Fitting Polished TT pipe work.

[DamanC]

One as obtained some nice shiney polished pipework (and so it begins) and has absolutely no real idea as to what he is doing.

 

Im guessing its just work methodically and take your time?

 

One thing that concerns me is there is an actuator attached to one of the pipes, up until now ive never seen one before Do i use me existing one or the current one, and, silly Q time, will it need to be set to what it was before? how will i know if it is, and how will i know if it isnt?

 

Any pointers out there, ive done a search to no avail, but i really am crap with this sort of thing

 

cheers

[DamanC]

While im here, whats that in its little 'house' next to the actuator? Also whats that Denso thingamy do whatsit on the right side on the bottom pipe of the second pic?

 

http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/234/imgp1217sizexi5.jpg

 

http://img468.imageshack.us/img468/4749/imgp1219sizeei3.jpg

[SupraAyf]

Damen,It is quite an easy job as long as you take it step by step. If you're not sure about the small turbo pipework then number it when you take it apart so you know which bit corresponds with its pair when putting it back together (i.e. the rubber tubing that connects to the metal piping).

 

The only major issue that you are likely to incur is that of the rear bolts that connect to the back turbo. These cars are not young anymore and the nuts & bolts are bloody difficult to get off at the best of times.

 

It looks from your photo that you can simply use the actuator on your new polished pipework so no worries there mucka!

 

EDIT: The denso bit should be the 'VSV for Air intake control valve'!

[DamanC]

Alf - thanks for the time for your reply

 

A can of WD40 and some sticky labels will be purchased tomorrow, ready for my 'attempt' friday.

[Bob]

HAve a look at TLicense's Blitz twin install guide - there's a bit about removing said pipework. I also recommend an E7 Torx socket - you can take the studs out of the turbo pipework to make it easier to take them apart / reassemble

[DamanC]

HAve a look at TLicense's Blitz twin install guide - there's a bit about removing said pipework. I also recommend an E7 Torx socket - you can take the studs out of the turbo pipework to make it easier to take them apart / reassemble

 

Cheers bob, found the turbo install guide but my God! :eek:

 

Do i have to drain my coolant or anything else for that matter?

[colsoop]

The easiest way i found to take it off was to start at the front, down by the alternator unbolt that pipe first, this then allows you to lift off the "y" pipe and just work from there, it really isn't too bad.

 

One good tip i will give you is tape up the polished pipes before you go to fit them as you are guaranteed to put a scracth on them if you don't, i did this to a chrome plated pipe i was fitting to mine i nearly cried

[Ian C]

Cheers bob, found the turbo install guide but my God! :eek:

 

Do i have to drain my coolant or anything else for that matter?

 

Yeah, it can be rather tricky getting all those pipes off

 

You don't need to drain coolant as you are only dealing with the air intake stuff.

 

Get some sticking plasters ready

 

-Ian

[DamanC]

Cheers fellas, how long do you recon it will take?

[heckler]

Cheers fellas, how long do you recon it will take?

 

took me hour and a half, several cups of coffee and 4 plasters

[DamanC]

Really, that short amount of time? It gives me hope to finishing it in a day then

[heckler]

yeah - previous day i got all the correct tools, and soaked in WD

[SupraAyf]

Cheers fellas, how long do you recon it will take?

 

Daman, if you're feeling really ambitious then take your turbo heat shield off once you've removed your pipework mate (just 4 quick nuts/bolts and REAL easy to do). You can then spend a couple of hours polishing that up to get a more affetive background to your pipes when you refit them:)

[Bob]

Excluding the rear inlet pipe for turbos 2, I can now remove the pipework in around 10 minutes. Unless you're swapping the vacuum pipes over as well, leave the pipes at the back attached and just move everything out of the way - reattaching the EGBV and actuator pipes can be a right bastard unless you have tiny Jeremy Beadle hands

[colsoop]

Daman, if you're feeling really ambitious then take your turbo heat shield off once you've removed your pipework mate (just 4 quick nuts/bolts and REAL easy to do). You can then spend a couple of hours polishing that up to get a more affetive background to your pipes when you refit them:)

 

I wouldn't just polish it as it will grow a ginger beard very quickly this time of year and you wont be able to clean it properly due to the heat.

[SupraAyf]

I wouldn't just polish it as it will grow a ginger beard very quickly this time of year and you wont be able to clean it properly due to the heat.

 

The expert has spoken so I shall listen Sir!

[DamanC]

Thanks foir the pointers fellas, they came in handy

 

I started about midday and have finished tidying up, i recon ive been at it a good 4 hours but had many a cuppas and smokes while scratching my head working out what was next. Its cold and dark now so decided to call it a day.

 

Unfortunately my 4 hours has only see me get a little further than this:

 

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7712/imgp1231sizerg2.jpg

 

I spent a good two hours trying to remove the two bolts from the rear inlet pipe, (a new techie word i now know the meaning of ) what a PITA! hardest part was trying to get the damn socket on and knowing it was on, you can imagine my grin when i felt the click as it turnt that 1mm. I shortly celerbrated with another cuppa.

 

The pipe with the actuator is now fixed in place, and one of the bolts is loosely holding that damn rear inlet pipe on, first job of tomorrow will be to secure that. Talk about starting with the hardest

 

One final question is have you guys affixed your heater pipes back to the rear inlet pipe? I see no reason for it to be attached as it simply sits where it wants to be and they are tricky fixings to get at.

 

ive took a snap of my front turbo, just because i could not the greatest of pics, but are stock jap turbos ment to be like this? Perhaps i was expecting them to look like a redish ceramic plant pot

 

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3474/imgp1229sizeyc5.jpg

[DamanC]

Ah yes, they are normal Hybrids would have been nice

[INDYPWR]

i just installed my polished piping last week.....i will provide pics soon.

[SupraAyf]

I shortly celerbrated with another cuppa.

 

Daman - much deserved mucka!

 

One final question is have you guys affixed your heater pipes back to the rear inlet pipe?

 

Always good to stick stuff back where you removed it from but there are certain parts of a Supe engine bay that do not require so much detail - this is one of them. A simple tie-cack will do, otherwise, leave it alone as the pipes are jammed in position in that area!

 

but are stock jap turbos ment to be like this? Perhaps i was expecting them to look like a redish ceramic plant pot

 

It Looks in great condition to me Sir! You're OK mucka!

[DamanC]

Thank Andrew

 

Im off to finish it off, wish me luck

[SupraAyf]

Thank Andrew

 

Im off to finish it off, wish me luck

 

No luck needed - it seems that you are a natural. I'll bring my car over to your house next weekend so you can work on my single conversion for me!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nah - can't afford that at the moment I'm afraid!

[DamanC]

Funny you shouls say that, i was thinking to myself "well i suppose you take that bit out, move that and add that to do a turbo conversion"

 

Anyway, i hope everthing is right, i just have to consult the bible aka the forum.

 

Question one: At the same time i fitted one of those 'performace' airfilters. Apexi Jobbie to be exact. Firsly i noticed you can hear it suck even on just idle now im fairly sure this is ment to be. Exhaust note doesnt seem to have changed much but one thing i did notice is the turbo whistle is a little more pronounced. Is this normal? Before, my HKS SSQV BOV used to 'flutter' everso slightly when at low revs (2k-4kish) and letting of slightly. Now this is very pronounced and alot more like the big singles you see but just quiter, again is this normal?

 

Question 2: while enjoying my pronounced flutter i thought id experiment, i was stuck in traffic at the time and had it manaully selected in gear 2 (auto box). I held slightly under 4k rpm for about 5 seconds and my engine light popped up with its friend the central handrake light. Now tbh i dont think i have ever held around 4k rpm before so im not sure if it would have done it before, however i do have the old error code 42 turn up when i hit around 80/90 leptons regardless of rpm. Could it be related or have a feck something? I guess i should go check my diagnostics but its cold and dark so ill wait until tomorrow.......

[DamanC]

For quick ref, my mods

 

Stock TT setup

Double decat, 1.2bar restrictor ring

Greedy profec 2 thingamy bob boost controller running 1.2BAR

Denso IK 24's

Walbro fuel pump

Thor FCD

HKS SSQV BOV

Now added apexi induction kit

[SupraAyf]

Damam,

 

Q1: No problems, sounds good there so nothing to worry about.

 

EDIT: Just re-check to ensure that your air intake system is air tight - you don't want any 'unfiltered' leaks in that department!

 

Q2: This may help - Error Code 42 is a common fault:

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=89041

 

and

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=72588&highlight=code.

 

Perhaps you should start afresh by unplugging the power and ECU in order to allow the system to refresh itself. Then try the above fault finding threads if the EC 42 continues.! You've got nothing to loose and it won't damage your system!