track and the front discs warp a little so I ease off for a lap or two and everything is fine. I can't imagine warping UK discs on the road, and believe me I can brake hard!
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Originally posted by John Packham

Matt, how do you do that? I run my car on the track and the front discs warp a little so I ease off for a lap or two and everything is fine. I can't imagine warping UK discs on the road, and believe me I can brake hard!

 

Dude you need the brembo drilled disks!

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Theres not loads of fluid coming out but there is wet there, i don't really want a new 240 quid caliper from Toyota but oviously this needs sorting.
Paul, you need to replace both front calipers. You can't mess about with marginal hydraulics, you'll lose all your front braking power and that's most of what the car has. The alternative is catastrophic failure and a big shunt.
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My jaw is quite literally scraping the floor reading this thread.

 

How can anyone be daft enough to drive a car that they know requires bleeding on the brakes?? Not wanting to be rude but that is f*cking neglegent. How would you feel if you killed someone because you didn't stop in time due to poor braking directly attributed to air in the brakes??

 

As an aside to my little outburst.

 

Brake discs can very easily be warped or hot-spotted. I did a brand new pair of front discs on another car due to my tendency of holding my car on my foot brakes instead of the handbrake. After braking your discs have heat in them. If your pads stay stationary over a specific spot IE if you stop and don't release the brake then the heat in the area around the pad to disc contact cannot escape like the rest of the disc that isn't insulated by the pads. this heat can cause hotspotting. Its not as bad as warping the entire disc but it can cause vibration. Do it enough times and the vibration gets worse.

 

Another point. When changing pads its customary to measure the discs and check to ensure even wear on it. Apparently yours has not had even wear as the new pads are contacting more surface than the old ones did. At this point the discs should have been skimmed if for no other reason than to prolong the life of the new pads.

 

If the threads are stripped that hold the pipe into the caliper then seriously a bit of copper grease or thread lock or any form of bonding is really not sensible. If you must insist on keeping the calipers and not replacing them at least have thread inserts put in them so that you know for sure the pipe won't come out.

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The car is off the road, needs a new caliper on the front, i'm just going to buy one though, not two as the other one is fine, the pistons work no probs.

 

Once again the disks are not warped, checked them today! I have never seen a UK car with warped disks so would love to see one, would take some heat to do that. On the strip at Elvington i've braked from 170 5 times one day and no sign of warping!!!

 

Warped disks, lol :p

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The car is off the road, needs a new caliper on the front, i'm just going to buy one though, not two as the other one is fine, the pistons work no probs.
Personally I would replace both calipers or you will probably experiennce brakes pulling to one side. To check your discs, you need them in situ with a dial gauge to check run-out. When you get it all sorted you'll know what we're on about.
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