Digsy Posted August 6, 2001 Share Posted August 6, 2001 Guys, Forgive me for briefly resurrecting an old topic, but I finally managed to get through to JIC's "conversions guy" last week, and I promised I would post my findings here. So I am... JIC use an external garage for their conversion work. The guy there was very helpful and knowledgeable. I'll keep his name and number secret so that he doesn't get innundated with direct calls, but I'm sure Tim or Steve would be happy to refer you to him if you have a teachnical query that they cannot answer themselves. To cut to the chase, when dealing with a freshly-imported car, JIC will by default convert the speedo and odo to mph and miles respectively using a single speed divider unit. Officianados of Pete Betts' website and Ash fans will know that convering the odo in this way will also delimit the car, but there are a host of other side effects as well. These can be worked around by selectively re-applying the unconverted speed signal to the PAS, spoiler, etc. This was not discussed directly, but I got the impression that the "stock" JIC conversion does not do this. No mention of using a separate SLD was made. I was also told that if I only wanted the speedo converted and the car left un-delimited it would not be a problem. This would allow me to fit an HSK SLD myself later without having to undo the original work done by JIC. Obviously if JIC are re-selling an imported car with a previous UK history the conversion / delimiting may have been done differently. HTH. Darren P.S. I turned up one other morsel or information about foglights which is in a seperate thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted August 21, 2001 Author Share Posted August 21, 2001 A*se!!! I rang JIC yesterday just in time to miss them converting my car. We got some wires crossed (no pun intended) and they *did* wire the divided signal into the ECU, although they remembered to leave the odo as standard. I politley but firmly asked them to put the ECU connection back to "standard". I guess they will have started it and shunted it around their yard in this state. Do you think any lasting damage will have been done, or any error codes recorded in the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 You can easily check for error codes when you get the car. It may have been something the ECU picked up. But as the "fault" is not something that is present all the time, if there is something stored, it's simply a matter of pulling the fuse for 30 seconds or so and it should go away. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 No, it's fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted August 21, 2001 Author Share Posted August 21, 2001 Ash AND Paul at the same time! Talk about *service*!! Guh! You guys are the greatest - thanks!! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted August 21, 2001 Share Posted August 21, 2001 Quote: from Ash on 12:15 pm on Aug. 21, 2001[br] You can easily check for error codes How easily? What do you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 You simply connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic socket under the following conditions: Throttle closed Transmission neutral Air-con off IGN off Now short the terminals............. Switch IGN to ON If all is clear, the check-engine warning light sould flash about 4 times per second. If it flashes unevenly, then it's telling you a fault code. Engine codes are denoted by 2 numbers. The first number is given by the same number of blinks of the check-engine light, then there is an off time, followed by the number of blinks pertaining to the second number. So error code "42" for example, would give 4 flashes then off for a couple of seconds followed by 2 flashes. Then there is a lull for several seconds and repeat. To clear an error-code you remove EFI number 1 fuse for greater than 10 seconds. (EFI 1 is the second fuse down of the 2 EFI fuses, i.e. the one furthest from the engine.) There is a second error reporting function that can be used for nasty intermittent faults that are often difficult to trace. This mode can give you error-codes on the move, as it were. It is activated by shorting TE2 and E1, under the same conditions. Then you go for a drive in order to simulate the conditions of whatever error. The check-engine light displays any error codes present when the road speed is less than a certain speed. From memory it's about 6 mph. This mode saves you having to stop the car, short the terminals, etc. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Thank you Ash That simple. I thought you need something flash with a screen DOH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted August 22, 2001 Author Share Posted August 22, 2001 I thought you needed a screen too. Handy that it flashes the engine warning light instead. I may take a short length of wire and a couple of pins to JIC when I pick up my car now. Are the terminals all easily identifiable (i.e. do they have their names written next to them)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Contact identification is shown on the cover. Just make sure as Ash say's that you have the A/C off and the car in Neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted August 22, 2001 Author Share Posted August 22, 2001 Excellent! Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Quote: from Darren Blake on 9:56 am on Aug. 22, 2001[br]I thought you needed a screen too. Handy that it flashes the engine warning light instead. I may take a short length of wire and a couple of pins to JIC when I pick up my car now. Are the terminals all easily identifiable (i.e. do they have their names written next to them)? Take a lpaptop too and a moble phone link so you can send Ash any error codes. Only joking. I think it is a great idea, might delay the delivery though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 I made up a small connector today to try out the diagnostics in the car . By following Ash’s instructions to the letter, I established that my car is working OK indicated by the steady flashing engine light. Thanks again Ash, for demystifying the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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