Gazzawu Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Followup to this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=90016 Took the car to another local garage and its the front wheel bearing coming out. So got that changed and problem fixed. I told the first garage that i thought it was the wheel bearing but they insisted the noise was worn brake pads. Idiots! Went to Halfords with my old battery and there is no charge whatsoever. The 1st garage actually tried to jump start my car but was unsuccessful and one of the fuse kept on sparking out. Any guys know what they might have done that actually messed it up? Its actually the recommended Halfords calcium maintenance free battery.Battery was within its warranty so got a brand new one as replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Thats all a bit of a jumble to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Followup to this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=90016 Took the car to another local garage and its the front wheel bearing coming out. So got that changed and problem fixed. I told the first garage that i thought it was the wheel bearing but they insisted the noise was worn brake pads. Idiots! Went to Halfords with my old battery and there is no charge whatsoever. The 1st garage actually tried to jump start my car but was unsuccessful and one of the fuse kept on sparking out. Any guys know what they might have done that actually messed it up? Its actually the recommended Halfords calcium maintenance free battery.Battery was within its warranty so got a brand new one as replacement Maybe they connected the jump leads the wrong way round? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzawu Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 installed new battery and reconnected hids. all working fine and car started up ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Somewhere, sometime ago i read a "how to" on jump starting cars, it insisted you should always put the earth to the engine hook or the like. I have absolutely no idea why this is? the usual way always worked for me lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzawu Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 new problem found!! passenger side electric window is now busted. I guess the fuse for that must have busted as well. Does anyone know where abouts this fuse goes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzawu Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 ooops window lock on. never mind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Somewhere, sometime ago i read a "how to" on jump starting cars, it insisted you should always put the earth to the engine hook or the like. I have absolutely no idea why this is? the usual way always worked for me lol. No amazing technical reason. Rather than connecting a lead from a good power source onto a terminal that then has to travel through another cable. You get a better connection by going directly to the engine. Hope you know what I mean. I've just re-written that three times and it still doesn't look right! I'm tired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Black Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Q: Its possible to spike your ECU by having a jump start is it not guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 It IS possible, but Toyota have built the ECU very robustly. I know of someone that tried to jump start his car from a booster pack switched to 24v.... All it did was blow a fuse. As soon as he replaced the fuse and switched it back to 12v it started perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 ...I know of someone that tried to jump start his car from a booster pack switched to 24v.... All it did was blow a fuse. ... that's good to know Matt. Nuking the ECU is always at the back of my mind when jump leads are involved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Somewhere, sometime ago i read a "how to" on jump starting cars. It insisted you should always put the earth to the engine hook or the like. I have absolutely no idea why this is? The usual way always worked for me lol.Because batteries emit hydrogen. The final connection should be made away from the battery so that there is no risk that a spark will cause an explosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Yeah, that's probably it - explosive fumes. Positives first, then earths. Not sure how this is relevant to modern, sealed batteries, but I guess we can't be too careful eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 I used to know a guy who started one of the leading UK aftermarket ecu and associated bits recon companies. Of say 100 ecu's that came in for "repair" on average 90 were perfectly OK. Sometimes contacts were corroded on the ecu or loom plug, sometimes the problem was simply misdiagnosed. Of the few that *were* buggered I think 99.9% were Lucas EFI ones ! Modern ecus are bullet proof as far as reverse battery polarity is concerned, and short of flashing the car to the high tension national grid, pretty much immune to spiking. Body shops raeely disconnect ecu's nowadays when TIG or MIG welding, for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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