CAMBELT PULLEY BOLT

[SBK1972]

Gents,

 

Ive tried to unscrew the nut on the cambelt pulley but it will not move.  My friend has used the toyota pulley tool but even that broke.

 

Has anyone got any suggests in how I can remove it, with out stripping the thread and screwing up the crank ???

 

HELP ???

 

SBK

[Rolec]

Come on J tell him how to do it :biggrin:

 

 

Dean..

[Guest Ash]

 

 

Yep, I will, and my method works a treat.

 

But I gotta get some work done this afternoon and I'll post something this evening or tomorrow morning.

 

Yours,

J

[Phil Wall]

The suspense is killing me :biggrin:

 

 

Anyone for tea

[Guest Ash]

 

Okay, I got a bit of a lull while I wait for some underseal to go off, so here's how it's done.........

 

First a disclaimer:  

 

You need a long three-quarter drive bar and a proper impact socket. Add extra force by lengthening the bar. Do not start bashing with heavy weights. As you apply pressure to the bar do so gently, and constantly ask yourself the question: if this bar breaks, or this bolt suddenly comes apart: am I going to fall flying backwards and crack my skull on the corner of the workbench and/or have this bar whack me in the face.

 

The nut is tightened to 239 ft lbs. You need CONSIDERABLY more torque than this to undo it.

 

I have a 4ft bar that I gently add more pressure to whilst making sure my body is balanced perfectly in position just in case. Then, at a certain point, you hear the bolt "crack". That's when you know you have it.

 

Okay, you first have to make my "special tool".

 

You need a piece of steel about 35mm wide and 6mm thick cut to a length of 65mm. Mine is cut from a length of 35x6 steel strapping bought from B&Q. Plus, you will need an M8x15mm bolt; an M8x30mm bolt; 3xM8 washers and 1xM8 nut.

 

Centrally placed along the length of the steel section you need to drill 2 x 10mm holes spaced 36mm apart.  

 

Then you need a right-angled drill (if the rads are in place, or an ordinary drill if not) and drill an 8.5mm hole in the crank pulley backing plate.

 

Look at the pulley and you see the smaller diameter front pulley where the fan-belt goes around. Behind that there is a backing plate (actually it's a harmonic balancer).

 

Look closely at the backing plate and just over half way across there is a deep ridge. The 8.5 mm hole is drilled centrally from the edge of the fan-belt pulley to the edge of the ridge.

 

What I do is take a spring-loaded automatic centre-punch and judge the half-way point. If you want to measure it the centre of the 8.5mm hole is aproximately 8.5mm from the outer edge of the fanbelt pulley. First drill a 3mm pilot, then the 8.5mm hole.

 

First you'll be drilling through ally, then some black rubber and finally the steel back.

 

Now, take a look at the air-con compressor drive pulley. About 8 'o clock to the pulley and about 4cm from the pulley's outer edge should be an unused M8 threaded hole.

 

Take the "special tool" together with the M8x15mm bolt and washer, and fit the special-tool to this threaded hole. You need the special-tool to be pointing slightly up and to the left (going behind the crank pulley). Tighten the bolt finger tight.

 

Now, rotate the crank pulley until the hole you drilled aligns with the remaining hole in the special-tool.  

 

Take the M8x30 bolt and using a washer (important) thread the bolt through the hole in the crank and the special-tool. Reach behind the pulley and fit a washer and nut.

 

Next, turn the crank pulley counter-clockwise to take up any little slack that may be present. Now gently nip up the bolt going through the crank pulley. DO NOT TIGHTEN or you will wreck your pulley. Tighten the nut and bolt finger tight, then another eigth of a turn AND NO MORE. Then nip up the bolt that is attached to the threaded hole which can just be tightened normally.

 

Okay, so you just secured your crank pulley. Next step is to undo the bolt and extract the pulley. It's a tolerance fit on the shaft so you'll need a mild puller.

 

Refitting is basically the reverse of removal.

 

Oh, what I normally do, when I get the pulley off, is to drill 3 more holes equidistant around the pulley just to make it look all nice and balanced.

 

Not that you really need to as the weight of metal removed is next to zilch. But I like my pulleys to look pretty.  

 

Any problems, don't hesitate to ask.

 

Yours,

J

 

(Edited by Ash at 6:48 pm on July 3, 2001)

[Paul Booth]

Quote: from Ash on 2:21 pm on July 3, 2001[br]

 

Yep, I will, and my method works a treat.

 

But I gotta get some work done this afternoon and I'll post something this evening or tomorrow morning.

 

Yours,

J

 

Oy! Where's the b****y oil cooler? Never mind all these distractions.

 

Underseal?????? I dread to ask what you're hiding?

 

[Guest Martin F]

Sorry is it just me, but Simon's post seems to be a bit cryptic.

 

In the first sentence he asks about the cam belt pulley, which to my knowledge is the ones attached to the cams.

 

In his second sentence he's defenitely on about the crank pulley, which we all know is a PITA.

 

So which one is it Simon???

 

 

Martin

[Guest Ash]

 

 

Sorry about that Paul.

 

I've got a MKIV in my garage-cum-workshop at the moment that went sideways into a line of trees and the front got ripped off. Had to replace both chassis-legs. Yesterday I was replacing the underseal around where the chassis-leg meets the lower bulkhead area and front floorpan. Today I start preparing the engine-bay for paint and seam-sealing the joins.

 

Yours,

J

[bens747]

I need to remove the Crank shaft pulley with the engine in the car on my automatic. Is there a special tool that locks the flywheel through the starter motor housing aperture. It would appear that compressors just aren't powerful enough for the amount of torque that this bolt is tightened with. Does Toyota hold this tool to do this job? Thanks Guys

[RobSheffield]

 

Blew the dust of that one.

 

The bolt is tightened to 239 Ft Lb's. You wont shift it with an airgun.

 

You need to borow or make a locking tool, and use a breaker. NO heat.

 

Toyota Part number on the locking tool is SST 09213-70010, 09330-0021

Edited October 12, 2008 by RobSheffield (see edit history)

[Scooter]

Does Toyota hold this tool to do this job? Thanks Guys

 

Give me a shout if you get stuck as i have a tool.

 

..............If you want to try it, an 'animal' method is to attach a 22mm impact socket and breaker bar to the nut, wedge it on the ground and crank the engine (with the distributor lead removed or efi fused pulled - basically avoid the engine actually firing).....the torque from the starter motor is usually enough to undo it.

[dan4]

buy a decent new air gun not this chocolate fudge rubbish, i have no problems

[bens747]

Give me a shout if you get stuck as i have a tool.

 

..............If you want to try it, an 'animal' method is to attach a 22mm impact socket and breaker bar to the nut, wedge it on the ground and crank the engine (with the distributor lead removed or efi fused pulled - basically avoid the engine actually firing).....the torque from the starter motor is usually enough to undo it.

 

We are hoping to do this on wednesday Scooter so any advice on how to borrow ur tool for this would be grateful am in Stanwell Heathrow my number is 07595387255 (car is Currently off the road but might be able to borrow a mates car) Thanks for ur help.

[Scooter]

ben the attach pic should help re the distributor........

 

Once the crank pulley is refitted you need to align the notch on it with the '0' on the plastic cover (12 o'clock position) and check the cam pulley notches are aligned with the bumps on the backing plate (12 o'clock again) if they aren't turn the crank nut one full rotation (so the notch is again aligned) and this time the cam pulley notches will be ok (if they are not the cambelt isn't on properly!!)

 

then you can fit the distributor as per the attached

[bens747]

Thanks mate the pulley is back on and eveything seems aligned and ok will be putting the distributor, new arm and cap tomoz .. will keep you posted ... Thanx for all ur help mate ...

[bens747]

Thanks for all ya help guys. The car is back on the road and running nice. Scott I'll give ya a call about returning ur crank shaft pulley tool. Thanx ever so much for all ur help mate ....

[den1]

Looking into the front of engine bay the crank bolt below...does it come off Normal as in a normal right-handed thread. (Push anti clockwise to remove! )...or is it a weird Left-handed thread...?

Thanks D

[Swampy442]

Its conventional, lefty loosey bolt. It will be offing tight as its torqued to 300 something Nm and then however many years of driving. You need a proper tool to lock the crank

[den1]

Thanks very much for your reply ... I have a mechanic who will be doing it but I am not too sure whether he has encountered anything like this.

I am trying to help by getting things set up

To be fair I hardly ever have used the car and must have only done 1k miles since 2008 ! But I think it needs changing anyway!

There is a holding tool on eBay...& a 22mm impact socket will be needed along with a couple of 5' breaker bars!

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Harmonic-Damper-Pulley-Holding-Crankshaft-Crank-Holder-Tool-for-Lexus-Toyo-3-0/114059818566?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3D3c61e87d0945456f8881ba8413b38930%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D114059818566%26itm%3D114059818566%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

Edited April 15, 2020 by den1 (see edit history)

[clay]

and 6ft scaffold pole.

[den1]

and 6ft scaffold pole.

Christ....It's grown by a foot already

[Marty]

There is always this method too...

 

[Thomas.B]

Just a little quick-tip.

 

Unscrew the gearbox cover underneith the car and just use a tool to keep that in place, pulley bolt comes off a charm

[Dnk]

Just a little quick-tip.

 

Unscrew the gearbox cover underneith the car and just use a tool to keep that in place, pulley bolt comes off a charm

 

Agreed

[herbiemercman]

Give me a shout if you get stuck as i have a tool.

 

..............If you want to try it, an 'animal' method is to attach a 22mm impact socket and breaker bar to the nut, wedge it on the ground and crank the engine (with the distributor lead removed or efi fused pulled - basically avoid the engine actually firing).....the torque from the starter motor is usually enough to undo it.

Hi Scooter, I struggled some weeks back when i tried to remove the crank pulley, so just some gentle heat applied around the center section and then a 25mm diam. bar 600mm long located in the chassis, then crank the engine, works a treat, but as you point out, disconnect the HT lead on the dizzy. Herbie.